snapped off brake bleeder

[gatorman21218]

well it was stuck so i put some heat on it, then a big ol wrench. Well I got half of it out anyways. How do I get the other half out? Should I buy a whole new setup back there or can I drill and tap it? This is on the rear (sterling 10-1/4, srw)

 

[Goofyexponent]

Wheel cylinders are cheap enough.... I would replace it!

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Wheel cylinders are cheap enough.... I would replace it!

x2.

For what they cost it's not worth the hassle to fight it out.

 

[gatorman21218]

Where is the best place to get them? I might have to do all four corners

 

[NMB2]

you dont have wheel cylinders in the front, you have calipers... quite a bit more expensive.

I would just go down to autozone or the like. Doesnt really matter

 

[Goofyexponent]

If were me, I would start soaking the bleeders on the calipers NOW if you want to bleed them in a couple days. Keep them soaked in penetrating fluid and try them. No luck, use a little heat and try it again...hopefully they all come out ok other than the one that broke off already.

I was reading your other thread, it sounds like you are having a rough go at the hydroboost swap.

 

[gatorman21218]

Yeah man it is one thing after another. I started last saturday. Finished disassembly Sunday. Welding the pin took two days to do. Wednesday I cross threaded the P/S pump. And To top it all off i split open the palm of my left hand yesterday and am now wrenching with only one hand.

So i got all of the others loosened. I will only need one cylinder. With my luck I am going to bust a brake line as soon as I fire it up.

 

[NMB2]

CRC freeze-off is the best.

 

[sassyrel]

the bleeders are only hardened a mite. IF, you take a acet torch---and put a large enough tip--and heat the bleeder screw, hot and fast, then let cool. then take a drill bit a bit smaller than the small shank dia of the screw, and drill it, being careful to not go all the way thru, you may be able to easy it out--be careful. easy outs are hard!!!!! all the way thru!!!!!!!!!!--

 

[sassyrel]

the bleeders are only hardened a mite. IF, you take a acet torch---and put a large enough tip--and heat the bleeder screw, hot and fast, then let cool. then take a drill bit a bit smaller than the small shank dia of the screw, and drill it, being careful to not go all the way thru, you may be able to easy it out--be careful. easy outs are hard!!!!! all the way thru!!!!!!!!!!--the heat applied--will also break the rust loose. too much heat--tooooo long--and the brake cups in the cyl will burn--

 

[gatorman21218]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...p8?counter=1&itemIdentifier=50971_29814_5913_

This is the part right? for 10 bucks ill get it and just be done with it. I will need to remove the tire to get to it right?

 

[jonathan]

yep the wheel has to come off lol

 

[OLDBULL8]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...p8?counter=1&itemIdentifier=50971_29814_5913_

This is the part right? for 10 bucks ill get it and just be done with it. I will need to remove the tire to get to it right?

Yup.
But you have to remove more than the tire, the brake hub, shoe springs, two bolts rear side of the cylinder, brake line, adjusting screw & spring, carefull you don't get the bearings dirty, remove all old grease from bearings, spindle and hub. Check the shoes for wear, and if you replace them, better do both rear wheels. Have fun.

This brakes are from an 89 but they are all pretty much the same. Be sure and use a six point tubing wrench on the brake line.

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[f-two-fiddy]

Left handed drill out

 

[gatorman21218]

Ok I got the wheel off. The shoes look pretty tore up. there are long gouges in the shoes. 3/16 to 1/4 inch left of lining. I guess i might as well replace them while I have them out