Opened 10 1/4" diff..Hmmm

79jasper

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Then it must've been a previous scar. I'll ask the PO (boss man) if he had any work done to it before.
It's a 94 so it doesn't have the crush sleeve crap.
The u-joint has a little play, but the pinion itself had zero play.

What would the best way be to "flush" the old fluid?
 

riotwarrior

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Then it must've been a previous scar. I'll ask the PO (boss man) if he had any work done to it before.
It's a 94 so it doesn't have the crush sleeve crap.
The u-joint has a little play, but the pinion itself had zero play.

What would the best way be to "flush" the old fluid?

Yes yes it does have the crush sleeve, it has a longer spline area and longer splined yoke to fit so there is less walking on the splines but it still would have a crush sleeve.

Just sayin!

Also that U joint could cause a bad harmonic.

Flush...I can't say much, maybe some kind of thinner oil say clean #2 diesel....flush it out well, then wipe it up in the small voids best you can. Flushing is a personal choice thing and I'm skeptic to offer some advice on doing something like that.

FOR MYSELF I'll be PRESSURE WASHING it ALL OUT but I'll have no pinion or diff in as I'm replacing crush sleeve. I'll also have no axles in. Once washed out spray down with WD40. Then let air dry and assemble as needed.

Install crush sleeve eliminator get my settings correct say 10 INCH pounds of rotational resistance WITHOUT a SEAL. Then disassemble install NEW seal and then install some RTV on the pinion splines and yoke splines, then a NEW lock nut with RED Loctite.

That's my preferred method.

Al
 

79jasper

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I'll get some pics up later, but it's definitely not a crush sleeve pinion. It's just a seal.
Maybe it was swapped from a different year. :dunno
 

riotwarrior

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I'll get some pics up later, but it's definitely not a crush sleeve pinion. It's just a seal.
Maybe it was swapped from a different year. :dunno
You won't see the crush sleeve until you remove pinion from the housing!

If it's a 10.25 diff it has a crush sleeve! If it's a 10.50 diff it's a Crush sleeve, Lots of these diffs have em!

I'll post my pics when I get back on doing my rear diff. Damn Keremeos Elks Rodeo had me busy all weekend as a SAR volunteer supporting them!
 

LCAM-01XA

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Then disassemble install NEW seal and then install some RTV on the pinion splines and yoke splines, then a NEW lock nut with RED Loctite.
Way I did it was put RTV on yoke splines only, then as you push yoke on shaft the RTV don't get jammed into the bearing. After yoke is all the way in (hold pinion head in or it will try to slide out on you) smear some more RTV on shaft splines sticking out of the yoke. Apply loctite to nut ONLY, cause if you put some on the shaft it will be forced into the RTV as you tighten nut, and RTV and loctite don't mix well.

Btw did you know loctite can be used as a thread sealer against brake fluid?

I'll get some pics up later, but it's definitely not a crush sleeve pinion. It's just a seal.
Maybe it was swapped from a different year. :dunno
What Riotwarrior said, AFAIK all 10.25 Sterlings have the crush sleeve. If it has a solid spacer and some shims, then someone converted it to that setup. Which is good for you.
 

riotwarrior

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Way I did it was put RTV on yoke splines only, then as you push yoke on shaft the RTV don't get jammed into the bearing. After yoke is all the way in (hold pinion head in or it will try to slide out on you) smear some more RTV on shaft splines sticking out of the yoke. Apply loctite to nut ONLY, cause if you put some on the shaft it will be forced into the RTV as you tighten nut, and RTV and loctite don't mix well.
Good points, I'll have to take pictures when I do this, I'm not slathering the stuff on and explaining is not worth effort. Pics say it all and I completely agree with your technique!

Yes RTV and LOCTITE don't mix that I did know,

As for a thread sealer against brake fluid no, I didn't know that. I would likely consider the need for thread sealer in a brake system strange myself.

Thanks for the info LCAM
 

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