New (to me) truck!

[nitroguy]

New (to me) truck! [edit: now with pics!]

Hey all!

Just wanted to introduce myself, as I'm sure I'll be hanging around here lots in the future. I just sold my '01 2wd Ranger for a '93 F250 7.3 IDIT Factory Turbo Diesel. Long bed, extended cab. Got a 193k miles on it, but the mechanic that I bought it from replaced just about everything I could think of (ball joints, head gaskets, all hoses, all belts ... ). We're moving from Seattle to Montana in a week, and my little truck just wouldn't cut it over there. So...Diesel here I come!

Any words of advice for me? Things to look out for? Things that commonly go wrong? (a Ford reman tranny was put in a year ago, fwiw. It's a 4 speed automatic - does that make it a e4od?)

Other than general diesel and big truck advice, here's a stupid question. I found out there's no tie down hooks in the bed. That's not gonna work - I've got motorcycles. What's the preferred method of adding tiedown hooks to the bed?

Thanks all! I'll post pics of my new Beauty once it's light out.

-nitroguy

 

[whiteboyslo]

This is what I use for tying down my bikes.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/anchortrax-tie-down-system/p2019712.jcwx?skuId=519931&filterid=c1004j1

Auto 4speed in a diesel would be E40D.

Mike

 

[89greendiesel]

welcome to the forum nitroguy!

 

[GOOSE]

Welcome to Oilburners. I would start by reading the stickies at the top of the page, there is a ton of info there that is most likely what you're looking for. As far as tie down points go, I would build a headache rack and wrap the bed rails with angle iron. Then you can drill/weld/bolt something substantial where ever you want and the forces get distributed onto sizable metal. I do not like relying solely on sheet metal to hold precious cargo in the bed. Home Depot sells a 4 pack of light duty D-ring style tie down points for $5. They are very nice to have but a bit under rated for securing a motorcycle.

 

[idi_econoline]

Yepyep, welcome, nitroguy. If you're into your new truck at all, this is the place to be.

Pics of rigs are certainly welcome around here, BTW....

Hopefully change your oil before your move, if possible. Also should confirm if your coolant has the proper chemistry. As Goose said, much to be read in the stickies and tech articles here.

With winter coming fast, consider checking your glowplugs and circuitry. Even one failing plug, and you'll be working your starter very ******* cold starts. Perhaps wire up your block heater, which hopefully works. And a thorough examination of your batteries, cables and such would be wise before such a trip.

 

[nitroguy]

Thanks for the warm welcome, fellas.

I'll be sure to check out the stickies tomorrow (and the next day, and the next day...).

Still haven't nailed down the tie down thing. D-Rings indeed leave me feeling nervous, and a full headache rack isn't in the budget (or skill set). Does anyone drill holes through the bottom of the bed with some 1/8" flat bar and a u-bolt?

And thanks for the things to check, econoline. I've got paperwork that shows new plugs, battery, alternator, starter (I think, I'll have to double check), as well as block heater (woo hoo! Gonna be needing that!) So I think I'm good to go for all those things.

I did notice the cruise control doesn't work. Is there a common fault on those to check for, or just trace wiring? (I'm crossing my finger for the former).

Thanks again guys! Can't wait to learn!

 

[opusd2]

Welcome to the world of oil stained hands and pants! There are no finer badges of a good life than that. IMHO...

I always used eye bolts 3/8" or better and the strongest ratchet straps I can afford for hauling my bike, and after hauling it thousands of miles like that I can honestly say from experience that it works without exception for me.

But good luck and have fun making your mods to the truck because those are what truly helps it reflect your individual personality.

 

[opusd2]

And I just thought of another thing, the cold. Now is a good time to prep the truck to deal with it. Block heaters, fuel heaters, battery warmers and a maintainer in the battery circuit (very handy, one mounted onboard my truck has kept a set of 8+ yo batteries fresh), and a change of filters and fluids (to synthetic will do wonders for starting and working in cold and hot temps). I like to make sure I change fluids because I want to know for sure there is quality stuff in there and not something of wrong type or viscosity.



And one item I am always OCD about is the size and quality of the battery cables. They make such a huge impact on all facets of starting and running of the vehicle as well as good insurance against easily cooking a starter with amps. I like to shop for tractor cables with quality top post connectors, but that's just a lesson I've learned the hard way by owning Ford "M"odified engines as well as an old military truck that has a 24volt system, replacing starters gets expensive as well as old really fast.

Sorry for being a pain on this, I just had to do some expensive repairs to the 24volt truck that the PO butchered into a time bomb on me, and a lot was due to being cheap with components and previous jury rigged repairs. So it's fresh on my mind. Above all, just enjoy the truck and have the kind of proud feelings we with the more "primitive" diesels enjoy!

 

[whiteboyslo]

Regarding the bikes, I should have been a bit more clear. I use those Mr. Gasket guys in the rear. They're very secure since you use a 1/4" thick plate (supplied) to cinch it against the bottom of the bed. It distributes the load pretty well, so you're not going to bend or distort the sheet metal of the bed. They're also adjustable, which is handy. Yes, it requires drilling, but it's only two small holes per side.

For the front, I use this:

http://www.usrack.com/cradle_motorcycle_carrier.php

To be honest, while it works pretty well, it's not my favorite. For starters, the distance between the handlebars and the tie down points it offers is so short that using a ratchet strap is almost impossible because no one makes one that goes that short, especially if you use a Canyon Dancer. So, what we end up doing is cinching the ratchet strap somewhere farther back on this bike and coming forward with it. In some ways, this is actually better because you're not compressing the front forks, but it's a little awkward, plus you have to worry about the straps rubbing on the bike if you're not careful. Still, it allowed us to easily load two sport bikes in the back of my truck with room to spare.

Oh, and these ratchet straps are the best thing ever: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Carry-Power-Retractable-Ratchet-2-Pack/15125857

No more dealing with all the excess strap material!

Mike

 

[nitroguy]

You asked, and I got a couple. I'll get some more detailed pics of the interior, engine compartment, and underside once I can. I'd love to get your feedback on what looks old or worn out, or broken. (Again, remember, I'm new at this game. )

Without further ado, I present to you, Hank (yes, we name all our vehicles).

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And here it is parked on the street. We still live in downtown Seattle, so it's a bit of a fish out of water, but I like to just stare at it from by living room window. Does that count as a sickness?

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[NO_SPRK]

beautiful! i love the 2-tone grandpa gold