Pulled my first idi engine yesterday.

[cpdenton]

U-pull-it of Conway. Right off I-40 exit 127. About a mile east of the interstate. Just opened in September. Really good folks that run it. Another thing that caught my eye there was an 88 model Dually, gas burner, but it had 17.5 inch wheels. First time I saw any of those out in the public.

 

[cpdenton]

wow you pulled an engine in one afternoon! thats pretty good wrenching.--Rob

I didn't have my air tools either. No jacks allowed in the yard either.....that was the biggest challenge to me. I do have to admit for the sake of time, some hoses that would no be re-used were just cut instead of removed the proper way. I don't like doing it that way, but I had to have it out by 5 or I would be locked in the gate! It was a LOT of work for sure.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i have heard that the ONLY thing the trans-command does is increase line pressure in the trans, which if raised to high on a stock trans will destroy the trans in short order. I agree with towcat, if you want a firmer/later shift then just adjust the TPS. You could also get a whole new computer for the trans by getting the bauman(sp?) controller. that does away with all the sensors that the factory TCM monitors and makes the shift strategy off of.

 

[cpdenton]

So, I went back to the yard today and pulled the complete banks exhaust system off the truck. I thought it would be easier to get the truck back on the road after the turbo install. Does anyone have any experience with these exhaust systems? It appears to be 3 inch from the down pipe to the muffler, and 4 inch out the back from the muffler. All stainless tubing too.

 

[riotwarrior]

So, I went back to the yard today and pulled the complete banks exhaust system off the truck. I thought it would be easier to get the truck back on the road after the turbo install. Does anyone have any experience with these exhaust systems? It appears to be 3 inch from the down pipe to the muffler, and 4 inch out the back from the muffler. All stainless tubing too.

Very, Very sweet indeed....NICE SCORE!

 

[icanfixall]

Throw out the muffler. The turbo will keeps the straight pipe noise or sound down and it wont be bad at all... till you start really hauling a load and then any diesel engine will sound like its working.. For most it music to our ears..

 

[cpdenton]

Pic of the serial number

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Pic of the oil feed port at the rear of the intake area.

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I went over and did some work on my spare engine.


I think I have a turbo block......Can someone confirm the serial number for me? Am I right?

 

[icanfixall]

A turbo block serial number starts at 1,116,331 and goes up from there. You have the 109,992nd turbo block made. Just looking at the oil ports and seeing they are 1/4 inch plug instead of the na 6.9 or 7.3 blocks having the 1/8th inch plugs in all the oil gally ports.. Nice find...

 

[cpdenton]

Well, I think this engine will have a thorough refreshing and this will be the block that ends up in my truck. Going to get it opened up soon and see what shape the bearings and pistons are in. I plan on having the heads worked over good too. Hopefully this engine hasn't been worked over either. All the rtv squeezing out of the gasket areas still have gray paint on them. I am hoping it is all original inside.

 

[cpdenton]

Holy old thread batman!

I finally have this engine I pulled apart. I know I have the engine block from the correct year, but I don't think I have turbo rods. I haven't mic'd them, but they are almost right at 1 1/8 of an inch. Nowhere near 1.3 inch.

On another note. The bottom end of this engine was CLEAN. No scoring or wear through on the bearings or crank. Crank journals still have a nice polish on them. You can't feel any rough spots at all. Cylinders do show some vertical wear. You can't really see any homing anymore. Overall, I have a nice candidate for a rebuild.

Here's some pics of the rods casting numbers.

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[BDCarrillo]

Turbo rods have a few differences shown in this photo:

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[junk]

Truthfully unless you really need the larger rod I wouldn't worry about the turbo rods. Plenty of turbo trucks running around on normal n/a sized rods. Now if your building a 30PSI boost monster engine. You may want beefier rods.

 

[cpdenton]

I am not building one of those crazy HP engines. I want solid, RElIABLE power that will take some from one end of the country to the other. There aren't too many of those high HP monsters out there still running....

That said, I wouldn't mind studding and pushing a few more than the 10 PSI I am right now. Might be nice to clean up some of that smoke. Balance the rotating assembly, freshen the heads. Cam, Yada Yada yada.

Anyone know off hand the thread size and pitch of the block bolts used to mount to an engine stand? ( just me being lazy!)

 

[riotwarrior]

1/2" NC bolts IIRC for block to stand...but don't quote me..

Justin is best price on studs, great service...hand delivered mine!

Mild port job, balance job and some studs you should be golden...

I don't know bout balancing a DMF though...local shop says ????? don't know if we can do that..guess Ifn I get my ***** together tonight I'll take one with me for tomorrow to have them look at it.

 

[junk]

Yeah I was thinking the bolts are 1/2-13. I don't bolt the engine stand to the adapter plate. I bolt it straight to the engine block. Local guy had the adapter plate break when he bolted it to a stand. Thus dropping his 7.3 to the ground breaking the crank.