Oil Cooler overhaul

[Diesel JD]

It's time for oil cooler o-rings. If anyone knows what the part # is for my truck(86 F-Series) I'd appreciate it. It seems like I have heard you could get the wrong ones if you weren't careful. Also I have read that you should have the oil cooler itself pressure checked and magnafluxed before I put her back together. Here is the plan as it stands now. Undo the diver's side engine mount, take the bundle off, take it aprt, have it pressure checked and magnafluxed at the machine shop. As far as jacking up the engine, I was going to use a floor jack on the oil pan. Is the engine mount easily accessible or is it difficult to get at? What type of tools do I need to get it loose and will it be hard? I know that I will need also to drain out all of the coolant and oil to do this job....can someone refresh my mind on where the block drains are? And for those who have switched to ELC, what do you have to do to cleanse the system of coolant and deposits to make it happen? Thanks!
J.D.

 

[argve]

J.D.

You should be able to wiggle the cooler out without having to take loose the motor mount or jacking the engine up - I did it on The E that way and I know that Geo has done it without taking his engine loose.

What you do is just leave the front header firmly bolted into place and take loose the rear header then just pry the entire bundle and rear header assembly out from the front header. Then take the front header off. Once out just clean everything up then reinstall the front header, slip the o-rings on the bundle and grease them then position the bundle and rear header towards the front header and pry it back on with a 2x4 and big pry bar - it will slip in... then just bolt the rear header back up. It's a messy job but you don't have to take loose the engine if you don't want to.

 

[stiesel]

when i did old grey i didn't jack up the motor. i did pull the lower radiator hose.
the only coolant plug i drained on the block was the one at the rear of the oil cooler itself. the whole job was a lot easier than i thought it was going to be.

 

[Diesel JD]

If I understand correctly, you can't pull the header closest to the block if you don't lift the engine...or can you? What is the logic for jacking the engine anyway...? Not enough clearance to work with..what?

 

[argve]

Reason why they suggest lifting the block is you can't fit the front between the exhaust manifold and the motor mount - this is if you want to yank it and reinstall the oil cooler as a one piece thing... if you just assemble it on the engine then you don't need to lift or jack anything.

 

[Diesel JD]

I see, how do you press that stuff together with the bundle on the engine? Is there room to use teh clamp/jig deal? What about taking off the exhaust manifold? A guy over on TDS suggested that. I hate that idea, but still I know they can be installed with the engine in the truck...even if it is a major PITA. Thanks,
J.D.

 

[argve]

To press it back together just get a short chunk of 2x4 and a good sized pry bar - grease the o-rings and the inside of the headers - slip the o-rings on the bundle and pry... She will slip together once you get the first o-ring on each side slid in it will go together like nothing. It's just getting past that first o-ring is the real pain.

 

[Diesel JD]

Travis, what did you use for a prybar? Crowbar, rebar 2X4??

 

[argve]

I have actual pry bars - the ones with the prudy handles on them - I used my biggest one - it's about 24 inches long and used a block of wood 2x4 to brace against. Just hooked my feet in the under carriage and poured the power to it - worked like a charm. Did this for both the removal and reinstall.

 

[jrisingmoon]

do special o-rings need to be used or can everyday plumber o-rings be used?

 

[argve]

If the o-ring is of the correct size and are both rated for oil and coolant (repectively) then yes.

 

[Diesel JD]

I would think the oil would be less of a problem than the antifreeze, that stuff is mean! Pretty corrosive, I hate it. Probably anything made out of viton would be pretty corrosion resistant, natural or butyl rubber gets eaten up pretty quick by all kinds of stuff, at the other end of the spectrum.