Pedal Box nightmares

[mrklean]

Alright, my pedal box bushing finally wore out and I pulled everything apart when my clutch would no longer engage. I replaced all bushings with ford OEM. The passenger side bushing hole was slightly ovaled out. I built it up with TIG and ground it back round. Turned out very well. Reassembled and there is no play when pushing pedal anywhere in the assembly. Looks as good as new. I can't for the life of me get the pedal adjusted correctly though.

If I attach the clutch pedal master rod to the pedal with the clutch cylinder tight to the firewall, my pedal will not fully disengage clutch nor allow me to start the truck. I tried assembling with the clutch master loose on the firewall (nuts about half backed off the studs) in order to gain some extra play to turn the lever forward on the knurling, and I get too much clutch. Clutch disengages with ease and truck starts, but engage point it slight above all the way up on the pedal and the clutch slips under load.

Before the bushings went to hell everything worked fine. Clutch never slipped and shifted like butter. Everyone always says post bushings, they've never shifted better, but mine is complete garbage.

Is there any trick that anyone else has done to get the alignment correct? I've readjusted this thing 10+ times and still not right.

 

[Runningaford]

Mine didn't 'adjust' much at all. I had to weld up the hole also, and it's lasting so so. When I do the bushings again, I'm going to open it up, and weld in a pipe for a smoother radius.

 

[riotwarrior]

What year truck?

May want to try a simple but really fricken hard fix.

Remove small clutch arm from clutch pedal cross shaft....the arm that actuates the clutch mc.

Now with it off...and free...reinstall it aligned so as the mc rod eye lines up....

Just saying....its about the only adjistment u got.


I did a tech 101 on it but sadly pics are likely gone thanks to photophucket.