Never ending t19 clutch issues

[NapaBavarian]

This really bites, I have repaired my firewall AND replaced my throwout bearing, but the clutch still dosn't work properly, it just barley disengages when the truck is cold, and as soon as the truck warms up it won't fully disengage and is extremly stiff, driving it and changing gears is becoming a real problem! What else could be the problem? Clutch master and slave? Something else? Help!

 

[Diesel Fly]

What exactly did you do to it? Did you replace it recently? Or did this just start happening out of nowhere?

 

[suv7734]

Sounds like you have all the clutch 'stuff' sorted out. What 'flavor' of oil is in the T19? The wrong lube can drastically effect shifting. Just a thought.
Bruce

 

[69oiler]

i have the same problem definitly the clutch dragging. i still haveto fix the firewall though. i agree the truck sucks to drive this way. i'll be running it tomorrow though as i have wheel bearing problems on the DD.

 

[NapaBavarian]

The truck has had the problem ever since I got it, every time I do something to it the problem gets better, I had it so the clutch didn't engage untill the pedal was half way up, that lasted a week, I have adjusted the linkage twice and fixed the problem as well, but it creeps back to not fully disengaging, and is very stiff, especially close to the floor, not so stiff for the first 75% of pedal travel

 

[gunnie]

one thing it could possibly be is a weak pressure plate or you have a finger on the pressure plate sticking out farther than the rest which will limit travel, making it much more difficult to shift

 

[The Warden]

I would look into the hydraulics myself. Have a friend push the pedal while you look at the slave cylinder rod, and see how much it moves. I think it needs to move about one inch before the clutch'll disengage, but I may have that wrong (someone please confirm this or correct me). Certainly, if you see little to no movement, it's a hydraulic problem...

 

[TLBREWER]

I would look into the hydraulics myself. Have a friend push the pedal while you look at the slave cylinder rod, and see how much it moves. I think it needs to move about one inch before the clutch'll disengage, but I may have that wrong (someone please confirm this or correct me). Certainly, if you see little to no movement, it's a hydraulic problem...

I don't know if the T-19 is different, but I went through this on my '92 before I got rid of it. On the ZF with external slave, I believe the minimum travel measured at the slave pushrod is 5/8". Anything less than that with no obvious mechanical problems and it's a hydraulic issue. The Hanes manual has the dimension listed, but I believe it was 5/8". Mine was at 3/8" and had to be jammed hard to get into gear. Do yourself a favor if it is a hydraulic problem, go to Ford and buy the complete system...master cyl, line, and slave already filled and bled as one unit. It's pricey at $200 plus, but it will save you hours of frustration and a plethora of cusswords. I learned the hard way.

Tom

 

[Agnem]

When you replaced the throw out bearing, did you inspect the transmission input shaft sleeve? If it was messed up then the throw out bearing will not ride on it properly, and can hang up.

 

[NapaBavarian]

I didn't see any obvious damage on the sleve, I'll have someone depress the clutch to see how well the slave moves.

 

[Joe Mc]

According to the 86 Ford service manual, the slave rod should extend a minimum of 0.53 of an inch(13.5mm) with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

 

[NapaBavarian]

Hokey... after a thourough **** beating and tear down inspection I discovered a bent master cylinder actuator rod so I straightened it out and she works smooth as new so the next question is why did she bend and how long untill it happens again (I hope not too soon)

 

[dieselmanic]

was the old throwout bearing seized when you replaced it? that would place a lot of stress on that rod. btw, the chances of that rod bending again are better than even now that old rod has been bent

 

[sle2115]

Something else that will bend it is a damaged pedal bracket and bushings! My whole clutch system was shot. Firewall cracked, pedal bracket (junk pot metal, about as high quality as the firewall) and bushings, what bushings!!! The hole on the clutch master cylinder end of the bracket was about the size of an egg and should be about 5/8" or so! At any rate, I replaced it all. The only thing I haven't replaced is the clutch, throwout and pressure plate and they are on the list of things to do. Mine has the dreaded shudder when hot and pulling out, forward or backwards, doesn't matter. I am sure that the clutch is shot, having such poor disengagement for so long had to take it's toll! I would guess likewise on the pedal parts and such and you need to take a good look up under the dash. If you push the clutch pedal and the rod that it pivots on moves, you have found yet another area of this garbage clutch system that needs fixed. Would be nice to have some metal in there rather than poorly recycled pop cans!

 

[NapaBavarian]

I did some head scratching as to how the bent rod hapened, and I don't question if the rod will bend again, the question is when. I was fully aware of this when I made the "jury rig repair", however without the truck I make no money, and purchacing a replacement clutch master wasn't happening that day, hopefully I can make an NPD order soon!

I did decide on how it happened, before I replaced the way-phawcked-up throw out bearing (the center hole was oval!) I tightened the linkage twice, and trying to make it work I loosened the master cylinder nuts, got the linkage on as tight as I could, then retightened the nuts to give me as much MC travel as possible, probably got it overtight, but it worked for a day or 2!

Now things seem to be working OK, but time will tell! A little stiff when warm, but silkey smooth when cold :Sly