PLEASE HELP! fuel tank issue

[mikepotts]

ive had a leak from the rear tank on the 92 f250 for a while, well it sprung loose today while at work... long story short, i got the old one out and a new tank, i noticed the pickup is just a straight tube to the bottom of the tank but it looks like there was something on the bottom of the tube... then i noticed a rubber grommett looking thing floating in the bottom, it appears that it might have been attached to the tube, allowing some fuel to trap in place for the tube to pickup. does this sound familiar to anyone? if so, what do i do, this thing is destroyed, there will be no reusing it.

thanks in advance guys!

 

[mikepotts]

i forgot to mention, there was also a piece in the that looked like some sort of checkvalve that must have been made to the grommet thing.

 

[mikepotts]

i just found the part in question on LMC's website, theyre calling it a sending unit strainer...

 

[TronDD]

Sounds like you mean the "shower head" which is known to disintegrate over time. Were you running out of fuel with a 1/4 tank left? Most don't put them back in but rather run a rubber hose to the bottom of the tank with a brass T at the bottom or just a V cut into the hose to prevent it sucking to the bottom.

Tim.

 

[mikepotts]

Sounds like you mean the "shower head" which is known to disintegrate over time. Were you running out of fuel with a 1/4 tank left? Most don't put them back in but rather run a rubber hose to the bottom of the tank with a brass T at the bottom or just a V cut into the hose to prevent it sucking to the bottom.

Tim.

yeah, both tanks were doing it and the rear was leaking, so i got a new rear tank and i actually found the showerheads as you called them (E5TZ 9J306 BA) on ebay new, so i bought two one for front one for rear.

 

[icanfixall]

Shower head break off is a common issue here. We run out of fuel at 1/4 tank or so. Kind of makes a mess of using all the fuel. Replacing the shower heads will work for a time but.. Its unknown how long it takes for th new part to break off again. Did you see the red flapper looking valve on the end of the return line in the fuel level indicator pickup system. If so please do not remove that. It must be in place for the return lines system to operate properly. Sadly you didn't ask questions before you went into this. Had you asked you would have dropped and installed the tank one time. Now your doing it twice.. Or you can just run on the top 3/4 tank of fuel and enjoy it.

 

[mikepotts]

Yeah. I wish i would have had time to research before tearing into this. No biggie, im leaving it apart until the shower heads get here, i can drive the mustang in the meantime. The ones i bought came from a ford dealer and are an OEM part, if they last a few years it will be fine. I was worried about doing the hose mod since the shower head has that little bypass thingy. I realize now it would have been fine... Live and learn. When they mess up i will do the hose trick.

 

[TDI]

I am having the same issues, seems that the fuel gauge is inaccurate and yes it also seems that I run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. Yesterday my rear tank stopped registering at the gauge all together, this happened while I was filling the tank up. SO whats the best way to solve this problem once and for all? Of course now I have two full tanks. I'm about to change the IP, once I do that this will be the next thing.

 

[mikepotts]

i can get some results in a few days when my parts get here, but it seems like other have had good results simply usinga piece of rubber hose with a "V" cut in the bottom.

 

[icanfixall]

BTW that bypass valve on the suction head is a kind of safety item. If the suction screen plugs up or freezes because of water in the tanks you can still run off the bypass. the lift pump suction will overcome the bypass valve. As already posted about the return line red check valve. Make use its on the return line.

 

[HammerDown]

i can get some results in a few days when my parts get here, but it seems like other have had good results simply usinga piece of rubber hose with a "V" cut in the bottom.

Mike, not all rubber fuel hose has the same rating > I don't recall the code but use rubber fuel hose that's rated for 'submersible service'.
I got mine from Napa

 

[mikepotts]

Mike, not all rubber fuel hose has the same rating > I don't recall the code but use rubber fuel hose that's rated for 'submersible service'.
I got mine from Napa

thanks duely noted, hopefully i wont have to worry about that for a while.

 

[ironworker40]

senders

While we are on this subject, whats the deal with these sending units rock auto lists for our trucks. Has anyone used them to repair a sending unit? My front gauge don't work but shower heads must be in place because I have put 18 gallons in it several times. I think my float may have a leak because it will bounce a little. Also I ran it out of fuel and left it for a couple of weeks and when I filled it the gauge came up to 1/2. I have the 19 gallon front tank what type float should be in it, the brass one or the plastic?


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[ryanecvbrown]

Www.lmctruck.com has complete fuel sending units for under $200 if ya wanna go that route. The contacts on the potentiometer wear out and can sometimes be cleaned and contacts adjusted but most cases I've seen the potentiometer, arm and float have to be replaced. I would go with the brass units, not too keen on letting plastic hang out in my fuel. I mean, look at what happens to the "shower heads" and those are plastic. My current floats are brass, not sure if they're OEM or not.

 

[ryanecvbrown]

i can get some results in a few days when my parts get here, but it seems like other have had good results simply usinga piece of rubber hose with a "V" cut in the bottom.

It works but you leave yourself at risk for sucking debris into your supply lines and clogging your FTS valve or worse. I used submersible fuel hose, a brass 1/4" barb with 1/2" straight threads, drilled out the head of a brass cap and installed a screen under the drilled cap. My shower heads disintegrated and clogged my FTS valve, leading to lift pump failure and IP strain. I wound up having to rebuild my entire fuel system from tank pickups to new IP and injectors, also I junked those crappy vinyl hoses and ran fuel rated hose from tanks to lift pump. Both fuel supply lines at the tank had bent over an crimped, causing a supply issue and the broken shower heads sucked up into the crimps and cut my fuel supply down to nothing. On the plus side, my truck runs a helluva lot better with a new IP/ injectors and free-flowing fuel