Pinion Play...

antiqueford

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I got home at 5:30 this morning from a 920 mile trip with a 4 horse trailer attached and this afternoon I was poking around making sure the truck was still in one piece and I noticed the pinion seal/plastic guard thing didn't quite look centered. Sure enough, the pinion had some play in it, around 1/16" in either direction....

What's my next move? From what ive read, the only thing it could really be is wear in the bearings. I really can't afford to have it rebuilt, and I've never rebuilt a rear before. Can the 10.25 be rebuilt without specialized tools? I could possibly recruit some more experienced people for help with the tricky parts, but I don't know anyone with a case spreader or anything.
 

justinray

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Its rather simple, especially if you know how to measure and correct gear backlash. Take lots of pictures throughout the whole process and it should all go back pretty simply. Remove the driveshaft and start disassembling the rearend, holding on to parts that look questionable, then you dont have to worry about knowing the names of the parts. Luck!
 

antiqueford

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I'm a machinist. Not much I can't measure if I know the specs. Speaking of specs, where can I find them? Also, what's the best option for a master rebuild kit?
 

justinray

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Im a Millwright, so same story here, I just try to keep in mind not everyone uses dial indicators and works in .001's everyday.. Im not sure of a master rebuild kit, I'll help look around...
 

antiqueford

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Well I guess here's the benchmark... $290 for the Yukon kit on eBay. I'll definitely shop around first tho.

Should carrier bearings be done, as a "while I'm in there" thing?
 

justinray

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In my opinion, I would inspect it. Clean it. Give em a GOOD lookover, then replace if necessary. No sense in replacing a good part with another.
 

typ4

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How about check the pinion nut first, they like to come loose, mine does so about every 5k miles. a liberal smear of red loctite helps a lot.

But if you do rebuild it get the crush sleeve eliminator kit and then it will not loosen up again.
 

oldmisterbill

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Russ Would you share some information on the crush sleeve eliminator kit? Never heard of it. I had good luck with red locktite new bearing and new crush sleeve. But the carrier is worn out where the splined spider gear fits in it. I have a carrier sitting in my shop. If I ever get to it.
 

icanfixall

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How about check the pinion nut first, they like to come loose, mine does so about every 5k miles. a liberal smear of red loctite helps a lot.

But if you do rebuild it get the crush sleeve eliminator kit and then it will not loosen up again.

I waqs wondering who was gonna suggest the pinnion nut first. Seems the cheapest place to start. And the crush sleeve illiminater is another greade aftermarket idea that ford should have designed in the first place. Instead of tightening the crush seal to a certain preload the shim pack style allows you to adjust the preload by adding or removing shims. Once a cruch sleeve has been cruched there is no way to back it off because its been crushed.
 

franklin2

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This is a common problem with these rearends, the splines wear on the id of the yoke and the pinion shaft, and the yoke will start working back and forth on the splines, which loosens the nut over time. I have heard Ford corrected this problem in the mid 90's with a longer pinion shaft and a longer yoke to go along with it, for more spline engagement. Of course this makes the snout on the rearend longer also, so the driveshaft has to be shorter for this rearend.
 

gonecrazyi

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I've got a 96 long pinion rear end in my 89. Went right in and replaced the short pinion without Amy problems. Got a rebuilt rear from the junkyard for 150 with new gears LSD and new brakes.
 
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