Resurrecting a "Dead" 6.9".

Cruiseomatic

Defining Insanity
Joined
Sep 25, 2015
Posts
665
Reaction score
11
Location
Dark side of the Sun.
Now that everything has slowed down and money isn't tighter than a snare drum, I can re-focus on my '87. Still need a cab but for right now, Getting it to run is top priority. If it does run, Even sputters and tries, I have the ok to put more cash into it. It currently has no fuel tanks or pump. Tanks are shot from covered in loose "dusty" rust which took out both sending units. The mechanical fuel pump was by-passed years ago and the electric that was put on is trash. This engine has sat for the past year with no oil or water in it. What oil is in it is sitting in the oil pan at the bottom mixed with diesel that was forgotten about until recently. And no oil filter either. Was working on it then life happened and just haven't had a chance to get to it....It does have a air filter housing with filter installed though. Radiator cap was also left off. Its not seized up either. Found that out by mistake tonight...Put a weak battery in to test something and accidentally bumped it over.

My question is,
Can someone give me a detailed list of what I will need and how to do a "temp" setup to see if this old beast will run again? I have the right battery cables but still either need the core support one or someway to lengthen the one I have. I do have the right batteries. I have a 6.0 that is never driven and has now developed a rattle when it hits a bump.
I have two good batteries, cables, a 5 gallon fuel can, some wd-40, old trans fluid, and a squirt can.
I also have a 4.9 that DID run when I parked it 5 years ago and is in EXTREME need of a body shop but that's later. This engine did have a sticker on the passenger valve cover that read "Motorcraft Re-manufactured Engine." And it had punch outs all the way up for a 6.0 so this engine isn't that old. And just to see if it'll run, everything needs to be budget oriented for now. I've already got at least $700 in this truck so far. If this post seems out of wack, I'm blaming the caffeine on it.
So what do I completely need and in what order do I need to do it so nothing is over looked and I can "guarantee" she'll start or at least show signs of life?

Thanks for the help.
 

dgr

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2012
Posts
915
Reaction score
238
Location
sac town
Battery. Oil and filter. Tiniest shot of ether in the air filter inlet. Look! She runs. I think I might hold a gas soaked rag near the air filter inlet first. The sound of my engine starting on ether makes my teeth hurt. Do disconnect your glowplug controller if using alternative starting methods. The two do not work together.
 

Cruiseomatic

Defining Insanity
Joined
Sep 25, 2015
Posts
665
Reaction score
11
Location
Dark side of the Sun.
Just the thought of using ether on a diesel makes me cringe worse than long nails on a chalk board. That's where the WD-40 comes into play. I do know Diesel mechanics but on resurrecting one, and with limited experience on this engine, I'd rather ask then assume. Should I try to use the glowplugs first and if it doesn't fire off try the starting fluid(wd-40)?
 

dgr

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2012
Posts
915
Reaction score
238
Location
sac town
If your goal is to make it make diesel noises so you can pour money into it, you need oil and an alternative fuel. I haven't used wd40 as a starting fluid.

If you want to do more, you need your glow plugs working (or two really good batteries and a good starter you're willing to toast). The purple wire on the solenoid mounted on the flat of the passenger wheel well is the trigger. You will hear it cycle or can put a manual push button to that wire.

You need low pressure fuel to the injection pump. This can be a cheap pump feeding into the filter head from a fuel can. Pull the return line off and run it back into the can so it doesn't pump all your fuel onto the ground.

I just did an oil cooler on my truck. Based on the work involved, I would be concerned about the missing oil filter on there and what could have crawled up inside the cooler. Regardless, you really need oil an a filter on there.

It probably wouldn't hurt to fill the cooling system with water. I don't know if the water pump bearing needs water in it to keep it cool.

You need power to the IP. This can be a jumper wire if the ignition switch isn't working.

Get your fuel delivery working. Crack all the lines on the injectors. Crank the engine and as each line begins to dribble, tighten them up. Your fuel system is then primed.

Fully charge your batteries. Cycle your glow plugs. If the controller is working, cycle it twice. Cross your fingers and hit the go button.
 

dgr

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2012
Posts
915
Reaction score
238
Location
sac town
BTW, the sending units died because ford sucks. I say that while I bleed blue. Isn't the front tank on that plastic?
 

dgr

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2012
Posts
915
Reaction score
238
Location
sac town
I should add, it would be a good idea to pull the glow plugs and spin the motor in case there are any liquids in there. The cowl seal dumps water onto the air cleaner when it gets old and cracked. You might want to search on here for wd 40 as a starting fluid. It looks like it is new and improved and might not work.
 

Cruiseomatic

Defining Insanity
Joined
Sep 25, 2015
Posts
665
Reaction score
11
Location
Dark side of the Sun.
Sending units basically fell apart. Looks to be factory. Both tanks are steel. I think I have pictures of them somewhere on here. Glowplugs work and so does the controller. I have two fully charged 850 CA batteries. All the electrical that I can tell is fine. Oil filter is a given, I planned on replacing both the fuel and oil filters. But basically, Fill it with 11 quarts of dino oil, Replace the fuel and oil filter, fill it with water as full as it will go, get the cheap mr. gasket fuel pump for testing, prime fuel system, purge old fuel out then run return into container, spin it over a couple of times to get oil flow, then hit the go button. Something tells me, I'm missing alot somewhere.
 

riotwarrior

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,782
Reaction score
492
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
Either is fine....if used in moderation and no gp working.

Make sure you are spinning engine and just give little spzzts bursts. Try one see if fires rapidly....then another...you will hear it knock bad if you SPRAY too much...trust me on this and that is BAD!

Small electric pump or replace the manual lift pump...pull fuel from a jerry can...as mentioned run return back to jerry can.

If running for under 2 min no need add water....it will be fine.

Givershitenwatcherclose!
 

Cruiseomatic

Defining Insanity
Joined
Sep 25, 2015
Posts
665
Reaction score
11
Location
Dark side of the Sun.
Any certain type of oil I should run in it for a first start in who knows how long? Or any type of additives in either the oil or fuel?
 
Last edited:

Thewespaul

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Posts
8,796
Reaction score
8,070
Location
Bulverde, Texas
Considering that it had no oil or oil filter on it I would personally fill it up to capacity with a mix of marvel mystery oil and maybe some atf, just to let those detergents sit in the engine for awhile and then drain it would definitely help remove alot of crud in the engine, then I would fill it up with rotella 15-40w, thats just what I run, others use synthetic oils
 

Cruiseomatic

Defining Insanity
Joined
Sep 25, 2015
Posts
665
Reaction score
11
Location
Dark side of the Sun.
Plan on putting a 7.3 oil filter on so it'll take 11 quarts. How much (in quarts) of MMO and ATF would I use to replace the oil? MMO says 20% which means use one quart for a 5 quart capacity basically. There's pictures somewhere, you all should of seen the soft grey sludge that came out. Any older and Dino eggs would start hatching.
 
Top