Poly Bronco fuel tank install ?'s

kas83

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2009
Posts
596
Reaction score
9
Location
Plover, WI
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


This is what I'm dealing with. Got these with the truck, was told it's a 30 gallon tank out of a Bronco. How do I go about putting this in the truck? The bed will be off, I have to have it off for the gooseneck hitch, so I'll pull the old one out the top. Is it just a straightforward swap, or do I need to modify the sender and pickup/return to work with my 85 F350? Also, will that skidplate work to hold the tank in a pickup, or do I need to modify it or the stock straps to put it in? Thanks very much in advance.
 

Diesel JD

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Posts
6,148
Reaction score
7
Location
Gainesville, FL
I think you lose the stock spare tire location and it drops right in. I'm not to sure about the sender or supports.
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
Hold on for a day and I'll tell you exactly what's needed to do this. But I'm not quite sure if you can pull the tank from the top, as there are straps on top of it too, and those slide into place from the bottom up... I'll be installing mine from under the truck.
 

Diesel JD

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Posts
6,148
Reaction score
7
Location
Gainesville, FL
Man I don't know how it is in later trucks, but I'm under the impression that the bronco tank replaces the rear tank in 80-86 trucks. Just replacing the stock tank was.....evil my dad and I did this from underneath. If it was easier I might be looking at this swap instead of an in bed big tank.
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
JD, what's so hard about it? I've had my rear tank halfway down twice already, it's just a few bolts and hose clamps and two fuel lines...
 

Agnem

Using the Force!
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Posts
17,067
Reaction score
386
Location
Delta, PA
Pulling it from the top will not be an advantage. You would end up taking loose two straps that ultimately you will not want to take loose. You should be able to do it all from underneath.
 

gonecrazyi

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2008
Posts
3,276
Reaction score
3
Location
florida
I think my rear tank is identical to that on. Mine doesnt have straps it has two plates that are held up by all thread from underneath the tank. As for the sending unit, mines always been a pain to seal so I took it out until I get a chance to rtv the thing.

It really feels like you never run out when the dang thing is full!
 

jam0o0

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2010
Posts
382
Reaction score
4
Location
houston, tx
there is something wrong with that fuel sender/pump mounting. in a bronco it shouldn't look like that. i haven't seen a diesel tank yet to know if it's right for those.
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
Nothing wrong with the location, that's exactly where they sit in the Broncos.

About the straps, Gonecrazy you probably have the factory truck braces under the tank, while for a Bronco you can get either that big skidplate, or two straps that look muck like those holding the truck's front tank in place... We shall see in a few hours now, hopefully.
 

kas83

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2009
Posts
596
Reaction score
9
Location
Plover, WI
look at the pump mounting ring. the plastic one shown has some hacked in sheet metal screws and tabs. those should not be there.



I've questioned the tabs myself, as I've done truck tanks on my previous IDI's and haven't had this setup. I'm just wondering if it will work out as it is. I'll do the tank from the bottom, but since I will have the bed off, it should go very smooth being able to hookup the lines and hold it from the top. I'll have room to work for once.
 

plywood

Recovered N/A
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Posts
952
Reaction score
8
Location
Portland Oregon
I posted this on another forum back when I had it fresher in my head.

"Your best bet is to buy the plastic tank with the 3 5/8" hole.
Look for it on MTS Company, L.C. and Bronco Graveyard
Reason is that larger hole is what our senders fit in, they are applicable to the fuel injected Broncos with a return line.
You will want the straps from the Bronco and may have to still do some fabbing.
The fill hose won't quite reach so you will either have to extend the fill neck or get a longer hose.
The sender from your rig will be needed and you will have to extend the pickup and lengthen the float rod or use the one from the Bronco if possible.
I would advise pulling the bed."
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
Okay, well I just spend the better half of the day dealing with this mess, and here's what I found out:

1) The truck fuel pickup assembly does not directly drop in the Bronco tank, the clocking of its locating tabs is 180 degrees off - I chose to cut one if the tabs off, thus allowing me to install the sender at only 30 degrees off position, which is no big deal.

2) The truck sender is mounted at an angle, the Bronco sender is straight upright - when you go to swap the Bronco float and arm to the truck sender it turns out the float hits the back wall of the tank halfway through its travel - I bent the return line the sender sits on so the sender gets upright like the Bronco sender is, then the float works like it should. Some tweaking of the bends in the float arm may still be necessary to make the thing behave like you want it - I made mine so its lowest position is a good inch and a half above the tank's bottom, which means when the gauge hits "E" I'll still have a few gallons left.

3) extending the fuel pickup tube - oh what a ***** that one was, depending on how you do it you may end up unable to install the whole thing in the tank due to both the float arm and the pickup tube being stupid-long. I had to redo mine twice, cause the compression fitting wouldn't seal right the first time around - second attempt was with a Swagelok fitting and as expected that sealed good. I kept the shower head at the bottom of the whole thing, as it was in very good shape.

4) fuel fill hose - that was right on the money as far as length goes, but the diameter of the truck hose is smaller than the neck of the Bronco tank. You can force the truck hose on the Bronco tank neck, but it's a pain - I had the tank against the rear wheel and was leaning on the hose quit heavy to make it slip over the fill neck

5) straps and such - bronco tank is not as long as the truck one, so if you keep your truck-specific top straps the tank will try to slide fore-aft on you as you install it. What I did was remove the truck-specific top straps, and installed the Bronco-specific straps in their place, they ensure the tank will stay right in the middle of the space available for it between the two truck crossmembers. Now this is where it gets interesting - for bottom straps you have several choice, you can reuse the truck specific ones with a foot long of allthread rod at each corner, or you can use the factory Bronco skid plate and add a new crossmember to truck frame for that skid plate to bolt up to in the rear, or you can do something custom - I reused the truck-specific top straps and extended then by about a foot, put some new bends in them, and that's what holds my tank in right now, looks and fits pretty decent actually.

Also if you haven't done the rollover valve mod, now's a good time to do it. On another note, the bronco sucks fuel from the front center section f the tank, there's no real sump like diesels have in the middle of the tank bottom. Which would mean that if you're low on fuel and start pulling up a grade you may airlock the engine...
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
You remove the valve, install an angle fitting, ad run a 1/2" or larger vent hose all the way up to the filler neck on the fender, where you weld/braze on a fitting and you hook up the vent hose to that. It allows air from the tank to be purged much faster during fill up, as with the factory setup foaming of fuel can often prevent being able to run the pump nozzle wide open. I also have the fillers opened up for use with big-truck pumps, at which point the rollover valve mod is my only way of purging the tanks - actually 1/2" hose is somewhat small for the big pumps, but I can still use them just fine if I manually keep their metering valve at half-open...
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
93,030
Posts
1,156,235
Members
26,618
Latest member
Nathanelliott44

Members online

Top