Newbie with a trans prob

[stever8761]

Hello everyone! And thanks for all your help already - I've been learning alot from previous forums, but didn't see this exact problem.

The "overdrive off" light flashes after driving for a few hundred feet. It use to just happen when I would back my trailer into the side yard(small hill to overcome) now it happens all the time.

The other prob was the bouncing in and out of OD, this was happening before the OD light problem started. The weird part is it seem to only happen driving into work 6:00 am and when driving home after 6:00 pm (in the dark both ways). Didn't happen in the middle of the day! First thought it was tempature related, but that theory doesn't seem to be holding up!

There is a shudder in the truck at take offs (normal and hard). But figured that was just the nature of the beast!

I just changed the rpm sensor (suggested in a forum) and changed the fluid (added Mercon V)(including the TC) and the filter. On the 3 mile test drive; the shudder is still there, the OD light started flashing, but did not get the in and out of OD bounce - it was always intermittent so I expect to see it tomorrow morning on my way in!

Any help would be great! By the way has the game started?

SteveR

 

[pafixitman]

Steve,
Since you changed the fluid and replaced the tach sensor i will rule those out. Leaves you about 4 other things to check.

There is a speed sensor located on top of the pumpkin that may be failing. Does your speedo bounce at all?

There is the FIPL adjustment. Right behind the oil fill on the side of the IP, there is a gadget w/ a 3 wire connector plugged into it. Slide a paper clip down the center wire. Key on, engine off it should read right around 1.1 volts. Now open the throttle and see if it reads 3.9 volts. If not, use a torx wrench and adjust it. If it is worn, or if the operation from closed to WOT is not smooth, replace it.

There are also 2 connectors on the tranny it self, one on driver side and one on pass side under a heat shield. Make sure the connectors are clean. connections are good and no wires are frayed.


All that said, since your problem is intermitten and mainly in reverse, I would say it is internal. These trannies do not pump fluid in reverse!

If I was at work, I would be able to send you some documents. Let me know if you need details for the tests.

BTW_The flashing OD light indicates the tranny went into limp mode and will run max line pressure - hence the hard shifts.

 

[stever8761]

Thanks Joe,

No, the speedo doesn't bounce.

I was just reading the tech article on the FIPL. Their also appears to be a fuel leak on top of the engine, and with the miles I was thinking of replacing the injector pump and injectors - I'll look at changing the FIPL at the same time!

On the drivers' side is the connecter over the gear selector cable? I got a good look at that, didn't unplug it - but it looked in good shape.

How can I stop the flashing OD light?

Did you see my other post about the engine codes? I want find out if I have the 166hp or the 185hp engine.

Steve

 

[OkieGringo]

Reply - A

The trans has gone into 'limp mode', usually because one of the 4 sensors that send info to the trans computer is bad or needs adjusting. Disconnect BOTH batt + cables for 1 minute. This will reset the computer. But most likely it will go back into 'limp mode' soon until you find the sensor that is malfunctioning. Does your tach on the instrument cluster jumping around while driving? Yes? Then replace it, about $50.00 ONLY available at the Ford 'Stealership'. Does the speedometer needle jump around, even the tinyest bit? Yes? Replace it, available at autoparts store for around $35.00, yours is the mechanical one and therefore ~ $10.00 cheaper than the newer electronic ones. If you have the 'tps'/FIPL set correct and it is ok, good, but they are available at autoparts store for < $20.00. The last one (MLPS-Manual Lever Position Sensor)is on the side of the trans where the shift lever enters the trans. It is available on the internet at Makco Distributing for $50.70 with shipping or at the 'Stealership' for $110.00 . But, you'll also need a special gauge to install it correctly available on the internet at SPX Corp. for about $45.00 + shipping. There is also a relay on the drivers side fender, available at autoparts store for ~$17.00 :shrug:. You asked for it. OkieGringo

 

[OkieGringo]

Reply -B

Line pressure is inversely proportional to the solenoid current. The lower the current is at a given throttle position the higher the line pressure will be. More throttle (higher FIPL/TPS voltage) results in lower line pressure. This is why when the trans computer goes into "Limp Home Mode" the gear changes are SLAMS. It shuts off all current to the solenoid resulting in HIGH pressure shifts.

Remember your High School Algebra? Visualize the x,y Cartesian Coordinate Graph. The x-plane is the FIPL voltage increasing from 0(Theoretically, 0.98volt , or 0.12 volts below whatever the FIPL voltage at idle is) towards the right to what the FIPL voltage is at WOT(3.8-4.5volts).

