Out comes the 7.3..... Quick question on engine stand?

[89dieselbko]

If not this weekend, then starting next wednesday the 7.3 is coming out of the bronco for a complete (ish) tear down. Going to reseal everything for sure, oil cooler for sure, still have to order injectors, and a pump (found a local ish shop that will take my pump, rebuild it, reinstall *free* time it *free* and garuntee it for 50k miles, no labor/parts out of pocket) so i might give that a try and its a bit cheaper then the moose (total for pull, rebuild, put back, timing, +warrenty, $420) i dont have to worry about timing, even more so with the timing rental program down as i last read that would be a nightmare, and of course, gives me a couple hundred extra to work on a turbo kit deal.

I want to do a compression test on it, hoping i can *borrow* one from a buddy that has a few idi's as hay haulers
I dont want to tear THAT MUCH down if i dont have too, rather not re-ring it and have to pull the crank out, but hey, who knows.

The 7.3 weighs, according to a few sources online, 920 dry, so when i pull it, figure 1000 (flywheel is coming off before i let tension off the cherry picker, that may or may not be in the weights i was reading) so im stuck in a conundrum... I have a 750lbs engine stand (i know to small), was looking to upgrade for safetys sake. Would a 1000lbs engine stand be good enough? Anyone had a 7.3 on a 1000lbs stand for an extended period of time? Im thinking with winter coming it might be down until march or so... 6 months (will be at least partially disassembled most of that time)... Any opinions on that stand? I was looking locally at some 1250lbs stands... but for that extra 250lbs the price jumps $100 or more (cutting into my budget)

Is it worth the extra money for the 1250, or would the 1000 be sufficient for my needs? i dont plan on tearing out crank/pistons so the stand wont be taking a beating, just sitting in a corner covered up (i hope).

Second question... what do you guys use to coat the inside of your engines when tore down to prevent flash rust and all that fun stuff... i used WD40 when i built my 331 stroker and it worked well... but is there something better perhaps?

As always thanks guys!

 

[towcat]

I strongly urge you to get a 2k/lb engine stand. especially one that has four caster wheels. anything less you will be taking a serious gamble with your safety even when you are not moving around the motor.

 

[GOOSE]

Go for the larger stand. I have gotten away with lesser stands but it is nerve wracking. The small one are hit and miss. Some seem ok, others....not so much. I had one stand that I added a 2x4 to support the front of the engine from the harmonic balancer to the 3rd leg underneath it. It's what I had at the time and also was for storage purposes. If I were to spend some coin, I would absolutely go for the heavier stand, that little voice in the back of your mind will thank you every time you look at it.

 

[yowen]

A guy here at work got a great deal on an engine stand for his 460. He found it locally on craigslist.

 

[freebird01]

i bought a 1500# stand from northern tool and it still bent the head of the stand

 

[BrandonMag]

My Cummins has been on an engine stand for about a year. I picked it up from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-foldable-engine-stand-67015.html

I would recommend it. HOWEVER, I didn't use the bolts that came with it, they are crap. I picked up some grade 8s at the local hardware store. Do the same and you'll be glad you did.

 

[icanfixall]

Its a 2000 lb stand or nothing. You just have no idea what the stress is on the turning head and those bolts. I have seen towcats stand. Its an oem from ford and its huge. Rolls on 4 BIG caster rollers and has a gear driven turning head on it.... Have you ever seen how the oem stands are designed to fit our blocks. They bolt up to the side of the blocks to the motor mount bolt holes in the block. Now thats a well balanced setup. Two more thing you need to know about. That pipe turning head must be greased so the friction is reduced as much as possible. Also the placement of the engine on the back plate is important. You want the balance of the engine to be such that it wont spin over if one head is removed. Plus it can be very hard to turn to engine up so the heads can be reinstalled if the block is too low on the stand. As the block starts to turn so you can work on the oil pan there is no way you will be able to stop it from moving if it starts going fast. Also that tiny little turning wand the makers of the stand really isn't enough to safely handle these heavy engines.

 

[OLDBULL8]

HF has a sale on these now, might be cheaper at a store. It'll hold your engine. I use a five foot long 3/4" rebar to turn the engine over on my HF stand, as ican says it's still a chore to turn the engine over.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ands/2000-lb-foldable-engine-stand-67015.html

Here's my homemade one. Used it to rebuild Allison transmissions weighing 1200 lbs. First pic is changed over for engines. The vertical pipe is 4" extra heavy.

 

[FordGuy100]

I agree, I would take the weight of an engine and double it, then find a stand that is rating or larger.

My 1500 pound stand had a hard time supporting a 12v cummins block, just the block and rotating assembly. Doesnt help its an inline and inherantly longer.

 

[riotwarrior]

2k stand or seriously risk damage to engine, or worse...body! Look at it this way....

If that engine say worse case fell over and damage crank, could you afford to start again? If it fell over and broke your foot/ankle, would you be ok to continue or work, or would you have to be off work or just lay around home and not get engine done...

I like this stand...but he put legs inward instead of outward....
http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/enginestand/BDES.html

Just saying...for a few extra dollars....that 2K stand is insurance...can support the engine/exhaust manifolds, turbo n all accessories...just saying is all


YOUR CHOICE...
Don't you know BIGGER IS BETTER....

 

[subway]

if you are looking at HF stuff i usaully half the rated capacity if i get anything from them. its usually more accurate in what their welds and cheap metal can hold up to.

 

[89dieselbko]

thanks guys, appreciate the input, I guess ill take a trip to HF and surplus city for some grade 8s.

Got me all paranoid now... going to have to take some loose lumber i have laying around and build a bit of a stand to sit under the engine while its on the stand.

 

[GenLightening]

I used one of the HF 2k# units and it had a 6.9 on it for about a year. I think when it settled, the nose of the crank lowered 6-8"! Just a bit of flex... I cheated and used my cherry picker to help me turn the block over.