reverse shackle front, what to do in the rear?

[6.9poweredscout]

This summer I plan on a reverse shackle/Dana 60 swap on my 2wd dually. Now that'll probably get me like 5"of lift up front right? So what's everyone do in the rear? It's a tow rig so 6" blocks in the rear is kind of scary. Can I use lift springs out back?

 

[kuskoal]

Are you sure you want that high of a kit? PMF fabrication makes an RSK that adds 2.25" Lift with v-code springs. I know a guy that did the sky RSK and the b-code springs from a super duty and an f350 block, sits nice and level and gives you a better shackle angle. Better angle=better ride!

OR you can do a REAL 6" spring kit. Not sure who makes a nice all spring rear for obs trucks though.

Obs trucks were the last real truck ever made, and ford knows it. A lot of parts swap easily to ours.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

sky makes a 6.5 inch shackle flip for the rears now. very nice kit. I have one on the f100. 6.5 inches of lift with stock springs....

 

[dunk]

They make smaller reverse shackle kits for the front. I'd go as small as possible as the lift is just from hanging the spring lower. You'll have shackle hanging low out front to hit on things, lame. What I've read works well and I'd like to do to mine is the short reverse shackle kit and use longer and taller arched Super Duty springs to get another 2" for about 4" total. This should give the best ride and the most ground clearance with the least affect on caster.

For the rear I've done reverse shackles using flipped factory hangers and Sky hangers. The sky hangers are a lot beefier and I recommend using them if you go that route. If you do a rear shackle flip you should also box the factory shackles as they are weaker in compression than tension. A flip with either should get you 3"-4" of lift, and you can add a leaf to get closer to 6" if that's your goal. Really doing rear lift springs is the best way if you haul heavy and it's what I'll do with my next lift. Do not run blocks, it'll swaw more towing and you'll get axle wrap.

Really if towing 4" on 35" tires is the most I'd go. Throw lockers under it and you've got a very capable trail rig, no worries about any snow, road flooding or other BS we get in this region, and still comfortable to tow without funky behavior from the lift. Been there done that, had 6" on 38.5x15 and a few inbetween trucks and a quality 4" (no blocks, no body lift, etc.) on 35" with lockers I think is ideal for a good all around truck that needs to do a bit of everything.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

Ok, what I meant by that is that it's a 2wd, JUST the 4x4 conversion will net about 3" correct? then i'll get the 2.5" SKY kit, following? haha. It's JUST a tow rig so i'd like to keep the shackles up, I hear a shackle flip can cause sway when loaded. I'd prefer NO blocks, assuming i'd need like 7" tall ones with the RSK....right? thanks for the input guys!

 

[Dieselcrawler]

I have ran many trucks with the shackles flipped. no sway I have noticed. that plow truck I was in a few weeks ago has skys kit on it.

 

[kuskoal]

Remember that with a shackle flip you need to redesign the driveline. You are only moving one side of the spring down. Changes pinion angle and moves the axle forward. If you can source blocks from a bronco, or get a double cardan drive shaft, great! If not you're going to have some good vibrations!

Super duty b-codes are the way to go. The shackle will be under tension because of the slightly longer springs. Bolts in, better ride and more progressive.

But honestly get the front done and figure out exactly what you need before tackling the rear.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

Even towing Corey?

 

[Dieselcrawler]

yep. he has towed out 1986 24ft camper up to potter with it. no issues. plus he doesn't even have a sway bar. yours should have one... just extend the links.

aldo the 6.5 inch flip kit fixes all the driveline angle issues since it lowers the front of the spring to.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

Sounds good, cheaper than springs too. The truck will need hangers soon too.... Just unsure on the amount of lift needed.

 

[bobracing]

Depending on how much work you want to do, run the shackle thru the frame.
This will allow for less drop in the front and less over all lift. The issue is a body mount where the hole needs to be. A little modification of the that body mount and some Ruff Stuff "Chevy" style rear thru the frame mounts, should work nicely. Even if you use the a Sky front mount, the rear could be moved up with less drop than putting the shackle below the frame.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

Great idea, but isn't the kit designed with caster in mind? May throw off steering angles.

 

[bobracing]

If you use the sky mounts, some steel deg shims should bring caster back. I think the Sky kit looks to add caster too.
If you make your own mounts, figure you could drop at least 2" off the height. 2" off the shackle then only a 1" front drop would be needed for stock caster. BUT if you made a 0" front drop mount a little extra caster doesn't hurt on solid axle Fords.
On a personal note, from the pictures never seen one in person, the Sky kits looks to add extra caster and surprised with the spring angle there isn't a dive problem under braking. Just my thoughts looking at pictures.
This would all need the F350 front springs and 4" stock blocks for the rear but should run fairly level when done.

 

[franklin2]

Listen to what the others are saying, and try not to lift this truck very much if you are going to use it for towing. A really high truck means a lot of drop on ball hitches, problems when towing a gooseneck or fifthwheel, and when you run really large tires you get less braking with the truck. I know it looks tough way up high, but a little compromise will give you a better more useful truck.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

Trust me I want it to look stock 2wd but I can't with a 60 and everyone I talk to says the sky kit makes them ride awesome.