N/A Performance build.

88 Ford

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From what I have read, they have been doing it for a while. I'm not sure about it being like a tractor but I still think it revs just as high as stock...

Also I don't think its on their sure anymore. I think you have to call about it.
 

Devon Harley

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Call about it an it's like 2500. Cam it port it polish clean up fuel a really nice intake turn fuel up. If auto banks trans command it. You can make a n/a Idi pull like a big block power wise. Not speed wise. Also true duals an headers would help you should be able to build an n/a around 180-190 hp that would be it an doing it all up right. Time on dyno to set it to full peak power also.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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holy crap.that can't be worth it.that'll buy ya a brand new banks sidewinder turbocharger and be easier/quicker to install.no doubt give far more enjoyable results.
 

jaed_43725

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I am not trying to make a fast truck. I am trying to make improvements for how I drive it. And NA works the best for me. Besides I can do an NA build much cheaper than a turbo kit where I am.

Does anyone have any answers to my other questions especially about the tranny? I really hate the C6. I found a NV4500 kit that looks good, only a bit pricey. What about some of the Eaton-Fuller and such trannys? And before you say it, a ZF-5 is very expensive where I live.

Also about that NA I6 any ideas on that.
 

Knuckledragger

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Ok, you don't want a turbo because....why? I haven't installed a turbo on my truck because I don't need it. And you hate the C6 why? They are bullet proof transmissions that will last a long time and handle about any HP or torque that you can throw at them, but they are still only a three speed.

I am not trying to insult you, just get you to clarify your position about what you want to do. The N/A engines will do the work all day long, just not real fast. They do not respond to intake changes very much because the power is in the amount of fuel delivered and burned. An N/A engine with a really *******' wicked smooth intake manifold will deliver maybe 172 hp instead of 170. Torque may go up a little more, but the investment is just not worth the results delivered. You want more poop out of your N/A? Fool with the IP settings (with some learned help, of course) and you can roll some serious coal. Still won't beat a PS or Fummins, but it won't cost an arm and leg either.

Stroker kit will lighten your wallet but the compression ratio will still be about 21:1. Any more and you have head gasket problems forever. again with the spending too much money for the return. If you don't want to pay for a ZF, get a T19 for a lot less, and only one gear less. If you are tooling around town, you will never notice the difference. If you are on the highway, you won't notice much difference. You would only notice a difference if you were towing some heavy load up a hill.

So, what's it going to be? Spend a bunch of time and money for not much HP or to avoid buying a turbo, or just get into the truck and drive it. You decide.
 

jaed_43725

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I dont want a turbo because its not necessary for what I do. The truck is fast enough, I just need more power for pulling or wheeling. And a turbo wont help on the trail because I wont have boost off idle. I hate all automatics. The C6 is just a failure in that its an auto without OD.

I have already worked the injection. After I do my intake an head work I will do more. Simple fact is that with a better intake and head work I get more air in, and probably a good bit more.

I can pick up Eatons and other trannys all day long for cheap. I need OD, so a T19 wont work. I will skip the stroker kit, as they are really expensive.

So the only questions left are what are my tranny options so I can start calling places and can I raise the compression if I fire ring and ARP the thing?
 

Wyreth

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If your truck is fast enough, and you just need more grunt on the trail. Wouldn't an underdrive unit before a divorced transfer case do that for you? I agree with you about autos, altho I do not hate the c6 quite as much as others. Simply because it is, as mentioned, bullet proof. It really is. Personally, because they're everywhere around here, I will eventually be switching out to a ZF.

Now I haven't seen flow numbers on our intake manifolds. But simply looking at them, it must be abysmal. However even with a flowbench to test and build a full custom lowrise. At diesel RPMs you're really only looking at the cylinder getting like 5% more air. To get that high you'll likely need larger valves as well. That's not going to let you burn much more fuel.

Really forced induction is the simplest and best way to get more power from a diesel. However Seawalkersee did a supercharger, the only downside he had was the noise. That would give you off idle boost, and turbo power numbers. Granted it wouldn't be bolt on like a turbo, but it wouldn't cost much more out of pocket. Also if it ends up adversely effecting your highway mileage, you can clutch it.

As far as raising compression. That'd likely be more money than stroking it, if it is even possible. An IDI is already absurdly high compression, and because of the pre-cup I think you're simply out of piston travel. I mean they already protrude into the head. The pre-cup is really the only air space left at TDC. That and it would only get you a little more torque, and only just a little.

Diesels are a very simple equation. Your power depends on how much fuel you can burn. How much fuel you can burn depends on how much oxygen you can get into the cylinder. To get more than about 150-175hp out of these motors, you simply have to force more air in there. A turbo will push more, and do it more efficiently; but a supercharger will do it instantly.

That's my two cents.
 

Iowa 73

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If you want more N/A trail grunt with an intake and head work, put a 460 in it...
You can spend a bunch of money for small improvements just to "sound cool": it's your money, but short of a turbo you are wasting money trying to add power to these engines.
I usually keep my opinions to myself, but had to jump in on this one...
 

Kalashnikov

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You don't need to bother with the engine, you just need to find a gear ration you like. I find it hard to believe the ZF is that expensive. There are tons of them out there. That's probably the best thing you're gonna get and you'll have OD. From the sounds of it you'll definitely want to twin stick it but that's gonna cost you more too. With the ZF, 1st gear is low enough to just let off the clutch.

What are you running for tires, gearing, and a transmission as is? You realize if you're running just off idle as is you'll never have tons of power since you aren't even using any of the powerband. What you're asking really make no sense. You don't want to push the pedal to get over things from the sounds of it.

As far as towing is concerned, turbo, turbo, turbo. More pressure from exhaust such as with a load IE towing is going to create more boost. Adding a turbo is the single best thing for towing that you can do.
 

johnnyb1

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I know what you mean about the C6. When I go to Raliegh or Clayton I try to take back roads. At 70 MPH my 6.9 is screaming!!! But last week my son was driving to Garner {on 64} and it threw a rod through the oil pan. When I change the engine I'm changing the trans. too. I would love to find an OD for it but too expensive. I'll try a E4OD I think. Like you said, build it for how you use it. I wonder if a tractor engine like IH 574 or 674 would be what you're looking for. I knew a guy in Ohio that put a Duetz tractor engine in his Chevy farm truck. It was brute!! Just a thought.
 

redneckaggie

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If the truck is a trail rig some form of underdrive would serve you best, If it is a tow rig a turbo will suit you best. If it is both do both, you are talking about money trying to build a na idi.

t19(bulletproof manual) +2 or 3 speed manual splitter and turbo and you will have the best of both worlds.....
 

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