Radiator size for 6.9L

[6.9poweredscout]

ok if you haven't read, i'm putting a 6.9L in my Scout II...ALL IH POWER BABY!

well a scout doesn't have the grille space a f-250 has, does anybody have the measurement of the rad. the height, width and thickness. i'll put up the size of my rad support, and i just installed a 2" body lift so i can fit a little bigger radiator in it. mabe with the help of you guys i can have a regular or aluminum radiator built to fit my Scout and cool my 6.9 properly. i'm also adding a turbocharger, i don't know if that'll bump up the temps too. i WILL tow and go to the truck pulls with this truck.

thanks,
-Jon

 

[Diesel JD]

Hey not sure on the dimensions, if no one else gets back to you on that in the next day or two I will. The turbo will cause higher water temps if the truck is worked and the weather is hot, but I imagine you won't be towing any bulldozers or big travel trailers or heavy ag equipment either. The engine won't be working near as hard in the Scout as in a typical F250/350 then. If you do find you can put a standard F-series radiator in I doubt you'll have any problem, but if you do you could probably have the Scout radiator made into a custom aluminum super cooling radiator like RLDSL did with the one from his truck. How much cpacity does the Scout diesel radiator have? We have around 8-9 gallons in our stock radiators. Good luck,
JD

 

[6.9poweredscout]

well the gas v-8 scouts ( same radiator as the diesel) hold about 4.5 gallons, depending on the 3-4 core radiator. i can make a taller radiator fit with the body lift, mabe even add another oil cooler (tranny cooler type mabe?). i plan on towing an utility tailer with another scout on it and the occasional truck pull, or dragging the local cocky heavy chebby around. it'll see frequent highway and town driving, i would love to take long trips in it and possibly tow my off-roading scout around. lets put it this way, a replacement 4-core radiator runs about $520, so i'd probably be going with a custom rad mabe specifically for my scout.

-Jon

 

[Diesel JD]

For that kind of money I bet you can get something better, look into what RLDSL did with getting the aluminum radiator.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

I'd definately look into a custom Al rad.
The IDI/T builds a LOT of heat during hard pulls/long grades

 

[lucky]

The issue with rads on these trucks is not enough tubes to take the large flow from the waterpump. Orignial rads did not have enough tubes so the pressure built up in the upper tank causing the seams on the upper tank to leak. Ford at first used a restricted flow thermostate to cut the flow rate to the undersized original rads. Most aftermarket rads have more tubes to allow for the big flow of hot coolant from the engine (lots if towing). This is also the reason to stick with an original equipment thermosate. Good luck on your conversion. Hope this is of some help.

 

[Agnem]

The issue with rads on these trucks is not enough tubes to take the large flow from the waterpump. Orignial rads did not have enough tubes so the pressure built up in the upper tank causing the seams on the upper tank to leak. .

I'd be interested to hear what evidence you have to support that claim. My 83 is still running the original rad, and hasn't had a leak in soon 25 years, not to mention never overheating. I think it more likely that people chose to ignore the cooling system, and most folks buying second hand trucks are inheriting years of neglect.

 

[icanfixall]

So... Lucky, where did you find this information? It sounds like its beleiveable but I need to know more. These water pumps are designed to circulate 70 gpm at 3000 rpm. The thermostat starts to open at 192 degrees + 0 or -7 degrees. BTW, the oil pumps capacity is 18.2 gpm at 3000 rpm.

 

[riotwarrior]

I would suggest looking at Rodney red http://www.rodneyred.com/ which is what RLDSL did. Seems like he knows his stuff real good. Can custom build a rad for ya.

I am trying to find a stock narrow rad myself to get some measurements from so I can determine if the intercooler will interfere with it.

My project Bronco is similar but likely a tad easier because I can use mostly all Ford parts. I am in the same boat though with the slow 4x4ing = poor air over rad, along with towing but not huge loads, maybe some bogging....sink that frontend...

Back to the rad the AL rad RLDSL has large tubes that equal great flow. I too may have to get a custom rad built and with the strong Canadian dollar, it will be much easier.

Good luck with yer project!

 

[6.9poweredscout]

WHILE I'M AT IT!!! on the topic of cooling, does anybody know if there's a setup for a fixed fan for the 6.9 waterpump? i'd like to ditch the clutch fan, never had any luck with them, at least i know with a fixed fan it's spinning as long as the motor is running, i had several friends and myself overheat due to faulty and broken fan clutches. i called flex-a-lite and they didn't have a threaded fixed fan adaptor big enough for a 6.9 w/p.


thanks,
-Jon

 

[lucky]

Source Ford rad problems: largest rad repair shop in area, owners experience since Ford used IH. Look at your upper tank, see if it is pushed out on the inside of top tank near solder joint. It shoutd be flat not convex. I have two. If so, they will leak soon, along that seam. You can solder them but they will push out again when worked hard. Work, not waltzing around empty from one stop light to the next.

I'm hope my experience and that of a pro in rads will help our member get the right rad for his very interesting project.

 

[riotwarrior]

WHILE I'M AT IT!!! on the topic of cooling, does anybody know if there's a setup for a fixed fan for the 6.9 waterpump? i'd like to ditch the clutch fan, never had any luck with them, at least i know with a fixed fan it's spinning as long as the motor is running, i had several friends and myself overheat due to faulty and broken fan clutches. i called flex-a-lite and they didn't have a threaded fixed fan adaptor big enough for a 6.9 w/p.


thanks,
-Jon

Perhaps a medium duty truck may have a clutchless fan. Pinning the fan can be done but in a post elseware the idea of the fan's weight and inertia can be somewhat daunting when the engine shuts down and may lead to eventual failure

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19203&highlight=pinning

 

[Agnem]

That fan consumes at least 10HP. Are you sure you want to give that up all the time? The clutch driven fan works great so long as it is in good condition.

 

[2manydsls]

Rad info

I bought a new 83 Ford diesel when they first came out. After a couple of years, I decided I needed a 4X4 and traded for the 84 in my sig.
The 83 regular cab had a huge radiator. Approx. 6 inches wider than the one in my 84 super cab, but it was the same height and thickness (both with factory AC). The 84 uses spacer mounting brackets to make up the difference. (one on each side) This is the same radiator (smaller one) thats in both of the 90's in my sig.
Also, I've never had a problem with expanding tanks (yet) knocking on desk. It would seem to me that a functioning radiator cap and unplugged coolant overflow system should take care of that problem.
Ross

 

[Agnem]

Actually, the radiator in your 83 is not as tall as the one in the 84, and the difference was probably A/C. It seems they went to what I call the tall narrow rad when the truck has A/C, versus the short wide rad without. My 83 has the wide one, while the Moosestang (an 84 F-350 with A/C) has the narrow one. However, all that said, I do feel that the wide radiator was a superior design, as it has much better airflow characteristics and not as much surface area behind the bumper.