sludge bottom inside intake

[earthdad]

Yeah, doing injectors and pump and noticed quite a bit of caked on sludge. Is this better left untouched, it seems stable, or could it mess up valves

 

[79jasper]

Well you would have to remove the intake manifold to clean it.
I would.

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[riotwarrior]

Please explain in a bit more detail

Sounds like oil from cdr and dirt mixture if inside the intake...if under intake whole different nall of wax

 

[riotwarrior]

Please explain in a bit more detail

Sounds like oil from cdr and dirt mixture if inside the intake...if under intake whole different ball of wax

 

[earthdad]

Its inside of the intake. Yeah, I just spent some time reading up on the CDR. I just bought the truck few weeks ago and havent Put many miles on it. I think the CDR plus an air cleaner that was not seated correctly the culprit. I will check CDR. really need to get the truck running by the end of the day. I will clean out what I can. Is there anything like a solvent I could spray into the intake while its running to dissolve and burn off what I cant get to?

 

[IDIoit]

personally, i would be unbolting the rockers so all the valves are closed.
spraying with carb cleaner, brushing with a bottle brush, and spraying again, then use an air hose to dry it.

the intake needs to come off.

you dont want all that dirt and grime scaring your cylinder walls.

clean the intake with diesel while its off.
after its clean, i would apply a fresh coat of rattle can,
if you dont care about looks, you can simply bolt it back on.
some RTV on the intake ports perhaps?

 

[earthdad]

Rtv in addition to new gasket? Or instead? I can't get a new gasket till next week. Btw this truck has pro 305,000

 

[IDIoit]

without.
since you have to pull the IP and lines to get the intake off, it would be better to get a new gasket.

 

[riotwarrior]

It has been running the way it is...damage is done.

Dont spray when engine running...dont disslodge crap if you can help it.

In the Market place are some jntake gaskets...simply order one...run it like it is plan for quality repair and do it

Or spray away soak up with rag best ya can n hope for best.

Two options yer choice

Good luck.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I think you lucked out. The oil in the mist from the CDR helped to stop all that dust from getting into the cylinders, because the air filter was not seated properly.
The valley pan gasket is supposedly a one time use. Usual cost is around $57. Only use RTV on the ends when replacing it. Clean off the old RTV real good on the ends. Don't forget to remove the drain plug on the end closest to the firewall to remove it, 3/8" square extension. Don't loose it, they are not available.

Edit: As riot said above. But the intake spiders could be coated with that crap also. Too bad your 120 miles away, I've got a new gasket, and would exchange the manifold with you, I've got a couple of clean ones.

Ain't going to Michigan City Casino any time soon.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. Peronally I feel with 305 on the engine and not knowing if the engine has ever been replaced. With that many miles if any damage was done its long ago done what its going to do. cleaning the intake is a good idea but with the cost and time I suggest wiping it out as best you can and run it. Besy suggestion is replace the CDR now no matter what. They do not last for 305,000 miles ever. Most have no idea when they fail too. Clean the valley pan behind the intake manifold air horn with brakeclean. Then install the rubber grommet with RTV. This way you have a great oil seal there. Came with the intake manifold area where the CDR fits. A light coat of RTV will create the best seal possible too. Now is a good time to begin rebuild thoughts. As for removing the intake.. Nope. Way too much work for what you will get from it. Removing the injection pump MUST be done correctly and you NEVER remove it with the gear cover and gear as one piece. I realize it has been done on u tube this way and plenty of information how you can keep the gears properly timed but.. You sure can mess it up big time doing it that way. The best way is remove the front tiny cover. Then use a 12 point 5/16 inch socket on this 3 small bolts. Then remove those 3 nuts that holds the pump to the cover. They are 6/16 nuts and the lower 2 are most difficult to get to cause they are under the pump flange on both sides. Remove the throttle cables. Remove the fuel feed line and loosen the injector hard line from the injectors. Then move the pump towards the intake manifold. Lift and move the pump towards the passenger side fender and lift out between the top and bottom studs that the nuts came off of. Simple but hot ever doing this can be ruff but only the first time.

 

[earthdad]

Bigger issues. Second injector came out in pieces. Looks like the spring cap disintegrated! It looks like the nozzle is still in the bore. What the heck.

 

[icanfixall]

WEll that sucks that an injector came apart. If you are replacing them do this. Grind off the threads on the injector body. Grind the large heavy ones off the secures the injector in the head. Then try to screw the modified injector into that nozzle cap that is stuck in the head. Tap the injector back and forth to loosen it in the hed. If that does not free it try prying up on the injector . If you can weld just weld an nut to the injector and use a slide hammer to remove the stuck injector and nozzle.

 

[MTKirk]

Sorry to hear about your injector troubles, I'll be doing that in a couple of days & hope I'm luckier than you. I went through the same thing with my intake manifold a couple of years ago with my truck, it had about a 1/4" of sludge on the bottom. I couldn't live with it, so I decided to take the manifold off. I'm really glad I did because I discovered a couple of things when I did; First, some ***** matter for brains had punched a couple of holes in the valley cover (I guess to get the valley to drain- the drain hole at the back of the block was hopelessly closed). Second, it was obvious that the tube going up from the valley cover to the cdr needed to be replaced (I didn't really see the problem with the manifold in place). Another thing is the gasket and valley cover are one piece, & the valley cover includes baffles that slow down the flow of oil to your cdr, I'm guessing having these baffles function properly is critical to cdr function. My baffles were full of all manner of nasty crud.

I made sure I had a shop vac with a small tip to clean out anything that might have loosened up & gone into the ports. I also had a mirror & good light to look into the ports. The truth is that I needn't have worried much about this, most of the sludge was trapped at the bottom of the manifold, only a film of oil made it to the ports in the head. If you do pull the manifold...... BE SURE TO DRAIN THE COOLANT FROM THE BLOCK!!!! BE SURE TO DRAIN THE COOLANT FROM THE BLOCK!!!! BE SURE TO DRAIN THE COOLANT FROM THE BLOCK!!!! BE SURE TO DRAIN THE COOLANT FROM THE BLOCK!!!!BE SURE TO DRAIN THE COOLANT FROM THE BLOCK!!!!

 

[earthdad]

Thanks so much for the advice. I got the injector out by grinding threads and using old. The copper washer was pretty jammed. I used an old oring on 3/8 12 point with an easy out attached. Was able to get a grip on the id of the washer and work it out. Will be finishing up tomorrow morning and trying to get her breathing.