Question on Dana 60s

Rossroams

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Progress on the Axle so far. Springs have slightest positive arch, and retain decent flex. Next will be a RSK from Sky, ill probably just have it installed along with my alignment at the local shop. I can't justify SD springs and modifying a PMF kit for this truck. :)

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u2slow

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Next will be a RSK from Sky, ill probably just have it installed along with my alignment at the local shop. I can't justify SD springs and modifying a PMF kit for this truck. :)

I have a difficult time justifying shop rate for an alignment. Been using a tape measure for my solid-axle trucks for the last 20 years. Save some $$$ and do both yourself.
 

Thewespaul

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I have a difficult time justifying shop rate for an alignment. Been using a tape measure for my solid-axle trucks for the last 20 years. Save some $$$ and do both yourself.
Agreed, most the time you’re just paying for a toe and go anyways
 

YJMike92

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I will show my ignorance here.
It appears shackle reversal is putting the shackle in the original solid position at the rear of the spring and vice-versa? That being the case can you mount the shackle to the original rear spring mount on the frame?
 

gfemling

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So I forgot to show you the Dumpster Fire’s new lift. SKY 2” RSK...

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I am in process of doing the Sky RSK on pig-nose (‘87 F250 w/ D60) and using ‘99-‘04 SuperDuty “U” springs. Pictures in above post appears to be using original (non-SD) springs since the frame bracket doesn’t extend beyond front of frame. I will confess this has been a PROJECT! As for the front portion, in my experience/ opinion, to do it correctly requires removal of significant front members- grill, lights, bumper, lower valance, intercooler (if turbo intercooler), a/c condenser, radiator and radiator support cross member.... This is to allow access to install added inner frame plate which in Sky’s “abbreviated” (cryptic- okay nearly misleading but perhaps unintentionally as probably haven’t sold many of these??) installation instructions calls a weld-on item and simply says at end of step 6: “at this point we usually run a stitch weld along the top of the inner frame bracket” but makes no mention that on the pug nose frames, the top of the frame reinforcing brackets don’t meet up with anything to weld to!! On later frames where frame horns are a straight box section, maybe this is true but not in the pug nose frames. And my conclusion was that not attaching these substantial brackets to known-to-be-weak front frame horns with more than the bolts would be unwise. So if you launch into this, be advised it is more of a project than reading of the provided instructions hints at- at least to do it correctly in my humble opinion ;-)
And really hoping it’s ride is much improved after this much exercise!
 
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