New to IDI and Where to start with my issues ABS RABS OD light

[llsvegas]

First let me start by saying hello and thanks for every one on this forum. I have been researching my issues on my new to me 1992 E350 IDI/E4OD Ambulance w/ 123K miles for a week solid now and my wife is tired of me being cranky!

I will address each issue individually so that you can see what I have tried to do to repair it. Even though to me they all seem linked together.

Almost positive in Limp Mode now. And now at the point to either sell it and take a huge hit or pay to have it fixed if I can not get some progress made. I see there has been a ton of owners in the same boat but I figured I would post to see if someone might see something that I am missing.

I am in Nashville TN if there are any other members here that live here also that might lend a hand or if can recommend a shop that won't bend us over and take advantage of the situation!


#1 Rear Abs light on.

Researched that the ABS sensor is also the VSS sensor that also controls the E4OD shifting points. I pulled and cleaned off metal and drove again with no change so bought new one and still no change.

I located the RABS port did as instructed for ground out to chassis and verified with test light to hot that the ground was a good one and the ABS light never flashed, it remained solid. I did check for fuse and was good.

What does the round 1 pin port next to the EEC provide data for?

Disconnected all connectors and used electrical contact cleaner.

Rear brake lights work as normal with head lights on or off.

ABS light cycles with turn of key. Meaning turn key its on, continue to start it turns off then comes back.


#2 OD light blinking.

Up until today it acted as if was short and flickered un rhythmically now it blinks at a very nice solid beat.
Not really sure how to address this one.


#3 Occasional erratic speedo.

Figured if can take care of the ABS light being on that this will work it self out. If not will take pumpkin cover off and check the tone ring for damage.


#4 Hard shift points.

Do have a code for TOT sensor fault but again would like to get that ABS taken care of first to see how it shifts.

Tranny fluid good color as well as level.

#5 Smooshy breaks while running but firm when engine off.

Level is good. Float moves freely. Checked for vac leaks and found none. The master and booster appear to be newer to the vehicle.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Welcome to the OD. Please put you truck in your signature, thats so we don't have to remember or refer back to the 1st post.

#2 OD light blinking.

Up until today it acted as if was short and flickered un rhythmically now it blinks at a very nice solid beat.
Not really sure how to address this one

You have to have a Tach. Check the Tach sensor mounted on the IP gear tower by the oil fill. They can become dirty same as the VSS. Check connection where it plugs in. The wires on the shift lever can be shorting out, have to remove the shield on the steering wheel to see, two screws on underside.

#5 Smooshy breaks while running but firm when engine off.

Bleed the brakes, start at RR then LR then FR then FL then bleed the RABS unit. Keep plenty of brake fluid in the MC, DO NOT mix DOT3 with DOT4 or 5 Hand adjust the rear brake shoes up.

#4 Hard shift points.

In limp mode you will get that. Not good to drive it that way. Blinking OD lite means you are in Limp.

TOT code. You will get that until tranny is up to 70*F. TOT just keeps the convetor from locking until that temp is reached.

#3 Occasional erratic speedo.

Check your speedo cable, gears may be worn. Not sure wether there is a RPM sensor there.

 

[llsvegas]

Welcome to the OD. Please put you truck in your signature, thats so we don't have to remember or refer back to the 1st post.

Ok think I have it updated.

You have to have a Tach. Check the Tach sensor mounted on the IP gear tower by the oil fill. They can become dirty same as the VSS. Check connection where it plugs in. The wires on the shift lever can be shorting out, have to remove the shield on the steering wheel to see, two screws on underside.

I have no tach on the dash and I understand that the vehicle should still have the connection so will go hunt for that this Sunday afternoon.

Bleed the brakes, start at RR then LR then FR then FL then bleed the RABS unit. Keep plenty of brake fluid in the MC, DO NOT mix DOT3 with DOT4 or 5 Hand adjust the rear brake shoes up.

Will do and report back!

