RWABS valve, needed or not?

Goofyexponent

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Ok, I know if I remove this valve I'll have no RWABS.....I don't care. I pulled the fuse out right after it got inspected anyways. I HATE ABS, And I even disabled it in my Buick.

Flame me, I don't care. Sorry to sound short, but I have always driven vehicles without abs and found them more predictable than vehicles with abs when panic stopping.

What I want to know is if I disabled the abs by removing the valve altogether what would happen? Would I have too much line pressure to the rear? Would I need a manual propotioning valve? Or can I just run a straight line fromt eh rear output on the master to teh rear flex hose without any issue?

This was the brake line that blew the day I took the truck to the shop and there is NO WAY the lines are coming out of the valve under the truck...they are seized so tight, you couldn't get them apart is you NEEDED to.

I will disable the ABS light in the dash for safety inspection again at the end of next month.

Anyone ever do this before?
 

Matrix37495

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Based on my understanding of how the thing works, nothing will change if you remove the RABS. It will behave as if you were driving on dry pavement. :)
 

icanfixall

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My thoughts are in an accident if the insurance company of the other guy looks into why you could not stop they may find you at fault for a modified braking system. Even my upgraded hydroboost system is not a truck born with braking system... So what will they try to do if I'm involved in a traffic accident... We al know that the hydroboost braking system more than doubles the braking pressure available in the system so we actually have twice the braking capasity. Its just the actual friction brakeing material that never changes.
 

WhiskeyBottle2

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I wouldn't worry about the insurance company. If your not the original owner and since your truck (I am assuming) is early 90's...How are you supposed to know about rabs....Anyway, I don't like em either...being I'm 57 years old I know how to brake without them....

On my truck I just ran a line into a "T" and a line to each rear wheel. Now...my rear wheels have a tendancy to lock up on hard braking, but like I said...I know how to use the brakes...

I don't need a rabs to help me...
 

Goofyexponent

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That's just it!

The wife's 2004 Grand Am didn't have it from the factory. I found out the hard way (almost) that teh car didn't have ABS. I used the brake as if it did and almost tbones a car that came through an intersection on icy roads. Had I have known the tires would have locked up I would have simply braked until the wheels locked up and then eased up a but to maintain steering.

I thing a big misconception about abs is that it stops you faster. It actually takes a little longer to come to a complete stop, but it lets you maintain control a little easier.

But if you know thresh hold braking, you can do the same thing. I drive so much it's just natural to brake in a panic situation and not drag wheels, even when it's icy and slippery.

I just don't want to spend any more $$ on this thing that I HAVE to to drive it for the winter....as it will only be coming back apart as soon as the snow stops adn the roads are acceptable o drive on all seasons with again....I'll put the Buick back on the road in the spring.
 

Goose_ss4

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not to jack your thread, but i have been having a problem with my brakes for awhile now. i just a brake on rear, first one of its life probaly, because the seals were leaking rear end fluid. stop good for awhile, but now i think that portportioning valve under the cab for the abs, i think, is bad. you baring touch the pedal and everything locks up. any suggestions?
 

Goofyexponent

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Don't worry about hijacking, it's all one big learning expirence for most of us...even I learn new things on here that I never would have thought possible.

I had an issue like that before. Check to make sure your E-brake cables are releasing 100%, and make sure the brakes are adjusted properly and clean.

One issue I had was the E-brake cables were sticking, so I put new ones on and left the engaging arms pushed back ALL the way...this wouldn't let the adjusters keep the brakes tight and I would have to pump the pedal to get enough fluid to the back brakes to maintain pedal height.

I simply engaged the e-brake and released it, then adjusted the shoes manually by going under the truck and I NEVER had a problem with them again.
 

riotwarrior

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regular yearly inspections in Atlantic Canada means you may want to leave that puppy alone! Just saying....As for thrreshhold braking, once a tyre locks on ice, the amount of pedal release to unlock it basically is remove foot from pedal...not enough friction on ice for tyre to overcome brakes very easy...just saying...
 

Goofyexponent

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regular yearly inspections in Atlantic Canada means you may want to leave that puppy alone! Just saying....As for thrreshhold braking, once a tyre locks on ice, the amount of pedal release to unlock it basically is remove foot from pedal...not enough friction on ice for tyre to overcome brakes very easy...just saying...

I wish I could leave it alone, however the fittings are so seized in, removing them would mean destroying the valve and buying a new one. Not an option. If I don't HAVE to have it on the old girl to pass safety (so long as my regular brakes and E brake still work fine) I am not going to install a new one.
 

idi_econoline

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Speaking of which, since my valve looks orig, are these valves dealer-only? I think my boss paid $600+ for one, as the shop he uses believes in genuine-only.

Surely someone else besides me would like to know? :confused:
 

GOOSE

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The rabs valve isn't "necessary" to have brakes. I would be interested to see a comparison, with and without the rabs, loaded and unloaded. If you delete it and the rear brakes constantly lock up when the fronts are only getting half of the line pressure they could use, you won't have an effective braking system.
 

WhiskeyBottle2

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Effective Braking System

The rabs valve isn't "necessary" to have brakes. I would be interested to see a comparison, with and without the rabs, loaded and unloaded. If you delete it and the rear brakes constantly lock up when the fronts are only getting half of the line pressure they could use, you won't have an effective braking system.

Effective in who's world? Rabs valves are relatively new on the scene in the world of automobiles. Now I am not saying rabs is a bad thing, in fact the electronically controlled systems are great. But, for our beautiful old trucks rabs
can be a real PITA...Not counting how expensive the manual rabs valves are. In other words, they are just not that effective for our trucks. Do they work? Yes, but I wouldn't spend my money on em.
 

jhnlennon

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Speaking of which, since my valve looks orig, are these valves dealer-only? I think my boss paid $600+ for one, as the shop he uses believes in genuine-only.

Surely someone else besides me would like to know? :confused:
They are available aftermarket, any parts store can get a reman. I think I paid about 130 bucks for the last one I bought.
 

onus

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The new abs systems work fantastically. The old ones like this. Not so much. If you are going to bypass put in a proportioning valve so your front brake get enough pressure before the rears lockup.
 

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