On vacation and overheating, advice welcome....and appreciated

[OLDBULL8]

With a slidein camper your going to have a lot more wind resistance, being in CA, not much level ground. Your 230 temp is prolly normal, especially with the AC on. The fan won't kick in until about 240*, as long as your not boiling over it should be OK. All that with a 13 lb rad cap. To clean the bi-metal spring, center/front of fan clutch, spray it with some WD40, let set and spray a couple times more. The fan will roar when it kicks in.

 

[Trying my best]

Thanks old bull. I just get a little nervous waiting for the fan to kick on when I see the temps rising. I have been reading conflicting reports as to when the fan kicks on, for my nerves, I might throw a new one on, but I dont know which one. My production sticker is long gone so I'm not sure if I have the early production date or not. I think that because I have the v belt set up I have the earlier date, does that make sense?

 

[89dieselbko]

When i first put my 7.3 in the bronco, my temps had me worried as all hell. I put a sunpro temp gauge in to have a better reading. Thing was always 200-210. Granted i am running a smaller 4core aluminum radiator. Did alot of searching on here to find that was pretty much normal operating temperature. On my way home from work, there is a 3 mile, 8% grade uphill and for me to stay at the speed limit it rolls between 215-230. When i took my buddys travel trailer home last week, i had to top that hill at 45 to keep under 230

I DID replace my Tstat. Also replaced my fan clutch. nothing changed. My radiator was evenly hot as well. But the temps are within *normal* range, as are yours. I think what got me, and maybe what is getting you, is having a more accurate gauge, instead of just C to H. Seeing numbers places worry and doubt in your head. I am by no means saying your fan clutch isnt slipping, but since your temps arent bad, i would say its good. Just my .02. My fan clutch was cheap, under $40... maybe replace it just for peace of mind?

 

[Trying my best]

Thanks, I have been to known as a worry wort.

 

[RLDSL]

Heck, when I put my electric fans in, I set the fan switch to not even turn the fans on until 220-230 The thing preferes to run a bit on the warm side, all diesels do just so long as you can keep it under control ( and besides, I'm running evans coolant with a 375 deg non pressurized boiling point, so Im not too concerned

 

[Trying my best]

Ok, I ran it hard up a hill yesterday and I couldnt get it passed 215, I'm just gonna run it and watch the temps and see what happens. I'll let you guys know if I made it home or not. It should be a couple weeks.

Thanks for the info all....I didnt realize that these engines can run that hot.

 

[gandalf]

... is having a more accurate gauge, instead of just C to H. Seeing numbers places worry and doubt in your head. ...

This is a problem we all have. It's called 'automotive hypochondria'.;p

 

[icanfixall]

^Well.. I feel I can add something to the fan clutch. About the spring. If there is any oil or dirt around it that means the seal is starting to leak out. Your going to need a replacement fan clutch. Most members here will only run the Ford motorcraft clutch or the modified MS Tech. I run the MS Tech clutch because the spring has been removed, cut and reinstalled. The modification to the spring will make the clutch lock up at 210 to 215 degrees where the stock factory clutch might lock up at 240 degrees. I my rig its amazeeing to be pulling a long steep grade and see the temps climb to 210 and then drop down as I continue clambing the grade. You will hear the roar of air rushing thru the fan when it kicks in thats for sure. It sometimes sounds like the trans is slipping but watch the rpm. They stay steady and true. Also most here will use only distilled water because it wont drop out the minerals on the radiator tubes. I didn't use distilled and ruined a good radiator. Had to buy a new one in Oklahoms City one year but I got home safely. Now I run the famous Rodney Red that RLDSL (Robert) first tested and reported on. That radiator is an impressive piece of workmanship. These are some helps that you might look at and heres hopeing everything is going your way. Its tuff having possible problems on a family vacation. The family is looking up to you for a fun time. Many autoparts stores offer the fan wrenches for use. You need two of them. The nut size is 1 7/8 as I recall.

 

[idi_econoline]

Thanks to all for a very informative thread. Until I get my head gaskets dealt with, I'm not about to challenge this engine enough to raise my temps. My 14' travel trailer remains on its jack stands.

My fan clutch experience is limited to a seized one on my wimpy 351W F250, so reading all this prepares my for that day when my 7.3 will finally work a little.

 

[Trying my best]

Well, made to Sacramento from San Diego, through lake arrowhead and the dessert. I did put a new fan clutch on, and my temps did not go over 215. I think icanfixall was right...again. There was oil on the old spring. I'm glad I replaced it. We had a 14 mile climb up to 5000 thousand feet only going max 35 mph the fan kicked on and the temps were good. I'm still not back home so I don't want to jinx it, but so far so good. Thanks everyone

 

[Armo]

If the fan clutch didnt fix it another mention is belt slippage. The higher draw on the alternator could be causing the belt to slip. I had a car that would slip on the crank only with any load from the ac or electrical. A mixture of lightly sanding the pulley to deglaze and a new belt fixed it for me.

 

[Trying my best]

Good thought. I am charging the deep cycle in the camper, but I ran a switch to the cab that I turn off when I'm climbing.

 

[SparkandFire]

One important thing to note is that the temperature really isn't that big of a deal, so long as you don't have any uneven heating going on (such as what happens when you boil over, and steam pockets form inside the engine.)

I was running the stock Motorcraft fan clutch, less that 1 year old, looked to be in perfect shape (bought it N.O.S. off ebay in it's original box) I got my temp pretty high on a long tough pull, fan clutch never kicked in. Temp light never came on, but by the time I got down the other side of the hill, I had developed a nasty bottom-end knock.

Why ? You ask ? Oil viscosity... As oil heats up, it looses a great deal of viscosity. It becomes runny and thin and if it gets hot enough, it cokes off and breaks down. I believe that is what happened to my truck. I had just changed the oil before the trip to Valvoline premium blue (with the Cummins seal of approval on the bottle, should've known better...)

My oil pressure when I reached the top of the hill, at 3,000 RPM was down to less than 25 PSI !!!

Even though your cooling system might be able to keep up, and it's true that diesels do run more efficiently at higher temperatures, the biggest thing in my opinion is oil temperature.

My black truck has a locked clutch, and I am never going back...

 

[Trying my best]

So are you running a oil temp gauge?

 

[SparkandFire]

So are you running a oil temp gauge?

If the truck still ran I would, you bet! My other truck never sees anything heavier than the tackle box so it's not a problem there, but the clutch is still locked up...