New tie rods for 2wd cc, which ones?

[LCAM-01XA]

I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter if you're over or under 4200 lbs, as long as all the linkages are matched to each other you will be good. The higher GAWR trucks just have thicker linkages is all, the holes in the spindles and the pitman arm certainly looked the same to me, so if you're replacing everything between them in one shot it really shouldn't matter which setup you use as long as all the TREs are the same size.

For that matter, as evidenced by my truck it appears it's possible to mix different sizes left and right, as long as each outer TRE is matched to its respective inner and the sleeve on the same side...

 

[Greg5OH]

indeed, the holes in the spindles and pitman arm should be the same, but the actual linkage will be thicker. my father went to measure the tie rods, said theyre 22mm according to him. here is my hopefully finalized list of components. take a look at the steering components please and thank you.

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[LCAM-01XA]

What does a parking brake cable cost at the store up in the great white north? Here they run around $20 so depending on shipping (I noticed it ships alone from a different warehouse than the other parts) it may be cheaper to get it local...

Stering linkages seem good now. The only thing that concerns me a bit is that the left inner, outer, and the sleeve are not listed whether they are the HD stuff or not... Can't you get them in Kelsey-Hayes or McQuay-Norris brands?

 

[Greg5OH]

doesnt list anything about it being HD on whole page parking brake cables here are about 40 a piece.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

By HD I meant the over 4200lbs ambulance package, sorry for the confusion. So nothing on the page says if the left linkage is under or over 4200? Maybe only the passenger side linkage has two sizes, and driver side only comes in one size? Looking at what parts stores list it certainly appears that way, 2 listings for right side but only one for the left side.

I'd say go ahead and place your order and fix up your truck - if non-HD linkages can withstand to my driving they will hold up to your pavement use as well.

 

[Greg5OH]

off topic, ut i think ur the only one online, any idea whAat size bearing i need for my factory air ac compressor?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I think there are 3 bearings actually, two for the rotor (likely the same size) and one for the pulley. No idea on sizes tho, never had to replace one. And I seem to recall someone mentioning that a special puller is needed for the clutch once the nut in the middle is removed, but idk for sure...

 

[bab029]

And I seem to recall someone mentioning that a special puller is needed for the clutch once the nut in the middle is removed, but idk for sure...

I didn't use one, just verrrrrry carefully pried it off with a couple of screwdrivers. Maybe if I lived in the land of rust and snow I would have.....

 

[Greg5OH]

Thank you all for helping me with the tie rods. They all fit great.

However, i still have some slack in the steering wheel. Im assuming the steering gear in the box is worn. I have about 20 degree of free play in the wheel. MTO wouldnt like that.

What is your recommended course of action?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Check the rag joint between the steering shaft and the box.

Also the shaft itself can have play in the slider joint between the lower half (attached to the box via rag joint) and upper part (attached to steering column near firewall via U-joint). Actually Icanfixall recently made a thread about said slider joint, has pics an all - look back about a week or so.

Finally the box itself can be loose. There is an adjustment on top of it for the gear mesh preload, to tighten a sloppy box you first loosen the lock nut (while holding the stud from turning), and then you turn the stud in (clockwise) in 1/4-turn increments till the slop is gone, then tighten the lock nut again while holding the stud from turning. Gotta be careful tho, if you go too far she'll try to bind on you, and easy check is to start making a turn at low speed then let go of the wheel and see if she returns to center on her own (this only works if truck is properly aligned in the first place and does not pull to one side).

 

[Greg5OH]

thanks! yes the plastic slider is good (i recently replaced it wheni was doing the oil cooler). I just had the truck aligned this morning, tracks straight and true now. I will definitly try adjusting the box as you suggested. would be super if thats the only thing! (well it leaks too, but...screw it, not dealing with that till its time to do the d60 swap)

 

[Greg5OH]

tried adjusting it...no go! that nut is STUCK on there. put some penetrating lube on it, ill give it another go. (wont go left or right)

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Aye, she can be a bear. Put the box end of a wrench on it and see if you can smack the other end with a rubber mallet or a dead-blow hammer. Do this without holding the screw in the middle, tho goal is to free up the stuck nut - just remember what position the screw's slot was in. Obviously you're trying to loosen the nut, so aim the hammer blows in the proper direction.