no start!!

Diesel_brad

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It all started 2 days ago. Went to start truck and she turned over real slow. And wouldnt start. So i put the charger on it for 2 hours on 2 amp and she fired right up. Had the proper volts and had no draw. Was only charging at 12.5 at idle but i figured it would charge more off idle.

Today. I take her to work, work till noon , go to moms, then hit advanced on the way home. went to leave. Truck cranked REAL slow again. Had to get jumped. Then she fired right up. Went home, swapped the batteries out of a running parts tuck i had. She fired right up w the new used batteries. Went to advanced to get the old 2 batteries load tested. They checked out fine, just needed some charge. Went to leaved advanced . Cranking REAL slow again, needed jump to get her started.

Came home, pulled the starter. Put in a 88 7.3 starter i had on the shelf. Little smaller and lil different but bolted in. Now it cranks even slower!!:mad: I'm at a loss guy. Help me out could the used starter i put in be as bad as my old one? O... the old started dropped battery voltage down to 3.5 v while cranking. I didnt check the new used one. :dunno:dunno:dunno
 

zpd307

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check your voltage at the alt and battery. see what the drop is, this should give you a good indication on how your grounds and cable connections are. although 12.5 v at idle isnt the worst, mine is at 14.11 at idle. jsut to compare. i also feel better after switching to the the 3g, knowing that at idle, it is putting out more power than the 1g is at max rpm.......
 

Diesel_brad

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well after trying to start her thiss AM , no go had to put the charger on it for 10 min on 10 amp. Then she spun over real quick w the new used High Torque starter. Then did a volt reading on the alt. Only getting 12.45 at idle and 2500 RPM. Looks like the alt is bad. Any sugestions where to get one. Lookin for cheap do to the fact i am removing this complete IDI in place of a PSD by the fall
 

joe_diesel

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??? I'm thinking have the batteries tested someplace else. If she starts each time after a jump and runs normal after start can't think of another issue.
 

jw2644

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Maybe check yhe cables again. I had the same problem and it turned out to be tha cables. They corroded from the inside out.
 

Agnem

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Before you condem the alternator, full field it and check the voltage again. To do this, with the truck shut off, pull the connector off the voltage regulator on the fender. Take a piece of 14ga wire, and crimp male blades on the ends. Stick the blades in the 1st and 3rd postion on the connector (F and I if I recal). Start the truck. This will apply full battery voltage to the alternator field, and your alternator should crank out up to 17 or 18 volts in this configuration.
 

Diesel_brad

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Before you condem the alternator, full field it and check the voltage again. To do this, with the truck shut off, pull the connector off the voltage regulator on the fender. Take a piece of 14ga wire, and crimp male blades on the ends. Stick the blades in the 1st and 3rd postion on the connector (F and I if I recal). Start the truck. This will apply full battery voltage to the alternator field, and your alternator should crank out up to 17 or 18 volts in this configuration.


Mel, I did this . But my reg is labled I A S F . I is blank. I jumped A and F got 12.3 volts while running. Not running i am getting 12.22. I'm gonna try an alt. O and it started after sitting all day today which is really making me think in is the alt. not the cables
 

Diesel_brad

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well i went to advancedcookoo I know i know junk. The guy swaped the 2 v pulley on for me but he couldnt clock it. For some reason the windings wouldnt move. No biggie. I put it on and wouldnt you know. 14.65 volts at an idle. Problem solved. Just hope it lasts till i pull the engine:rotflmao
 
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