Need some minor help.

[BrotherNick]

Well guys. Old blue has come together nicely. With the radiator in and all the filters done she is almost ready to go. But wait! She wont start. Not from the inside anyways. To start it I have to pop the hood and hit it from the solenoid. But even after that she wont start. Just turns. A likely culprit is that she has been sitting for 4+ years. Im gonna drop the tanks and go from there.

But the real fun is this which has me stumped. When I turn the key after the wait light go off it pops up three things. 1) Water in fuel, I know this is a big possibility but I just changed the filter/separator. 2) Engine Temp, why does this light come on when the engine cannot be turned from the key? Or the engine hasn't even been run? And 3) Fuel filter, Like I said, I changed the filter and the light is still there.

Second thing that has me in a bind is this. When I turn the head lights on the yellow running lights do not come on. I have all the wires connected as they should be and they still don't work. Could there be a fuse off? Or just a wire? The yellow lights for the turn signals work as they should but im still confused. So yeah. Ive heard conflicting diagnosis's and its come to the point where I kinda want to someone.

Thanks guys.
Nick

 

[riotwarrior]

Well guys. Old blue has come together nicely. With the radiator in and all the filters done she is almost ready to go. But wait! She wont start. Not from the inside anyways. To start it I have to pop the hood and hit it from the solenoid. But even after that she wont start. Just turns. A likely culprit is that she has been sitting for 4+ years. Im gonna drop the tanks and go from there.

But the real fun is this which has me stumped. When I turn the key after the wait light go off it pops up three things. 1) Water in fuel, I know this is a big possibility but I just changed the filter/separator. 2) Engine Temp, why does this light come on when the engine cannot be turned from the key? Or the engine hasn't even been run? And 3) Fuel filter, Like I said, I changed the filter and the light is still there.

Second thing that has me in a bind is this. When I turn the head lights on the yellow running lights do not come on. I have all the wires connected as they should be and they still don't work. Could there be a fuse off? Or just a wire? The yellow lights for the turn signals work as they should but im still confused. So yeah. Ive heard conflicting diagnosis's and its come to the point where I kinda want to someone.

Thanks guys.
Nick

Lets not worry bout lil electrical gremlins right now.

ONE thing at a time.

Have you started with a NEW fuel filter topped up with ATF etc? If so what did you fill it with?

New return lines/caps/orings or old old ones?

Is it a stock fuel lift pump or electric?

Are you getting fuel out the schrader valve on fuel filter head assembly?

Does the FSS on the IP click when turning key on? If not that can be a huge problem take a small jumper wire and go from BAT + to FSS on IP to make it open and allow fuel to flow, then you can try to start manually jumping the starter solenoid.

As for lights on, not 100% sure I don't ever pay any mind to red lights or yellow ones in my cab...

check engine light is cause the overtemp sensor is bad likely. As for the WIF and FF lights could be bad sensors or nasty electrical gremlins

Hows the wiring on the switch down on the column? Maybe the switch is needing adjustment? That could be an issue causing no start.

Just some things to look at.

 

[BrotherNick]

I have not tested the shrader valve. How would one go about that? hold the valve in and crank it? As for the pump, I honestly don't know. I know they are in tank pumps so I will have to look. as for this

Does the FSS on the IP click when turning key on? If not that can be a huge problem take a small jumper wire and go from BAT + to FSS on IP to make it open and allow fuel to flow, then you can try to start manually jumping the starter solenoid.

I am new to the lingo. what is the FSS and the IP?

 

[icanfixall]

No in tank pumps on our idi diesels. Only an after market electric or the mechanical lift pump found under the vacuum pump below the alternater. Yes, crank the engine and press in on the filter bleeder valve. As for the check engine lite it could very well be the over temp switch found in the drivers side front on the head. Just lift the wire from the switch and see if the dash gauge returns to normal reading. If it does not then you have a short in that wire somewhere. All that switch does is ground when the temp reaches 242 degrees and then the dash gauge peggs way over past the "L" in normal. We can run without that switch. With all the appearant electrical issues you may have a bad ignition switch. The FSS is the fuel shutoff solenoid found in the top of the injection pump. The wire closest to the radiater is the feeder to that. Pul it off and listen for a click sound. you usualy can also feel it open and close. If there is no sound or feel run a jumper wire from the battery hot side. then feel and listen for the click sound.

 

[BrotherNick]

Ok. when I turn the key I hear two clicks. also, is the fuel pump supposed to make a whirring noise?

