Oh...that smell...

[crash-harris]

For those that know what hot cast iron smells like, and also have a wastegated Banks Sidewinder...

Have you ever smelled that super hot cast iron smell while on long trips? This is now the second time Thumper has made the 400+ mile run over the mountains to the in-laws, and it's the second time I've smelled that smell (stronger getting closer to the steering wheel). Is that just the turbo pedestal getting hot?

It was finally warm enough this week to bump the timing up a little less than a dimes width (until I get time to put the meter on it). It starts much better cold and hot, but still lacks the get up and go that the N/A crew cab had, and EGT's are staying lower? I feel like the IP was never turned up a flat when the turbo was installed. There is still anti-tamper paint on the fuel cover.

I also smelled friction material, like burning brakes, but they were cool to the touch after coming down Fancy Gap, so I'm thinking it's the clutch and has something to do with that rattling at idle that we concluded was gear roll over while back...

Sustained speeds were pretty well between 65-75 mph the whole trip.

 

[Clb]

First off!
If you got the pump loose (the hard part that takes the most time b.t.w.!) Why not do it RIGHT?

So heat is a byproduct of retardation right?
At least mine ran hot when at 7.5-8, and cooler at 9-9.5...

 

[crash-harris]

First off!
If you got the pump loose (the hard part that takes the most time b.t.w.!) Why not do it RIGHT?

So heat is a byproduct of retardation right?
At least mine ran hot when at 7.5-8, and cooler at 9-9.5...

I can't get the my mag probe into the tube on my timing marks (tech-time), but after checking the correct thread regarding these prices, I'll be taking the spring clip off when I try next. I had the crew cab set at about 9.5*, but EGT's would climb pretty fast, so I don't know how the fueling had been altered before I got that truck. I only know that I turned it down a flat when I timed that one.

Unfortunately, I haven't had the ability to swap in/add mechanical gauges to this truck yet, so my only mechanical readout has been from the Banks pyrometer with the probe in the turbo manifold. Fingers crossed that I can get my mag probe in the timing tube. I've cleaned it out and even filed some material off the mag probe with no success yet, but I never get that smell during my normal 30-60 minute commutes at sustained 65-70 mph.

 

[Clb]

Lemme go get the drill bit size ya need to reem out the rust in the tube...
Brb

Take a good 5\16" bitt, blunt the point
( so it does not damage the balancer) and clean out the tube...
Note
Donot twist the tube nor hog it out, it needs an accurate index line on tdc and has to hold the probe tight.
My favorite, load it down and get it hot and sweaty pulling some grades.
Keep it below 1150
(Yes keyboard warriors 1200-1250 ) and try to burn of some coking and see what happens.

 

[crash-harris]

Lemme go get the drill bit size ya need to reem out the rust in the tube...
Brb

Take a good 5\16" bitt, blunt the point
( so it does not damage the balancer) and clean out the tube...
Note
Donot twist the tube nor hog it out, it needs an accurate index line on tdc and has to hold the probe tight.
My favorite, load it down and get it hot and sweaty pulling some grades.
Keep it below 1150
(Yes keyboard warriors 1200-1250 ) and try to burn of some coking and see what happens.

I've already reamed the tube with a 5/16" bit. Banks states that 1150-1200* at the exhaust port is 1050* at the turbo pedestal thermocouple location, but I was only ever able to touch on 850* once, and just barely. Even at higher elevation after rough bumping the timing, I could barely touch on 700* (again, thermocouple at stock Banks location in the turbo pedestal). I've got the tinytach mag probe.

When I have a thermocouple in the ecosystem manifold between the last 2 cylinders, I use the 1200* rule as an absolute max temp that I've only ever touched on twice for just a second. I prefer to stay under that.