Saginaw ps pump

Cubey

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Well I’ll be dipped! I dont know why I didn’t think of googling that term


This has a good discussion on the topic about using a tee as well as modifying the Saginaw reservoir.

 

1mouse3

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The saginaw pump is mostly the same through its run, only major change is in the 70s it changed from keyed to press fit pully. These pumps have a valve to control the pressure and the hydro ones had the highest setting. This valve is easy to remove, its behind the fitting for the high pressure line. A 6.2/6.5/bbc would be a easy engine to find in the junkyard to grab one. This will ensure you have pinky steering when on the brakes.

Say for the a 86 6.2 on rockauto, I see these two options for a can and has the extra port.


Not sure if that can ham will work, it will be clocked slightly different than one for 86 van 6.9. The remote reservoir one would not be clock in a way to cause issue, but would need to mount that somewhere.

 

Austin86250

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The saginaw pump is mostly the same through its run, only major change is in the 70s it changed from keyed to press fit pully. These pumps have a valve to control the pressure and the hydro ones had the highest setting. This valve is easy to remove, its behind the fitting for the high pressure line. A 6.2/6.5/bbc would be a easy engine to find in the junkyard to grab one. This will ensure you have pinky steering when on the brakes.

Say for the a 86 6.2 on rockauto, I see these two options for a can and has the extra port.


Not sure if that can ham will work, it will be clocked slightly different than one for 86 van 6.9. The remote reservoir one would not be clock in a way to cause issue, but would need to mount that somewhere.

Unfortunately I’ve never seen detoit in my local junkyards but I’d buy new anyways thank you!
 

hacked89

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Unfortunately I’ve never seen detoit in my local junkyards but I’d buy new anyways thank you!
Same in PA junkyards pretty much anything pre 1990 trucks have been crushed.

A couple of the large yards will keep antique 40s to 70s sections. If they get a clean 80s truck it will be put out in the truck section for a couple months and then turned into cans. 0 to None IDIs in the yards too.

I’ll catch like 1-2 here and there across our largest places.
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OlKoot

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Yes Siganaw pumps had an extra 200 or so psi, over the Ford pumps. Only found on the Econoline
 

IDIBRONCO

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So, after all of this discussion, Austin, if you do end up getting a Saginaw pump that will work, there's a lot of people who would like to use one on their trucks. The trouble is that the mounting brackets are very hard to find. Could you see about having some made? I know that people would buy them.
 

Austin86250

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So, after all of this discussion, Austin, if you do end up getting a Saginaw pump that will work, there's a lot of people who would like to use one on their trucks. The trouble is that the mounting brackets are very hard to find. Could you see about having some made? I know that people would buy them.
That was exactly my thought, I’m no expert on fabrication but if made a couple brackets before and now I even have a drill press and welder
 

Cubey

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When you get a pump, make sure it's assembled correctly. I ran into this problem on an O'Reilly pump. The collared nut on the stud was put on backwards, making it not fit the bracket. Rather than void the warranty, I got a bare pump (for much less money) to install in the old reservoir instead because I was having stuff shipped in and couldn't go to town without power steering in a 27ft motorhome. I returned the O'Reilly one later and they took it back no problem.


Old pump on the left, new on the right.

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The collar is supposed to be in the pump, not outside. The bracket is supposed to slide on the stud right there where the collar is.
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Austin86250

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A 6.2/6.5/bbc would be a easy engine to find in the junkyard to grab one.
I believe your right on this one, this is what I’m going to try first only concern is the way the bottom return is facing but I done see it being too big of a deal though
Assuming the bolt holes for the bracket are the same I think I’ll be in business

When I get all this stuff figured out I thing I’ll take my first shot at doing a write up in a hydro boost and Saginaw swap unless it’s been done before that I haven’t seen

@Cubey what fluid do you use? My duramax with a Saginaw calls for power steering fluid so now I’m curious
 

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Cubey

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@Cubey what fluid do you use? My duramax with a Saginaw calls for power steering fluid so now I’m curious

I put Dex/Merc, same as the transmission. It's been in there for 2 years since I replaced the pump, no issues. I ran it before too. I only replaced the pump because the huge o-ring around the pump to reservoir was leaking worse and worse. I decided to get a new pump since it's very hard to change on a van without pulling the radiator. I did it with the radiator in place but it's the worst job I've had to do on this.
 

1mouse3

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I believe your right on this one, this is what I’m going to try first only concern is the way the bottom return is facing but I done see it being too big of a deal though
Assuming the bolt holes for the bracket are the same I think I’ll be in business

When I get all this stuff figured out I thing I’ll take my first shot at doing a write up in a hydro boost and Saginaw swap unless it’s been done before that I haven’t seen

@Cubey what fluid do you use? My duramax with a Saginaw calls for power steering fluid so now I’m curious


You can bend that line slightly if needed but be carfull not to crush it if you do. All the bolt hole will be the same, they may or may not give you the stud bolt on the back tho. Go ahead on a write up, my thread on the subject is a bit all over the place.

One pump to rule them all


I went about making the pump work in a serpentine setup and made my own adaptor, I used a 60s 396 bbc can and 6.2 pump.

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There are two ways you can go about getting lines to work. First way is if you have a ma and pa hardware store around that dose hydraulic lines, there is a chance thay can make something work. This is what I was using, it is two cut end and steel compresion fittings and dont use brass ones. This held together for 20k miles with out issue and Im using power steering fluid.

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I changed the pump end to a banjo for clearence for a turbo


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And still will be using a compresion on the hydro bosst side. The second way is with an/jic fittings and have part numbers for where you can use a hose with 90 degree ends, can find them for you latter.

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1mouse3

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When you get a pump, make sure it's assembled correctly. I ran into this problem on an O'Reilly pump. The collared nut on the stud was put on backwards, making it not fit the bracket. Rather than void the warranty, I got a bare pump (for much less money) to install in the old reservoir instead because I was having stuff shipped in and couldn't go to town without power steering in a 27ft motorhome. I returned the O'Reilly one later and they took it back no problem.


Old pump on the left, new on the right.

You must be registered for see images attach



The collar is supposed to be in the pump, not outside. The bracket is supposed to slide on the stud right there where the collar is.
You must be registered for see images attach


There is nothing wrong with that pump you returned. Your issue is a bolt with a stud that holds the can on the pump, you have two different ones and they will interchange without disassembling the pump. It could be a metric vs imperial treaded pump, and might not interchage.
 

1mouse3

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I had links for all steel an/jic fittings, but that site is down.

Ether of these fittings will work for the pump, the first would be one less fitting to deal with.


This is pressure in to the hydroboost


If you want matching pressure lines, this is out from the hydroboost


And this is pressure into the gear box


With these, all you need is to mesure for your hose. Then go to a hydrolic shop and ask for -06 hose, with -06 90* jic fittings. Dash sizes are in 16th of a inch, so -06 is 1/2in.
 
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