 

[icanfixall]

Only an electric fuel pump will make a wirring noise. You could tell us where you hear this noise. If its under the hood it might be the fan motor. Or it could be an electric lift pump. To know if there is a electric lift pump and you don't know what to look for do this. Listen for the noise and press the fuel filter bleeder valve. See if fuel continues to flow out. If it just spirts out and then nothing you have a mechanical lift pump. Like said look down under the vacuum pump thats under the alternater. See the rubber line to a pump and a steel line from that pump to the filter. Thats the mechanical lift pump. Now hopefully someone has not installed an electric and have it forceing fuel thru the mechanical pump. That can rupture the diaphram in the pump and fill your oil with fuel.. Not a good thing at all.

 

[BrotherNick]

Ok guys heres an update. I got it cranking from inside. Turned out to be a loose wire. I dropped the front tank and drained it which was no easy chore as it was fryer oil that was 4 years old. I tried cranking it with the valve open and nothing so im guessing im not getting fuel to the filter as it would seem but the filter is full of fuel. So with that she still wont start even thought the filter is getting fuel to it which has me worried that it could be an injection pump if our engines have them( kinda new to this game). Thanks for the help so far guys

Regards.
Nick

 

[GOOSE]

Yes, we certainly do have an injection pump, its between the oil fill location and the air filter, 8 steel lines from the injectors converge to it. I would try cleaning out your fuel tank selector valve and all of the tubing between the tank and filter. It sounds like there is a host of issues here, getting the old fryer oil out would be my first move in which you started by cleaning the tank. I'd be sure the rest of the fuel delivery system is cleaned up as well.

You could try feeding the fuel filter with a portable tank and some hose, a portable boat tank system works well, just take the connection off the end of the line and hose clamp it to the lift pump feed.

 

[icanfixall]

It may be the truck was run on the fryer oil and thats gumed up the pump if it was allowed to get for a few years. Crank the engine then crack open the injection hard lines at the injecter tops. Thats a 5/8 inch nut. Just crack several open and see if any fuel leaks out. It will not spary out because there is very little volume to it but.. If the engine is running it will have probably 1900 lbs of pressure spraying out so be careful. That high pressure fuel can get injected into your hands and fingers. then if you don't die you sure might loose fingers or hands. surely you will get a horrible injection. I have never read where anyone has been hurt from this high pressure fuel but please don't be the first one. Also don't worry about not knowing what some great members here know about these trucks and systems. We all learned it the hard way too.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Just my .02. You should also check to make sure the mechanical lift pump on the pass side of the engine is working. If the filter is full, you can usually build a little air pressure in the filter if the pump is working. You can hear a little hiss of air when pressing the schrader valve after cranking the engine.

 

[BrotherNick]

Alright. Another update. Got the tank cleaned and drained again. You would not believe the crap that was stuck inside of it. The fryer oil had gelled a lot and left a ton of left overs.

You can hear a little hiss of air when pressing the schrader valve after cranking the engine.

I hear this which is a good sign. I will crack open the lines tomorrow and make sure the injection pump is working. And yes I will be careful.

And one more thing. The electrical gremlins have gotten to me. Its minor but it bugs me. The problem is that the running lights do not work. The turn signals work as do the head lights but I have no running lights. The break lights also don't work along side with the running lights. When I step on the breaks they work but not with the lights. Like I said, its minor but I really annoys me. Also, when I try to turn the running lights on the dash lights also do not work. And me being slightly OCD I annoys me that these do not work. I don't know if I just a loose switch or a bad panel. If anyone has pictures of what the switches should look like please post them.

Happy memorial day!'
Nick

 

[bigpanda16]

The switches commonly burn up that control the parking and head lights. Pull yours, I bet you'll find the dimmer coil burnt through. Either way, it is something to check. The fuse also first, but that is obvious

 

[BrotherNick]

The coil I just replaced but what I did notice it what the plug that the head light controller plugs into seems burnt. Il replace that and check the fuses

 

[riotwarrior]

Sounds to me like having the TANK and the fuel pump and IP all gummed up could be a problem

Do a search for TECH 101 then scroll down the list and find the one on Lubro Moly Diesel Purge and watch those videos!

It may be a good idea to try that with the truck and IP in the situation you are in. It just may help get the beast back on it's feet!

While your running as show in the video, you can use straight diesel in your fuel tanks and pump the lines, and fuel select valve clean while the engine runs on the Diesel Purge. Just have a seperate line from your lift pump squirt into another catch container instead of the fuel filter. I'd think this would be great to kill two birds with one stone myself.

I'd worry as I first stated on getting this thing to run correctly then play with electrical.

Good luck with it.

Al

 

[BrotherNick]

Thanks! il try that and se how she does. I cleaned the tank as best I could and it came out nicely. Now I have to put everything back together and see how she does.