Robs wvo & wmo plans

Discussion in 'BioDiesel & Alternative Fuels' started by Macrobb, Mar 10, 2018.

  1. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    I'm planning to get into using WVO or WMO in one of my trucks to start with. I've currently gotten several hundred gallons of WVO stored, along with a good 400 gallons of WMO. I also have a local bar giving me WVO when they change out their fryers - probably 50 gallons a month.

    AKA... I have a resource here, and I need to use it.

    My plan at this point is:
    1. Buy a centrifuge. I'm looking at motor-driven ones(expensive, but better).
    2. Use a pre-filter made of rag material - probably denim pant legs?
    3. Mix the 'clean' WVO or WMO(yes, I know not to mix them) with 10% Ethanol-free RUG, throw in a dose of diesel additives and call it good,
    4. Settle it for a while and make sure nothing is coming out.
    5. Run it at 100%.

    The centrifuge that looks the best to me is this one:
    http://www.wvodesigns.com/raw-power-centrifuge.html.html
    Only... I'm looking at buying it without a motor. I should have a compatible Baldor 3-phase motor, and I have inverter drives to run it.
     
  2. Jason1377

    Jason1377 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Would this help lube the motor better and increase mpg or still have the same result as just running diesel, and that set up looks nice although I know nothing of bio fuels
     
  3. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    In diesel, a little bit(2%) of (proper) biodiesel will definitely help lubricity. That's why it's added to regular diesel that you buy at the station sometimes(you'll see a "contains up to X % biodiesel".

    In my case, it's a matter of cost. With fuel around $3/gal, and ethanol-free gas at, say, $3.50/gal, my fuel costs would be around $0.35/gal for the gas(10%), plus my time.
    If it works out, awesome!
    Worst case, if I screw up, I could gum up or wear out an injector pump/injectors, around $1k total replacement cost.
    Now... I have a few (used) spares around, and can swap in an IP in an hour or two, so it doesn't bother me too much. As long as my filtration works, I should be just fine in any case.
     
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  4. Sidewinded_idi

    Sidewinded_idi Full Access Member

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    I would also recommend a hydrometer. I can send you the type I have so you can match viscositys. I did it for a long time without but it’s a must for the powerstroke. The idi burned everything
     
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  5. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    Hm... Any thoughts about simply using a "dip cup" like for paint viscosity? You simply have a container on a rod with a calibrated hole in the bottom, dip it into your fluid, pull it up and count how many seconds it takes for the fluid to run out. Thicker fluid = takes longer.
    Common dip cups(like Zahn or Ford cups) come with charts to convert to centistokes, for comparing with just about anything.
    It seems like this would work decently well, and be easy to clean compared with a more sophisticated device.
     
  6. clint bartels

    clint bartels Full Access Member

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    A hydrometer is less than 50 dollars shipped. I think of mine as insurance injectors are an ouch. Plus it makes starting and top end power easier and smother.
     
  7. austin92

    austin92 Full Access Member

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    I’ve been saving wmo and wvo for a while now and I’ve been doing some reading but still a little lost. Just from this thread I didn’t know you couldn’t mix the 2 or that viscosities could damage injectors? If you don’t mind, could you elaborate on that?


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  8. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    What I've read is:
    1. Straight WVO is pretty thick. Warm, in the summer... it'll probably work OK, or if you heat it up.
    Cold, not so much. If it's too thick, you could even shear the IP shaft.
    2. Same with WMO, but to a lesser extent. A friend of mine would run a mixture of 50-50 diesel and WMO, and it works fine(in an IDI). It's hard to start beyond that.
    3. The 'do not mix' issue comes from the WMO polymerizing (turning into plastic), which it will slowly do anyway - I spilled some down the rear bumper of my truck a few weeks ago, and it's decidedly not oil anymore. It feels like a rough plastic/wax coating. Scrapes off in chunks.
    I Also made the mistake of leaving a funnel i poured WVO through without cleaning it, just shoved a paper towel in there. The next day, it was gummed in there and would not come out. Tried soap, degreasers, penerating oil, diesel... I finally soaked it in hot water for a bit and lifted the paper towel and plastic layer off the funnel in chunks.
    I'm still not sure how to keep that from happening in the engine, but I'm concerned. I want to filter out alk the crud and then see what happens with the 'clean' WVO. WMO won't do that, I know.
     
  9. clint bartels

    clint bartels Full Access Member

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    Basically when your fuel is to thick its like having gelled below zero D2. It might run but the lack of lubricity and the drop in fuel pressure at your heads will murder your fuel system. The other thing to remember is those fine fine holes in the end of your injectors. If your fuel is to thick it will push through those in clumps and drips and not a mist that burns proper. Thinner is better for your injectors but finding thin that still lubricates is the problem. That's why we thin with ATF, E-free rug, karo, etc. We measure density with a Hydrometer and cut it to 0.825-0.86 depending on engine and outside temps. Warmer means more oil less cut, Colder means more cut than summer but measure it every batch is different. We also filter filter filter I swear to you your fuel cant be clean enough.
     
  10. Sidewinded_idi

    Sidewinded_idi Full Access Member

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    This x10, I way over filter and absolutely will not run filtered wmo that hasn’t been through a centrifuge. In my idi it was way more forgiving. I would centrifuge for a day and run it at 85%oil to 15% gasoline. My powerstroke I had to by the hydrometer and double up centrifuges and really be on point with my fuel or it smokes white like a train.
     
  11. austin92

    austin92 Full Access Member

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    I have mixed in 1 gallon of wvo with about 20 gallons of wmo, didn’t know any better. Should I pitch it all? Also, can idi’s run say 50/50 diesel/ wmo with out a fuge, only filtering?


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  12. Christian9112

    Christian9112 Full Access Member

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    raw diesel from the pump is not as well filtered as gasoline, that is why we have huge filters on diesel engines.Military used WMO on our IDI engines so they dont have to bring in as much diesel to foreign countries. Personally, I think WMO is good to just run after filtering. They do mix thickeners with motor oil to help with engine wear. anything direct injected, really needs a centrifuge. If wvo, heaters and titration is required.
     
  13. clint bartels

    clint bartels Full Access Member

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    Its not wasted you just need to thin it down and filter a bit more. IMHO

    Ok technically yes but filters and high pressure systems are expensive. The other thing is oil and D2 wont mix unless blended very very well. There density is do different. Yes your D2 will turn black and look the same but if you leave a hydrometer in your open drum and pump it out it will become denser and denser as you get to the bottom. Rug acts as a go between and thins the heavy stuff and allows them to be whipped together.
     
  14. Kiwif150

    Kiwif150 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    This is the one i'm building Rob , i've modified a torque converter from a ford laser , using a bowl from an old wringer washing machine and various bits of scrap steel i've got laying around.

    20180317_124947.jpg

    20180317_125034.jpg

    20180317_131245.jpg

    20180317_150547.jpg
     
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