Push button start help

Brandon Crislip

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How can I get wire through the firewall easiest way? What is simplest way to wire it?

Also truck shudders real bad sometimes like it is choking out? I'm wandering from some of Mel's comments if it is leaky injectors... any thoughts?
 

chillman88

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How can I get wire through the firewall easiest way? What is simplest way to wire it?

Also truck shudders real bad sometimes like it is choking out? I'm wandering from some of Mel's comments if it is leaky injectors... any thoughts?

I was thinking about it myself. I would find the ignition switch on the column and run the stock wires to a switch. But my way would still require a key to run, the push button would only engage the starter.
 

Brandon Crislip

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I'm sure it's the small red and green wire, but how would I wire that? New ignition switch, bypassed fusible link with fuse... key works great except for start... what would cause this the actuator?
 

chillman88

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Most likely. In my case oddly enough the gear behind the ignition cylinder was bad.

What year is your truck?

I can look into the wiring. Not sure off the top of my head.
 

FoolhardyIDI

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When I did mine. I put the wire in where the cruise control vacuum hose goes through the firewall.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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How can I get wire through the firewall easiest way? What is simplest way to wire it?

Maybe I just missed it, but I didn't see which year-model of truck you are working on; on my 1985, there is a large rubber plug through the firewall a few inches away from the brake master-cylinder; I have about a hundred wires now ran through mine.

A "start" button actually requires two wires through it, as the start button merely completes the solenoid activation circuit.

You could accomplish it with a single wire through the firewall, but you would need to access a reliable dedicated HOT source inside the cab.

I like to add a SPST (simple two-terminal ON/OFF) toggle-switch in line with the push-button such that the toggle-switch must be ON for the push-button to work; this adds an increased measure of safety and security.

To simplify wiring this, forget about the factory wiring as it will be irrelevant.

On the solenoid/relay, there should be a single factory wire attached to one of the smaller terminals; this should be the wire to the key-switch; to make certain, ascertain that the truck is not in gear and use a test wire from battery HOT to touch this terminal and see if the starter engages.

Leave the factory wire dis-connected and attach one of your starter button wires to this terminal.

One of the larger solenoid terminals is always HOT; it will be the one with more than a single wire attached; one of these wires will come directly from the battery; use your test-light to determine that this is indeed the always HOT terminal; this is where you attach the remaining starter button wire via a 20-amp inline fuse.

Now, if your inline toggle-switch is ON, pushing the button should engage the starter.

I very much prefer a push-button starter engagement over one being controlled by the key-switch; I very much prefer a shut-down cable as well; everything being controlled by a single key-switch was implemented so that any idiot could figure out how to drive; hence is why there are so many idiots on the road --- it was a terrible mistake on the part of the manufacturers.
 
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Macrobb

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As far as factory wiring issues go, remember that there is a clutch safety switch(on a manual), or neutral safety switch(on an auto). These, or the connectors thereof could easily be your problem.

As far as overrides go - one momentary contact switcy needed. Run one wire to the small terminal on the fender well starter relay, the other to a source of power.

If you use switched/ignition power for the push button, it only cranks with the key on.
If you use battery power, you can crank with the key off. Both ways have upsides and downsides.​
 
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Brandon Crislip

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Thanks guys..got it done and love It! Anybody got a simple walkthrough to disable factory glow plug, and have manual flip switch wired in? And maybe
 

Brandon Crislip

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Thanks Everyone! Anybody got a good walkthrough on disable factory glow plugs and wire in manual flip switch? And bypass slip plug for the large gauge yellow wires powering relay
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Thanks Everyone! Anybody got a good walkthrough on disable factory glow plugs and wire in manual flip switch? And bypass slip plug for the large gauge yellow wires powering relay

My thoughts are that the glow-plug push-button would need be a pretty good one; like the starter button, it would also need be a momentary switch as in ON only so long as you are pressing the button.

I may be missing something, but my thoughts are that you would address it in the same manner as you did the starter solenoid.

Nothing I own anymore has glow-plugs, so I am not very familiar with the system and you should take my advice with a grain of sodium chloride.
 
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chillman88

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And bypass slip plug for the large gauge yellow wires powering relay

I personally ran a 4ga wire from the battery through a 200amp inline fuse directly to the glow plug relay. Those wires got too hot for me to hook them back up.
 

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