Opening the Door

[gandalf]

I haven't been able to open the driver's door from the inside for a while. I have to open the window, stick my hand out, and open it from the outside. This is on my '92 CC Dually.

Today I pulled the door panel to try to fix this. I was thinking there was a long rod between the inside handle and the opening mechanism (or whatever you call it). Wrong. There is actually a flexible cable. That long rod must have been on an older model. I seem to remember that the fix with the long rod was to bend it, put a kink in it, effectively shortening it. Can't do that with the cable. I need that cable just a tad bit shorter. How do I go about this?


In the process of doing this I seem to have killed the central locking system. It worked when I started work, and did not work when I ended. The only hint I can see is that there is an "extra" wire in the bundle coming the lock and window control unit. I think it's black with a white stripe, or maybe white with a black stripe. I suddenly can't be sure. It has a normal male spade connector, what I would consider medium size. I've seen smaller and I've seen larger. All the other wires in the bundle have a different type of connector. I don't see anyplace on the window/lock control unit where it could connect. Looking at the spade itself I don't see any indication that it has ever been connected to a female connector, no scoring or scaring on the blade. Where do I start on this?

Until these problems are fixed, I'll continue opening the window to get out of the truck, and I'll lock all door one at a time.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Most of the time what I find is the latch and handle mechanisms dry and gummed up with dirt. So far my OBS and Brick doors all work like new. Because I have removed the handle assembly and the latch asssembly from the door and cleaned well with solvent bath and carb spray. Then blown dry and lubed with motorcycle chain lube ( modern clear not old black goop) or spray jel grease with Teflon. Both come out like penatrating oil but set up into a light grease that doesn’t harden over time. Avould white grease it cannot get into the areas needed and solidifies into hard white paste over time. I have also made a tool from nested pieces of fuel and vacuum hose that fits the snorkel tube on the gel grease can that injects it into the cable. Cont.......

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

The usual problem is that the increased friction is causing more force needed to trip the latch. Thus the door flexes at the inner latch handle mount ( one bolt!) and often even cracks there. Don’t try to weld it, there is a way to slip a fender washer into the clip but and stabilize it. For extreme cases OBS Solutions is now carrying a reinforcement plate. Occasionally the door handle mechanism has been dry so long it actually wore out but not often.They carry a lot of common parts and problem solvers for the OBS and back to the bull nose. Occasionally there is an issue with the cable. There is a company on eBay making a nice aluminum ferrule for the cable to take up slack and repair the cable. Or get a new one. I have not needed either since 2002. Pulling the latch out of the door is a real b$&@tch but once you do it is night and day. While you are there cleans lube the regulator and especially the tracks on the bottom of the door glass. It will take some scrubbing with carb spray to get the solidified white grease out....use silicone/Teflon Super Lube on the tracks for a better than new operation. Can you tell I used to have a fleet of these? Guys were out in the field and in and out 100’s of times a day. My 96 and 91 doors open better than new. The key is don’t let it get so bad damage/wear start. Spraying penatrating oil or WD 40 on there won’t fix it.

 

[Exhumis]

I had to replace the cable on mine, it had stretched to the point you could pull the handle all the way up and it still wouldn't open the door. Broke 3 handles till I figured that out.

 

[Oledirtypearl86]

Also check the pivot points on your release mechinism just did one on a truck put a new Handel and cable on it and the release mech was all worn out also the cable o replaced had been cut and a wiring ring connector was crimped on and a bolt and nut through the hole

 

[typ4]

If you don't get it fixed by the time you get here we can take care of that in short order.

 

[gandalf]

That's good of you, Russ. I may/should be able to figure this out before I travel. I hope. The central locking problem is at that door. The system works well from the passenger door.