The Y-plane is your speed in MPH, a graph increasing from 0 mph up.

There is a set of variables (arc-ed lines) for both the upshift points/lines and downshift points/lines. The downshift line should be at least 15% lower than the upshift line. When the (x,y) position crosses the upshift line it shifts up, when the (x,y) position crosses the downshift line, it shifts down. When the (x,y) stays between the lines it HOLDS the gear it is in until the (x,y) crosses one of the lines. Go ahead and draw the graph to make it easier to understand.

The OEM computer has a pre-set set of (x,y)s that you cannot change. So, now you all understand (yeah, right) why it is SOOOOOOO IMPORTANT to have the FIPL set right and that it is not tooooo old.

So, if the E4OD isn’t shifting right and the FIPL is set correctly, and the other 3 sensors are new or “newish” and the ECM Relay is good and all the electrical connections are clean, you’ll need to replace the valve body or computer. I tried changing the OEM computer with another but it made no difference in sluggish 1-2 shift. My new Baumann PROGRAMMABLE Computer made an IMMEDIATE FIX, even with the Basic Startup Program. As of this writing, I’m still “Fine Tuning” the shift points. I LIKE IT!!!! And the E4P.O.S. LIKES IT!!! Can You Hear Me, Now?

P.S. No, I don’t have Stock in the Baumann company.



The ONLY adjustment that you can play with is the FIPL. If you have it set at the right voltage. It sounds like the valve body isn't getting the right amt of current which controls the shifting inside the trans. Voltage from the FIPL and the RPM sent by Tach Sensor, is sent thru the ECM Relay to the computer. Computer also receives info from the vehicle speed sensor(VSS).

The "Overdrive" is just another gear. You can turn it off when towing/hauling something heavy up a hill/mtn, but it's just another gear. The slipping is probalbly the torque converter unlocking/locking due to lack of sufficient FIPL voltage to computer. If the trans fluid temps are lower than 100 degrees it won't lockup, because low temps wear the clutch material faster and/or it'll "chunk off". This is a pre-set valve that CANNOT be changed. Also it's a reason that the trans cooler line goes thru the bottom of the radiator...to help warm up the fluid on cold mornings. Also cools it when fluid temps are too high. OkieGringo

 

[rancherman84]

go to the tech articale section and look for pulling the codes for the E4OD

 

[stever8761]

Weellll don't hold anything back OKie!!

Bring it on though!!!! I've decided I'd rather rebuild something the way I want it rather than paying $500+ a month for a new one!!

I've already redone the steering, and the brakes, want to get this trans working right then upgrade the engine a little. A new engine w/turbo will be down the road. Next thing is a dump problem - beds goes up, but won't come down !

Thanks for the info, I'd just assume replace the sensors so I know that it's all good!!

I saw in one of the of the other threads about the computer - definitely want to get that and an Aft mark. torque conv. and upgrade the valve body. Have a rear seal leak I have to address also!

Ya'll have posted alot of helpful info already - It is appreciated!!!

 

[stever8761]

go to the tech articale section and look for pulling the codes for the E4OD

I didn't see anything(Probably there-I didn't see it though) about where the plug is for the 92's.

I bought one of the analyzers for the Tbird - I think I need an adapter plug to hook into the beast!

 

[stever8761]

Well so far so good! On the way in this morning - I did not get the in and out bounce. But, that's not the weird part.

Usual routine, go start the engine, let the dog finish and put him back inside, as I pulled out of the yard, the OD light started blinking (expected) drove the mile to the Burger King, left the truck running, came back out started down the road and the OD light went and stayed out!!! but .

We'll see how this holds up! Thanks for your help , from my post and previous.

Mom would be so proud to know I'm running with a good crowd!!!
She always liked motor heads from the time I hogged up her garage for over a week building(making run actually) my first car. A 66 Mustang coupe that we dropped a 351W into! Had to weld up the spider gears to keep the one wheel from burning up!!

Thanks Again!

 

[deanj]

Dis connect both batteries (-). That should reset the codes (once the trans goes into limp mode you need to reset). Drive and see if the o/d lite flashes, when it does read the codes. Post what you get.

 

[stever8761]

Where do I plug into

 

[OkieGringo]

On my truck the plug is on the drivers side fender well. OG

 

[stever8761]

Thanks OG!