my rewiring thread

[Greg5OH]

Quesfion regardibg return lines and how they are routed.
Looking at thr top of the engine from the front. The rear injectors, is it just a line that ties the two sides together? then same thing on the front injecofrs? Where does the return originate from? I remeber a line from ghe filter head.
Someone jold my hand on this one lol.

 

[79jasper]

You must be registered for see images

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[Greg5OH]

tha tis great thanks jasper!

so return to fuel tank is from that T on the right rear corner of the engine, this tie in the return from left, right bank as well as the pump i see.
question regarding the front right (as looking at the pic) injector. is the one side of the return cap plugged? On each corner injector i have the 90 degree cap.

also : olives. I got two different sizes of thick O ring peices in Russ' return line kit, I dont know where these go, theyre no way they go in between the injector and injection line, when i took my old set off its just metal on metal contact..

EDIT:, i see the olives ar eonly for the steel line from the filter to the back of the IP. does the olive go in between the flares or do i slip it OVER the flare?

 

[89Laredo]

Does the return setup really matter much? Mine is alot different, I had to change it when I put the turbo on.

 

[sassyrel]

"a device that detects or senses heat, light, sound, motion, etc., and then reacts to it in a particular way"
I guess you're technically correct but I have always used "switch" to describe something that only turns on and off (ex: Thermostatic switch, oil pressure dummy light switch, ac pressure switch, etc). I googled the part number for what we are talking about, and Id say 90% of sites call it a switch, Ford and international do too.
I use sender/sensor to describe something that actually sends a signal to a computer, gauge, etc.

Dont believe me? Call your local international dealer and ask them what the definition of 1803082c2 is.
Or Ford and ask for E8TZ-9E939-A.

your way then....................

 

[Greg5OH]

FYI just found this.
The ultimate (or proper IMO) return setup would be ... (using a 7.3 NON turbo Installation kit)
The return line from the IP goes to the first Injector on the left bank through all the Injectors to a return tee at the back of the motor ... This allows air to bleed from the IP as well as coolant for the left bank of Injectors!

The return line from the filter head goes to the first Injector on the right bank and through all the Injectors to the return tee at the back of the motor ... This allows air to bleed from the filter as well as coolant to the right bank of Injectors!

this pic ythanks to oero off FTE

You must be registered for see images attach

f8iunny I came across that poast when searchign for hydroboost routing.

 

[89Laredo]

Mine is like this.

You must be registered for see images attach

Red is the factory hard line from the IP, Black is the hose going to the fuel filter, Yellow is the factory barbed "tee" at the back of the engine.

 

[Agnem]

Mine is like this.

You must be registered for see images attach

Red is the factory hard line from the IP, Black is the hose going to the fuel filter, Yellow is the factory barbed "tee" at the back of the engine.

This is the preferred routing in my opinion. I've outlined some routes on our web site. http://conestogadiesel.com/support/fuellineroutingoptionsforfordidiengines.html

 

[Greg5OH]

laredo, how did you cap off the passnger rear port on the cap?

 

[Greg5OH]

Mel any specific reason your is designed in that layout?

 

[79jasper]

The olive goes over the flare. Look inside the line nut.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[Greg5OH]

i guess this is why i had fuel in the valley all the time, there was almost no olive left when i took it off lol

 

[Agnem]

There is a single nipple cap available. It comes in our 6.9/7.3 kit and is also available separately. The reasoning for my routing is 31 years of experience working on IDI's. The cross over in the very back is a bad idea for a few reasons. One is, if the hose rubs through and you have a leak, it can be tough to find it. Also if you add a turbo, it is in the way. It's also back there with the glow plug controller in some applications. Why would you want a hose you can't reach, can't see, and can't protect, allll the way back there? Nobody makes the 3 nipple cap anymore, that was on the factory turbo models, so those owners need to reroute anyway, unless they want a bunch of T's connecting things, and there is really no valid technical reason it should cross in the middle like that. There is no "right" way to route these lines. All that is required is that fuel can return, and if you achieve that, then it is "right". However, "right" and "better" are as different as "preffered" and "necessary".

 

[Greg5OH]

teh starter signal wire, that basically goes hot when cranking? do i need it to do a temp hook up? Just need to spin the neigne over and there is no wiring. ground the battery, and have the positive sid eon the fat lug on starter, then touch the other end of that to the battery?

 

[89Laredo]

Ground to block, b+ to starter, then the small wire from starter is your trigger

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk