New parts truck/blown head gasket

[steelheadguy]

You must be registered for see images attach

Saw this on craigslist and made an awesome trade for some equipment Ive had in storage. Almost free to me! Its an 84 6.9 250 auto 2wd.

There is oil everywhere under the hood. Im guessing it blew the head gasket, filled the radiator and then blew out the overflow reservoir.
Ive read the engine needs to be removed to do a gasket. I wont be doing it now but maybe later. Anyone ever do it? How hard would it be for an amatuer mechanic?

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The camper shell needs shocks but besides that is in good condition. 5 new tires. Some new taz floor mats. 2 new batteries. Overall crap, but good crap

 

[mbolton1990]

Nice!
Get that truck back on the road.

 

[steelheadguy]

Ill try, but it will most likely involve me embarrising myself with a million questions and pictures on here. Like whats this? How do I do that? Where does this extra part go?
I guess first step would be an engine lift.

 

[79jasper]

It's easiest with engine out, but not required.
Search around. Should be threads with pics on HG replacement.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[junk]

Looks like there is a turbo system on it. Good score. Nice looking truck.

 

[steelheadguy]

Its a garrett turbo?

 

[gnathv]

Check the oil cooler and compression

 

[js5020]

My son and I just replaced head gaskets on his 94 7.3, we did not remove the engine. You do need to remove the rad support and I would say a cherry picker is a must have item to put the heads back on so you don't damage the new gaskets and a small supply of rubber bands are needed to hold a few bolts in place that have to go on in the head at reassembly. Engine tear down was about 3 hours and I wasn't in any hurry, rad support depends on how rusted the bolts are and you should have a helper.

I know many will disagree but I wouldn't pull the engine unless you need to do main seals or oil pan gaskets, just not necessary in my opinion.

 

[steelheadguy]

Check the oil cooler and compression

So is it possible there is no blown head gasket and maybe it is the oil cooler? The guy swore up and down he never drove it hot, but the mess under the hood made me think he did.

Ive never messed with the oil cooler. How can I check or test it?

As for compression, Ive never tested for it besides sticking my thumb over a spark plug hole on my kawasaki. Im assuming Id have to buy a tester?

Bear with me on these simple questions.

 

[icanfixall]

Doing the heads in frame has been done but not much working clerance at the firewall. Most will remove the black ac box on the passenger side for more room. Thos back head bolts and the valve pushrods will stay in the heads so that is where you need the rubber bands to hold them there as the head lifts off. DO NOT REMOVE THE INJECTION PUMP GEAR HOUSING... Just remove the pump from the housing. There are 3 nuts that hold the pump to the housing. Two are hard to reach and under the injection pump flange. The top nut is easy. These are 9/16 nuts. To get the 3 bolts under the oil fill spout just remove that from the housing and see the 3 bolts size 5/16. You need a socket that is 12 points and all I have ever found is the 1/4 inch drive size. Those drive bolts are torqued to 25 ft lbs and are hardened bolts. Ruin them and you can easily replace them from Nappa. they sell the exact bolts in their universal joint repair kits. That is very good information too. Or find any truck in a wrecking yard and get the bolt off the driveshaft. A cherry picker is best for lifting off those heavy heads and a must to install them. Clean the threads in the block too for the head bolts. The 6.9 block takes a 7/16x14 tap and the 7.3 takes a 1/2x13 tap. Cleaning off the heads and the block are so very important. Use a razor blade and keep doing it till EVERY bit of gasket is removed.. Or you will have a head gasket leak for sure.
If the engine comes out to replace other gaskets make sure to NEVER use an oil pan gasket. The factory used a quality TRTV and it works way better than any rubber or cork gasket made today. Many have tried using these aftermarket pan gaskets and ended up leaking so the engine came out a second time to do that repair without the gasket. Gasket makers just want the money and have no idea what we need. Fact is many gasket makers include several gaskets in many sets that do not fit our truck applications but do fit the van applications. Its far cheaper to include a few gaskets that are nor needed than it is to offer 2 different gasket sets for the same engine.

 

[riotwarrior]

No need to remove rad support pull heads in frame...that imho is a waste of time.

Did it in bricknose F350 4x without removing rad support....

Best is remove engine..then a nice thorough inspection and reseal.

Read THE STICKIES And get a thorough understanding of these trucks from that so you have a better idea whats what when asking ?'s

 

[homelessduck]

It is so much worth the effort to pull the entire engine if a head has to come off. They are not light, and it is a very awkward position to maneuver something that heavy.

 

[david85]

Interesting. Another one of those side turbo setups.

Heads can be done in frame, but you can do a better job with the engine pulled. Either way, it can be done.

It would be much easier to install ARP head studs if you pull the engine though. Not a bad idea if you want to keep the engine turbocharged.