return lines left me stranded

[hacked89]

@hacked89 It was the red clamp kit. The person at Napa who sold it to me owns a 6.9 and a 7.3. Everything seemed to fit as it should. Do you know specifically what makes the red kit not the right one? I drained the batteries trying to purge the air out after the return lines were back on. I'll have to wait till tomorrow to make sure everything works as it should.

Yep I knew it was going to be the red kit when you described it. I did just what you did and noticed the cap differences for starters. I swapped it for the green one and no leaks and no issues.

The red technically should be okay if it's capped like was discussed in this thread but I'm picky.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

@Macrobb you're probably right. Also, I haven't quite figured out
A) if my batteries are shot
B) my alternator is going out
C) might be some funky wiring going on
D)???

Sometimes when I start the truck, the battery gauge will show around 1\4 charge. I'll drive it around and the gauge will drop to almost nothing. Then next time I get in it'll start right up and the gauge will stay batteries almost dead. I'll drive it around and they go back up to 1/4 charge. It seems random. They never charge past 1/4... But at this point I am learning to mostly not trust the factory gauges. Made it real obvious today what my next project is... the batteries died after two ten second attempts to purge air. If there's one thing I know less about than mechanics, it's electrical.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

@hacked89 Dang, I live 50 miles from that Napa. It's my nearest auto parts store. Maybe I'll just reuse my old caps if it leaks worse than it did before. I did notice that the little fuel pin holes inside the caps were considerably larger in the new ones... was one of those things that made me go hmmmm.

 

[DrCharles]

What exactly are you referring to by the "battery gauge"? The dash voltmeter? That's not useful in determining the state of charge other than a crude indication of higher voltage (probably charging) or lower voltage (draining or not charging). And really low with the glow plugs on.

My batteries have a green dot visible from an internal hydrometer float which is only a bit more helpful...

 

[Macrobb]

@hacked89 Dang, I live 50 miles from that Napa. It's my nearest auto parts store. Maybe I'll just reuse my old caps if it leaks worse than it did before. I did notice that the little fuel pin holes inside the caps were considerably larger in the new ones... was one of those things that made me go hmmmm.

You got the late-model IDI kit. Designed to be used with 1/4" fuel lines.

Earlier models used the smaller 3/16" barb-on-center caps.

Either way, it doesn't make much difference, as long as your hoses are correct. Just needs to allow for flow.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

@Macrobb Things are starting to click! There were two different types of hose on the return lines before I replaced them. Drivers side was where the worst of my leaks were (leaking from every return cap) and had unlabled cloth sheathed rubber lines similar to what I found in the Napa kit. These hoses were plugged into the barb-on-center caps. I just assumed that the PO had replaced the passenger side hoses and that's why passenger side wasn't hardly leaking.
Just looked... sure enough! Passenger side is 3\16 hose and drivers side is unlabeled and looks to be exactly like the hose I got with the Napa kit - Cohline 7x12. The Cohline fits snug on the fuel filter but, it fits really loose where the driver and passenger side return hoses plug into a hard line (next to the glow plug relay). Maybe I'll swap out the red clamps at that spot for hose clamps?

 

[chillman88]

@Macrobb Things are starting to click! There were two different types of hose on the return lines before I replaced them. Drivers side was where the worst of my leaks were (leaking from every return cap) and had unlabled cloth sheathed rubber lines similar to what I found in the Napa kit. These hoses were plugged into the barb-on-center caps. I just assumed that the PO had replaced the passenger side hoses and that's why passenger side wasn't hardly leaking.
Just looked... sure enough! Passenger side is 3\16 hose and drivers side is unlabeled and looks to be exactly like the hose I got with the Napa kit - Cohline 7x12. The Cohline fits snug on the fuel filter but, it fits really loose where the driver and passenger side return hoses plug into a hard line (next to the glow plug relay). Maybe I'll swap out the red clamps at that spot for hose clamps?

This is exactly what I was referring to. Sounds like you have a mismatched system anyway. The return lines on your truck are 3/16, and you have a 1/4 kit. Apparently someone changed something because your filter head has a 1/4" barb on it. This is the sole difference between the red or green kits.

You can try different clamps, but just be warned it still might not seal using 1/4 hose on a 3/16 fitting.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

@chillman88 Man, I should have slowed down and listened to you before. When you said different size, I was already under the hood. I took like half a second to look and decide they were "the same size". Sorry to you for that... now, I have to pay the price.

At the beginning of this thread, you said "Honestly everyone buys a kit but I just bought some viton o-rings off amazon and some hose at the parts store and reused my old caps. Greased everything with wheel bearing grease before I put the o-rings on and mine has been fine for a couple years now."
Wishing I could turn back time. Thanks for trying to help me.

Edit- I'm going to take the old 3\16 hose I removed from the passenger side to see if I can get it to fit on the new red kit's 1\4" barbs. Extra tight might be better than too loose? Thinking about swapping in the old 3\16 hose only on the elbows where the returns turn to connect to the hard line.

I really appreciate everyone's help. Lesson learned. I'll do my best to slow down and listen to you guys. I tend to get overly excited and a little nervous when I get a wrench in my hand.

 

[chillman88]

Hey it happens bud no hard feelings. Been there myself a time or two!

I myself would try squeezing the 3/16 over the barbs where you need to to make it work like you said. Worst case it won't fit.

 

[Macrobb]

You can also do what I've done before: Using the 1/4" caps and a 1/4 brass tee, completely replace the system. At the rear on both corners, run a line to the other side of the motor. Insert a tee into this rear crossover, that goes back to the fuel return hose down the back of the motor.
String the lines forward through the caps, to meet at the front of the motor. The passenger's side front connects to the fuel filter return, and the driver's side connects to the IP return.

Completely remove the old gray pipe that goes forward from the back of the motor to the IP return.