Rebuild

Justice

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so I picked up this truck last year it sat for ten years and I got it to run great but now I’m wanting to do a complete restoration and I had a couple questions about the engine is it worth putting a turbo on these engine I’m not looking for mad power but just better speed/ pulling power and also what’s the best place to order a rebuild kit. This is my first truck / restoration project.

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saburai

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Turbo and head studs. If you search here there are several posts about turbos and rebuilding these.

Even if you don't have the resources to install ARP studs if you've got a good running NA engine, just adding a mostly stock turbo set up, running conservative boost and a free flowing exhaust is a night and day difference. I did just that with Diego the '90 that @chillman88 bought from me. He also has Tank, his NA duelly, maybe Chris will chime in and reiterate the the difference in the driving experience NA vs. forced induction...
 

saburai

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so I picked up this truck last year it sat for ten years and I got it to run great but now I’m wanting to do a complete restoration and I had a couple questions about the engine is it worth putting a turbo on these engine I’m not looking for mad power but just better speed/ pulling power and also what’s the best place to order a rebuild kit. This is my first truck / restoration project.

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BTW welcome to the forum :cheers:
 

chillman88

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Even if you don't have the resources to install ARP studs if you've got a good running NA engine, just adding a mostly stock turbo set up, running conservative boost and a free flowing exhaust is a night and day difference. I did just that with Diego the '90 that @chillman88 bought from me. He also has Tank, his NA duelly, maybe Chris will chime in and reiterate the the difference in the driving experience NA vs. forced induction...

I haven't towed with it at all and my dually has been neglected so it's not really apples to apples.

That being said, the 90 with 3.55 gears and a turbo has significantly more pep than the 91 with 4.10 gears and no turbo. There's more torque off the line with the 4.10 gears but higher RPMs and the turbo makes up for it, at least empty.

Short answer, turbo it and don't look back.
 

david85

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What year is it?

1985 and newer had some improvements on the engines to reduce the chances of block or head cracks. Older ones are not guaranteed to have problems though. Many have good results with them.

As others said, a turbo is always welcome on a diesel and these are no exception. If you're happy with around 200-220 Hp at the crank (170 stock), the engine will last just fine. I usually recommend 10PSI peak and 7 PSI sustained for a non-studded 6.9IDI. Others have reported 10-15 without problems but I prefer more conservative limits (not everyone has time to do a headgasket job on the weekend). Even 5 PSI will be enough to make a noticeable improvement while also reducing EGTs.

If you have the time to put some work into the engine, My advice would be:

1. do a compression check first.
2. As a minimum, refresh the head gaskets and install ARP head studs. Unless you're building a custom monster turbo setup, you'll never need to worry about head gaskets ever again.
3. Inspect the bottom end, valvetrain and cylinder bores. Most of us would rebuild at this point anyway, but it's not always necessary. If you want to get practice rebuilding engines, this isn't a bad one to start with, but there are some things that can get you in trouble if you're not careful. Piston to valve running clearance is one example. Having oil seals that are too tight on the valve stems is another (causes premature valve guide wear)
4. If a rebuild is not planned this time, at least get a reseal kit for the engine.

5. And lastly, if the compression check is good (minimum 400PSI), you could simply throw a turbo kit on there, keep the boost at mild levels and just enjoy it. It all depends on how much you want to spend and if you plan to keep the truck for many years to come. I didn't honestly think I would still have my truck after more than 10 years (it didn't look much better than yours when I bought it), yet here I am, still driving it.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I didn't honestly think I would still have my truck after more than 10 years (it didn't look much better than yours when I bought it), yet here I am, still driving it.
That's the thing about these old girls. They'll probably still be going after most of the newer ones are being recycled into beer cans.
 

TahoeTom

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If you need to bore or hone cylinders, you will need to remove the piston cooling jets aka "oil squirters". Block serial # 237016 and later the jets were bolted in. Before that they were pressed in using a template and factory tool. I don't believe the pressed in jets are to be reused, and there may not be a source for new ones. This could be a deal breaker if you have an older block.
 

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