rear disks--possible inexpensive option

subway

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i am not a fan of drums, had mine fall apart on me when i went 4 wheeling in some nasty water. the rear brakes wore out so fast because the grit stayed in the drum that the linkages fell apart and tore things up on the drive home. that was fun driving up the skukyle (sp) expressway with no rear brakes.:rolleyes:

i am all for disks, then i dont have to deal with any of that crap.
 

Diesel JD

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Good question...I wondered the same thing. maybe he meant to say dana 61 or Dana 70. You remember jahlun on the other site had a 61 in the rear so he could run the 3.31 gears.
 

spencnaz

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If drums are better then why put disks on the front of ANY car truck or whatever where 90% of your stopping power is? Sorry man.

Now the comments about self energizing are correct but they are NOT better than disks for stopping power.

Calvin

The primary reason for discs on the front of car is to combat brake fade from heat.

Before discs became standard equipment on cars, front drums had huge cooling fins on them to dissipate heat energy when the brakes were applied. Disc brakes aren't used on semis though, at least not yet.
 

flatlander

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Well what I'm wondering is what is Barney doing with a Dana 60? Doesn't his truck have a 70, or Ford 10.25 like everybody else?

According to the serial number stamped on the right axle housing, I have a 60.
 

G. Mann

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I have a drum brake question, seems like this thread might be a good place to get the answer.

I bought a new set of drums [brand new, off ebay], went to install them and discovered the hub diameter that goes on the inside of the full float is to small. Went to Napa and called up a new set of drums.. same diameter.

Every other dimension on the drums measures the same as the drums now on the truck. It's an 85, F250, SRW. No parts house I've been to yet has drums that fit that axle. What the hell do I have?

The drums mount on the back side of the float hubs, the lug bolts go through the drums from the back side. You have to remove the float hubs to get the drums off, if that tells you anything.

Anybody know what I have for an axle? What do I ask for when I order drums, cause no parts man so far seems to know from the books.

TIA..
 

Diesel JD

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Curious. I had the same problem last summer when I did my axle swap. I bought a used F350 10.25 axle from SLE215 and the axle was great...but the auto parts store couldn't seem to sell me a set that would fit right, so I wound up using the ones off my old 10.25 and they fit fine. I hope they are not tedious to find for 10.25 axles. In an 85 it could be either a 10.25 sterling or a Dana 70. I never have heard of a Dana 60 being used as a rear axle in our application... but Barney obviously knows his stuff, it was surely not Original equipment like that... but axle and gear swaps are common on trucks,
 

Exekiel69

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I drive both versions and the disc stops better, if it is cold that must be for the first mile bc after that they must the warm right?

+ 1 set on the 10.25 dually.
 

krawlr

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I have a drum brake question, seems like this thread might be a good place to get the answer.

I bought a new set of drums [brand new, off ebay], went to install them and discovered the hub diameter that goes on the inside of the full float is to small. Went to Napa and called up a new set of drums.. same diameter.

Every other dimension on the drums measures the same as the drums now on the truck. It's an 85, F250, SRW. No parts house I've been to yet has drums that fit that axle. What the hell do I have?

The drums mount on the back side of the float hubs, the lug bolts go through the drums from the back side. You have to remove the float hubs to get the drums off, if that tells you anything.

Anybody know what I have for an axle? What do I ask for when I order drums, cause no parts man so far seems to know from the books.

TIA..

Go to www.google.com and type in "axle identification". You'll get a bunch of pages with pics to help you ID what you have. No single one seems to be complete but work your way down the google hits and you're bound to find the answer you need.
 

swampdigger

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Well boys, I think I'm gonna do a rear disc conversion on the cheap. After pricing out how much shoes + drums + springs + self adjusters cost, I think I can do a rear disc conversion much cheaper.

Check out these brackets: http://www.ubmachine.com/caliper.html

That's about 20 bucks for the brackets, which uses cheapo (no e-brake) Chev front calipers, and then apparently Dodge 3/4 rotors work nicely.
 

Full Monte

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Well boys, I think I'm gonna do a rear disc conversion on the cheap. After pricing out how much shoes + drums + springs + self adjusters cost, I think I can do a rear disc conversion much cheaper.

Check out these brackets: http://www.ubmachine.com/caliper.html

That's about 20 bucks for the brackets, which uses cheapo (no e-brake) Chev front calipers, and then apparently Dodge 3/4 rotors work nicely.

Sounds like a good topic for a technical article with photos. How about it?
 

sassyrel

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rangerwreck--which of those brackets fit the 10.25 sterling???? annndddddddd--id NEVER used clamp on brackets--thats a accident waiting to happen---also--where find info on that site what fits what????
 
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