Pressure Plate Release Arm

[Duke57]

I did a search for this issue and did not find anything so posting: Driving home yesterday, clutch all of a sudden would not release and clutch pedal went almost to floor.
Did make it home by shifting meshing the gears adjusting speed of engine. worked good and hard pressed clutch all the way to floor to get partial release at stop lights.

Looked at clutch thinking pressure plate was bad because inspecting slave cylinder, the rod was all the way extended.

Then I looked at pressure plate release arm....the pivot point wore right through the arm and the pivot ball is on the other side of arm.
I have to pull out arm and weld a new pivot socket.

has anyone ever had this happen to them?

Mike

 

[Duke57]

Here is a not a too great picture of the arm

 

[Duke57]

That release arm is hardened to a certain hardness I imagine so there may be an small issue with welding a new socket because of the heat might take the temper from the area being built out.
Will be tigging the repair.

Can't really do anything now as to get to that arm i have to pull trans. I cooked up a couple of fried eggs in kerrigold butter and thouhgt about it.
I tried knocking off the arm the arm but the ball is tight and since that pivot ball can come out of the bell housing, it popped out still stuck into the arm. Time to switch vehicles and deal with this later. going to put a couple of washers on the stem of that post to see if I can get enough clearance to disengage clutch.

have a good one

 

[Black dawg]

Sometimes can get the clutch fork out, and back in depending on the style of throwout bearing.

 

[rreegg]

Dang sorry to hear. Am having a difficult time fully understanding the issue - slave cylinder rod is fully extended and issue with clutch fork disconnecting from release bearing?
If this is the original clutch assy might consider replacing the whole thing.. including the clutch fork

 

[Nero]

Dang sorry to hear. Am having a difficult time fully understanding the issue - slave cylinder rod is fully extended and issue with clutch fork disconnecting from release bearing?
If this is the original clutch assy might consider replacing the whole thing.. including the clutch fork

The peg that the clutch fork pivots on has worn through the fork. Frankly, kind of an interesting failure... It appears serviceable, but the part has been discontinued.

 

[Duke57]

Yes, that ball wore completely through. It is a predictable out come I guess. I have had that truck 8 years driving non stop south Florida stop and go doing service calls. I replaced the clutch complete 5 years ago, the spot where the ball sat was shiny.
And it did have the squeak for a long time every time I pushed the clutch in. I used to spray it with oil to quiet the weak
Have to pull it all down now, no way around it. If the engine didn't run so good I would sell it off!
Replaced injectors in October 2022 from Justin at R&D, THAT, made the truck run so good I kept it. Still runs good. So I guess I won't quit repairing it.

 

[Duke57]

Sometimes can get the clutch fork out, and back in depending on the style of throwout bearing.

That would be great but it did have these clips....I'll be looking at it again when I get home from work.

 

[onetonjohn]

Pull it out. Replace the fork, piviot and entire clutch. They don't do that for nothing. Probably really stiff pedal. That's why we crack bell housings in ZF, and firewalls too. Grease the pivot with high temp grease, run T/O bearing dry if it's the plastic type. Also check the surface the T/O bearing rides for galling and make sure it's not binding up.

 

[Duke57]

Pull it out. Replace the fork, piviot and entire clutch. They don't do that for nothing. Probably really stiff pedal. That's why we crack bell housings in ZF, and firewalls too. Grease the pivot with high temp grease, run T/O bearing dry if it's the plastic type. Also check the surface the T/O bearing rides for galling and make sure it's not binding up.

I agree completely. Now to find a used fork.