Question For Steering Experts

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I had difficulty greasing my extreme right tie-rod end, the one next to the right tire.

It refused to take grease.

I removed the alemite and it was fine, no blockage there.

I poked and twisted around an ice-pick in the hole where the alemite goes.

I heated the housing with a propane bottle torch, and still no go.

Then, I heard a POP and the thin metal cover popped out of the casting in a small area; the grease then squirted out of this seperation.

All my tie-rod ends were replaced about a year ago; so, it can't have much over 100,000 miles on it.

I don't think this has created a dangerous situation; but, I wanted some expert input on the situation.

Otherwise, the joint is tight.

Thanks.
 

towcat

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just for safety's sake, I'd change out the tie-rod. In days past, the bearing material in tie-rod cups was bronze. these days, its a high chance its nylon. torches usually will kill the nylon ones. so, outside of not taking grease being and excuse to change it out, the torch provided you another.:eek:
 

NJKen

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If its not taking grease and the zirk is OK the joint is already bad. Dried up grease mixed with dirt is what most likely caused this. If that is all that is lubing the joint its days are numbered. If you carefully count the number of threads it takes to spin it out and spin the new one in the same count your alignment should be just as good as it was before surgery.
Best of luck
Ken
 

sle2115

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All my tie-rod ends were replaced about a year ago; so, it can't have much over 100,000 miles on it.

Is that possible, 100,000 in a year? Man, I thought I drove a bunch of miles. At any rate, if it is a year, it may even be under warranty. I wouldn't mention the miles though, but I assume this to be a posting issue and to be 10,000.

Ditto! Change it. Count the turns and re-install.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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sle2115 said:
Is that possible, 100,000 in a year? Man, I thought I drove a bunch of miles. At any rate, if it is a year, it may even be under warranty. I wouldn't mention the miles though, but I assume this to be a posting issue and to be 10,000.

I ain't found no way to get rich asittin' aroun' tha house.

Anyways, all them numbers in the dash comes up all 0's pretty often.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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The puzzling thing is that the dumb thing took grease good a couple weeks ago.
 

icanfixall

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Gee... Lets see. Spend $30.00 now or wait. Maybe it will break and then you will be spending money to really fit something because you ran it off the road maybe hurting yourself or someboy else. Come on, fit it before something happens you can't take back. Sorries don't count in the world anymore/ Do they...
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I just looked at replacement tie-rod ends at Advance.

They have two choices that fit; one is a TRW for $34.94 and the other is a Tread-Saver for $14.94.

Both have the same identical part number and look identical.

Is it worth the extra twenty for the TRW; or, is the less expensive one the same part, minus the advertising expenses??

Twenty years ago, "you get what you pay for" had sound meaning; but, in this day and age of cut-throat marketing, that does not hold true.

Both are probably made in Mexico, or Thailand; so, is it worth the extra cash for the higher priced part??

Thanks.
 

towcat

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If you are running commercially, I'd get the TRW. If any chance down the road anything ever happens the investigator will have a harder time pinning it on you. To me its worth the extra $$$ to CYA.
 

NJKen

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I usualt try to buy the one made in America. In this case though you are probably rite about both being made in another country. If the TRW is a US part I would buy it. If they are both made elsewhere buy the cheap one. Send as few of your $$$ out of the country as possible.
Ken
 

icanfixall

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If it were for the wife... Buy the cheap one. :rotflmao Not really. :backoff Otherwise buy Moog and be done with it. Be very carefull about buying made in USA. Japan has a city they renamed Usa. So if it says made in usa it might mean Usa Japan and you may be buying junk :D .
 

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