New turbo, no power

chillman88

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So, how do I set ATDC? I know where the zero mark is on the timing tab, but all I can do is dial in degrees of advance on my timing light, no negative adjustment. How do I read this correctly?

I can't help you there, as I don't know. As I said before I've never messed with a luminosity setup.
 

Laine D

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How did you seal it? I know I have a small leak around the slip pipe fitting on the Y adapter. I can hear and feel it leaking around that connection but I'm not seeing any soot around it.

No boost leaks. I pulled the hose off the hot side of the turbo and removed the boost gauge line, then capped off the hose and pressurized the entire system through the boost gauge port using a rubber tipped blow gun and compressed air. I put as much pressure in as I could hold back with the tip of the gun, then let off the trigger of the blow gun and continued to hold it tight against the fitting. I'm able to hold pressure in the system for a good 20-30 seconds before it slowly bleeds off. If I had a boost leak that massive I wouldn't think it would hold that long.

I replaced the original wastegate with an aftermarket adjustable one and put an 18 pound spring in it. I have verified the wastegate is fully closed and tried disconnecting and plugging the line, no change.
I sealed it by welding it when the engine was out. Obviously that’s like the hardest way to do it with the engine in. Sorry if that wasn’t much help :/
 

cozinsky

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I sealed it by welding it when the engine was out. Obviously that’s like the hardest way to do it with the engine in. Sorry if that wasn’t much help :/
What did you use? The copper rtv?
 

gnathv

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There’s a thread titled injection pump timing 21 Feb 2021. Apparently there are several members using this meter.
 

gandalf

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Will this timing tool work or would I need a different adapter for it? It says its for a 6.2 or 6.5 GM but they use the same size injector lines.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DTI-Tach-T...583668?hash=item3664b16e34:g:MEMAAOSwkLxe490D


That's the meter I have, bought, I think, from the same seller. It works for me. The critical part, and the expensive part if you must replace it, is the transducer. The IDIs have quarter inch injector lines. In the picture on the EBay site you can see the transducer marked 6.35. That's 6.35mm, which translates to 1/4 inch.
 

chillman88

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That's the meter I have, bought, I think, from the same seller. It works for me. The critical part, and the expensive part if you must replace it, is the transducer. The IDIs have quarter inch injector lines. In the picture on the EBay site you can see the transducer marked 6.35. That's 6.35mm, which translates to 1/4 inch.

I actually just bought one myself! That way I can stop borrowing everyone else's LOL
 

Wyreth

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So, how do I set ATDC? I know where the zero mark is on the timing tab, but all I can do is dial in degrees of advance on my timing light, no negative adjustment. How do I read this correctly?

It sucks, and is fiddly, and you really need a sewing or other flexible tape measure, but this is what I came up with after some vodka:


Assuming your balancer is 7.087" (got that number from rockauto) Then every 124ish thousandths of the circumference is 1* So measure 5/8" of an inch counter clockwise from the timing line on your balancer and make a tick with a white paintpen. Line that tick up when your timing light is set to 0* and you now have 5* ATDC.
 

Scotty4

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It sucks, and is fiddly, and you really need a sewing or other flexible tape measure, but this is what I came up with after some vodka:


Assuming your balancer is 7.087" (got that number from rockauto) Then every 124ish thousandths of the circumference is 1* So measure 5/8" of an inch counter clockwise from the timing line on your balancer and make a tick with a white paintpen. Line that tick up when your timing light is set to 0* and you now have 5* ATDC.
There was a thread here somewhere about timing stickers.
 

RetiringColt

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Just my $.2 did you check to see if the harmonic balancer isn't slipping on the rubber dampener? I fought a timing issue on a gasser one time and it turned out to be the dampener spinning on it's self. It was fairly new too. Little over a year old. Marked it up with a paint pin and finally found it moving. Very frustrating! But I learned something that day...
 

cozinsky

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I spent almost the entire day fighting with this thing again. I got the timing meter Thursday and got timing dialed in about 8 degrees. I also took the slip pipe apart and packed it full of copper RTV a couple days ago. No exhaust leaks now, but it would still top out at only 6 psi when I test drove it. I switched back to the original wastegate and no change. Finally out of frustration I wired the wastegate shut and saw the boost jump up a little over 15 before I let off. So, I went back and changed springs in the wastegate. I changed springs twice and finally hit 14 psi. I'm currently using the heaviest spring in the kit which is 2.0 bar (29 psi). I have the rod turned in 5 turns past where it will slip over end of the wastegate, which according to the chart that came with the actuator should set opening pressure at 18.5. I'm going to put my hand pump on tomorrow and see how much pressure it actually takes before it starts opening before I make any more changes.

I'm still only seeing about 1 psi while cruising. Is that normal? Moderate acceleration brings it up to 6-7 and wide open pulling a long hill it tops out at 14. EGTs are still running a little high during a hard pull, around 1100 and creeping toward 1200 before I let off.
 
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