In limp mode you will get that. Not good to drive it that way. Blinking OD lite means you are in Limp.

TOT code. You will get that until tranny is up to 70*F. TOT just keeps the convetor from locking until that temp is reached.

Check your speedo cable, gears may be worn. Not sure wether there is a RPM sensor there.

Its a E4OD so no cable. The speedo is ran off the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) off the Tone ring in the pumpkin.

I appreciate your suggestions and will jump right on them tomorrow after noon. Have a good one.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

Welcome to the site! Hopefully towcat pokes his head in, he can tell you near anything about the transmission in your chassis

 

[trackspeeder]

Get the tranny codes pulled. When the OD OFF light flashes, you have stored codes. A transmission shop, or good garage can do that for you.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. Have you gotten the injection pump tps throttle position switch calibrated. On a warmed up engine the voltage on the center green wire should be between .96 to 1.2 volts at idle setting. Thats key on but engine off. It might need to be replaced too. Its easy but you need to pay attention to how it winds up on the throttle shaft. The tps is located on the drivers side of the injection pump. Has three wires going to it. The 1.2 volts will give a firmer but not a harsh shift and the lower that number is th the softer it shifts. That trans will have a cable driven speedo too. It was not till 92 when they went to an electronic speedo. The soft brakes are because the rear shoes wont self adjust. So we manually adjust them. Tell us how far down the parking brake locks up the rig. If its more than 1/2 way down then the rears are way out of adjustment and needs attention. Test this by applying some parking brake. Say about 1/4 travel. Now drive it and see where the brake peddle rides when you stop. I'm betting its up much higher when you stop. What the parking brake is doing is adding some tension of the shoes so they do not need so much fluid to expand and touch the drums.

 

[llsvegas]

Welcome to the forum. Have you gotten the injection pump tps throttle position switch calibrated. On a warmed up engine the voltage on the center green wire should be between .96 to 1.2 volts at idle setting. Thats key on but engine off. It might need to be replaced too. Its easy but you need to pay attention to how it winds up on the throttle shaft. The tps is located on the drivers side of the injection pump. Has three wires going to it. The 1.2 volts will give a firmer but not a harsh shift and the lower that number is th the softer it shifts. That trans will have a cable driven speedo too. It was not till 92 when they went to an electronic speedo. The soft brakes are because the rear shoes wont self adjust. So we manually adjust them. Tell us how far down the parking brake locks up the rig. If its more than 1/2 way down then the rears are way out of adjustment and needs attention. Test this by applying some parking brake. Say about 1/4 travel. Now drive it and see where the brake peddle rides when you stop. I'm betting its up much higher when you stop. What the parking brake is doing is adding some tension of the shoes so they do not need so much fluid to expand and touch the drums.

I do have a 1992. No cable speedo? I have not checked the Volts yet. Trying to knock these off one at a time. Parking brake is ***** and I am doing new shoes and a bleed in the morning. Thanks

 

[llsvegas]

Update with a little progress.

If I press the brake pedal BEFORE I start the van the Rear ABS light goes OUT until I let off the Brake pedal. We will see what happens after I replace the rear pads. Fix the parking brake and then bleed RR - LR - Rabs - RF - LF!
Also replaced the OD light but decided to take the column apart anyways and found 2 wires off the gear selector have worn thru. Did this cause anything to go wacky? Don't know but gonna replace it anyways!

 

[Michael Fowler]

Welcome to the forum. Relax, and just know that the advice offered here is the best you will find. These trucks are old enough that "normal" full time shops and mechanics are not up on their peculiarities. But the gang here is, and we all love these trucks, and most of us have nothing to sell...something you can't say about the shop down the street.
After you get the immediate issues solved, read everything in the tech section.
The most important advice is this--when it comes time to remove the injection pump, read how to do it here--in the tech section--don't just start and do what seems to be the easy way--by that time it is too late, and you will have caused yourself a great deal of extra trouble.