Newbie with a little troubleshooting help needed

[jrou111]

Hey guys, I need some technical advice. I bought an 1988 F-350 flatbed last summer. It's been hard to start. I've put a new electric fuel pump on, and recently installed a new injection pump. I've primed it, and have fuel at the top of the injectors, but it will not fire. Not even on starting fluid.

The weird thing is, that when I'm running the starter, there is fuel vapor coming out the intake, and no vacuum. There is also no smoke or diesel vapor coming out the tailpipe. It seems as if it's turning the wrong direction, but looking at the crank pulley, it's turning clockwise.

The only thing that I've changed is the IP. When I was taking the old one off, I loosened the 4 bolts holding the top cover on the timing/oil case. Once I realized that I bolted them back in. I'd think that even if it did move the IP gear, it'd only be 1-2 teeth off and would still start.

Any ideas? I've plenty of experience with gassers, but this is my first diesel.

 

[apextrans]

A while back I actually removed the timing gear before I knew it was indexed & everybody here told me that if I was a tooth or two off putting it back in, that could keep it from starting. If you only loosened the bolts on the cover though, I don't think the gear could have moved. It's pretty large & has some weight to it. If you really think you moved it, I have an article that will get it reset without having to remove the front cover to line up the timing marks.

How do the return lines look on the injectors?

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

either out of time or a bad IP.

 

[jrou111]

I have an article that will get it reset without having to remove the front cover to line up the timing marks.

Could you p.m. me the link?

How do the return lines look on the injectors?

They look fine. Is there something I should look for in regard to them?

 

[suv7734]

Here's the article:

http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Timing%20article.htm

Check the return lines for cracking or damage. Check the lines and caps for evidence of leakage. They can let air in and not leak fuel.

 

[apextrans]

Thats the article I was talking about. It works, believe me. I followed it to the letter & all was well. Once you draw your line across from tooth to tooth & set it down on the lower gear, don't freak out if the line you drew isn't perfectly straight to the cover. Look at the pic in the article, not exactly straight there either. Just get it as close as you can. Where did you get the IP?

 

[Diesel JD]

If its making fuel its probably badly out of time, probably jumped a tooth or two on the timing gear. Mine did that when I had the heads off just from loosening the gear cover...a lot. It would make fuel but no start. Get the gear right, get the IP timing as close as you can and all should be well, unless you have some massive air leak we don't know about. Good luck!

 

[Michael Fowler]

If you have fuel at the injectors, odds are the pump is good. Just get the timing right.

 

[jrou111]

Thats the article I was talking about. It works, believe me. I followed it to the letter & all was well. Once you draw your line across from tooth to tooth & set it down on the lower gear, don't freak out if the line you drew isn't perfectly straight to the cover. Look at the pic in the article, not exactly straight there either. Just get it as close as you can. Where did you get the IP?

http://www.test-calibration.com/

Thanks for the help, I think I removed the cover far enough to make it off time.

My father-in-law is gonna help me get it straightend out. He's been working on 7.3 idi's almost as long as I've been alive.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[apextrans]

Haven't heard of 'em but that doesn't mean anything. I've been out of the basement for a little while now. Good luck with it. Pretty straight forward fix. One thing I did think of that may be helpful: When you are setting the IP gear back down on the lower gear, try to center it evenly between the front & back of the cover. I say this because the teeth on both gears are diagonal cut. Too far to the front or back will make your drawn line look off to the left or right depending on which one you are closer to (front or back). Also, centering the gear will put you closer to where it actually sits when bolted to the IP shaft. That way when you bolt it up, it won't be pulling back against the teeth as you tighten it up or be knocked forward as you slide the IP into place on re-assembly. If it were to tilt in either direction it could jump a tooth.

 

[jrou111]

I followed the guide and it's still having problems, so I took it to my father-in-law.

 

[apextrans]

Sorry to hear that. Hopefully it's something easy to fix.