Newbie 6.9 removed IP Need help Pics

[johneich]

I learned a bit late that this was the best Diesel site, anyone know if there is a gasket or just silcone sealer for the bottom of the front assembly? for when I put it back on?

 

[jonathan]

rtv is what you need to use

 

[OLDBULL8]

There is no gasket per se. But there is a rubber like ring in a groove on the cover. A light coating of RTV is best to use when re-installing. Take the lines off of the IP and the IP off the cover before installing the cover. Mark the lines as to which injector they go to before removing. Pic below. Re-install the lines in this order, 7-2-3-1-8-4-6-5, be very carefull not to get any dirt in the injector inlet port when connecting the lines, and be sure and put the damper clamps back on.

Hopefully the gear will be in time according to your marks, if you haven't moved the crank.

You can't get the IP out of time after the cover is installed as it will only go on with the dowel in the slot.

Take the Hi idle solenoid off, makes it easier to put the nuts back on. You will need a 9/16" box wrench in the shape of a C and thinned down. Something like in the pic below. Sears does sell a wrench similar to that.

 

[gandalf]

This is an old post, from TDS I believe, about the procedure you need to follow. It was written up because you're not the first to do this.
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I just remembered that on friday when I went over to visit Paul at DAS he mentioned to me a way to get the pump gear aligned once the cover has been removed that sounds a lot easier than screwing around with a flashlight and mirror on a stick and stuff.

What you do is lift off the injection pump cover and then the gear. Find the "y" mark at the bottom which points to the tooth that is supposed to align with a dot on the cam gear below(the one you can't see when it's assembled. From that tooth, you count up the gear towards the top on both sides 19 teeth. Put a mark on the 19th tooth on each side, then scribe a line between the two. This line will now run across the front of the gear, and be just above the deck when the gear is lowered into position. You can easily tell if it is out one tooth or not as the line will not be level with the top of the block. You can then lower the cover onto the gear all the while watching the mark to see it doesn't move. Too easy!!

Should look kinda like this.....pic here..

Hope that helps someone, I haven't tried it myself yet, but you can bet I will soon.

 

[OLDBULL8]

After it's all back together, line up the mark on the IP to the mark on the gear cover, that is static timing. If you have to move the IP for more timing correction ( move IP mark to passengers side to increase timing degrees) WITHOUT engine running, loosen 2 bottom nuts slightly, keep top nut tight with engine running, now if you have to move IP, engine OFF only 1 nut to loosen to move the IP. Timing by ear is difficult even by the best mechanic.

 

[towcat]

I learned a bit late that this was the best Diesel site, anyone know if there is a gasket or just silcone sealer for the bottom of the front assembly? for when I put it back on?

silicone at the base of the gear cover is the approved sealant

 

[icanfixall]

What you need to do now is remove the injection pump from the gear. Then make sure the cam gear "Y" timing mark is up. Usually the crank timing mark will set this up if you have the crank positioned properly. The crank timing tab has a line pressed into it near the short hole. Thats top dead center on number 1 cylinder. Now look doen in the front cover for the "Y" mark... If its not visible then you are 180 degrees out of proper time in the gears. So rotate the engine one time. Now the marks will show up... Your looking for the Y and not the dot timing marks. When thats done just set the injection pump gear down in the front cover. You will need to actually see the two timing marks line up as in the picture I posted some time back. The gear may roll to one side or the other.. Thats not a problem because it will still be lined up. Now apply rtv to the aluminum gear cover and place it over the gear. Bolt it down. Now install the injection pump. Bleeding out the trapped air is the next hurdle you have. If you have placed some kind of mark on the injection pump to gear housing line you can get the timing really close to what you had before you removed the pump from the aluminum housing. I like to make a center punch mark right in the joint. Then its easy to align the two half circles to make one circle timing mark in the aluminum housing.... Please ask any questions as you go. Plenty of members are here waiting to help... Your taking off the injection pump and gear cover is a known issue with these engines and your not to feel dumb for doing it.... As for the Utube show... Thats an example of how not to do a simple repair... Funny how some EXPERTS sway the public... You will find others doing this repair the same way you have... It just looks like the easy and fastest way of taking something apart... After its apart only then do you see what has happened...