My New Truck (My New List of things to fix!)

firemedicmonkey

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For those of you who have not been following the story of my first diesel. Here is what I have and what I figure needs to be done. :hail Feel free to add things you can think off and or suggestions for how to go about getting this done. I have heard and expect to spend about what I spent on the truck in fixing it up to what I want it to be. :rolleyes: So here it is. Before anyone gets grumpy yes I am searching previous posts to find what answers I can to my questions. ;Sweet

I have always wanted a diesel and finally after doing a lot of research on bio-diesel and decided to plunk down some cash and get started. 1993 Ford F-250 XLT 4x4 Single Cab Long Bed 7.3 Diesel Auto I think that you can see more pics of it in my garage.
Whats been done: :thumbsup:
New Glow-Plugs
New Starter
New Front Springs
New Front Brake Pads
1 New Caliper
New Ball Joints
New Tie Rod Ends
New U joints
New Front Drive Shaft
New Exhaust, straigh pipe no muffler no cat, 2.5" straight back.

Things That Need to be done. :backoff
Brakes:
The ABS light is on on the dash, and if I have to slam on the brakes like happened on the way home they lock up way to easy and I go a sliding. I think I am going to need todo a back brake job on it, aswell as diagnosing and fixing the abs problem. I also want to replace the rotors and the other caliper. I want to replace the brake hoses all the way around.
Drive Train:
The truck seems to shift hard in the first several gears. I am not sure if this is how the E4OD shifts or if it is a problems spot. I would much rather have a manual but I think converting an auto to a manual would be a little too much work. Also I would like to figure out the source of the mysterious oily substance covering the under side of the truck. Read my other recent post. I think that is possibly a rear main seal or pan gasket. Either way I would like to drain and clean the tranny, give it a new filter and fluid. I would also like to flush and change the fluid in the rear-end, front-end, and transfer case. As well i would like to change the bearings and seals. :angel:
Suspension:
The truck right now is a pretty rough ride. I know that is what you get with a big rig like this. But I need to replace the shocks all the way around. I want to change out the rear suspension with 1 ton gear (shocks and springs). New sway bars and polygraphite bushings all the way around.
Exterior:
I need replace the fenders and either get a new bed or repair a bunch of rust on the bed. Need a new tail-gate or atleast the insides and workings of the latchs. I want to replace the rediculously heavy dute bumber with a ranch hand type rear and then remove the current plow and put it on my other truck. I want to put a new western unimount pro plow on this truck. Slap some paint on it.
Interior:
Headlight switch needs replacing, the dash light dont always come on and the know wont stay on. Driver window motor needs replaced or repaired b/c the window wont go up on its own. The heater control needs replaced b/c the temp knob sticks and the blower only has one speed, so the blower motor may need replaced. The A/C needs repair. Of Course its gonna get a complete aftermarket stereo system. The lock switch on the passenger side needs a fixing, The general interior needs some cleaning and brightening. Just with what used parts I can find, nothing major just replacing broken pieces and cleaning what I can. Possible seat repair.
Engine:
Oil Tested and Changed. Coolant drained, flushed and filled, with proper fluid with scas. New fuel filter and fuels system cleaning (thanks to bio-diesel) Repair or replace rear fuel tank, and test and possibly repair or replace both sending units. K&N cold air intake. Possible short block rebuild but hopefully not.

I got a lot of other aftermarket and performance stuff I want to mess around with but this is the short list I have compiled on what I really need todo to make it a realiable transportation/ tow vehicle, and an experimental test bed for running bio-diesel and wmo. Some day when I can afford it I will get exactly what I want in an extended cab and a manual tranny with gear vendors. So I am not going to get too crazy with this truck. This is my learning truck. let me know what you guys think. :hail
 

94f450sd

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the F250s ride harder then he!!.and its gonna be worse when you replace the shocks.

cant help you with the ABS as i just pull the bulb out and forget about it.usually costs more to fix it than its worth.

the transmission is gonna shift hard as long as the overdrive is blinking.bring it to a shop to get the codes pulled from the tranny computer.the DLC plug for the scanner to plug into should be on thedrivers under the hood near the firewall,possibly clipped to the fender

as far as the plow goes get the western off it and put a fisher on it.i never like a western plow.they like to lay down on the job.


nice lookin truck.with a little work she will be a sweet lookin truck
 

deanj

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Have you still got the stock turbo down pipe and down pipe housing? These engines like to breath, you need at least 3 inch (ATS housing and down pipe). Do the intake mods either the drivers side rad support or cowl air. Then you can turn up the pump, get your timming checked. The abs lite flashing can be related to the brake lites, check your fuse and switch. Trans, is your od lite flashing? disconnect the - battery cables, reconnect then drive to your local parts store and have them read the codes (or buy a code reader from wally mart) You need the tac, vss and flip functioning correctly for the trans to operate in normal mode, if any of these are out it will go into limp mode - hard irratic shifts. Do not use for any length of time you will fry the T/C. Use diesel clean or equ with every fill up. Head lites, change the switch and do the relay mods to the head lites and running lites, common problem is for the switch and connector to fry.
 

94f450sd

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deanj said:
Have you still got the stock turbo down pipe and down pipe housing? These engines like to breath, you need at least 3 inch (ATS housing and down pipe). Do the intake mods either the drivers side rad support or cowl air. Then you can turn up the pump, get your timming checked. The abs lite flashing can be related to the brake lites, check your fuse and switch. Trans, is your od lite flashing? disconnect the - battery cables, reconnect then drive to your local parts store and have them read the codes (or buy a code reader from wally mart) You need the tac, vss and flip functioning correctly for the trans to operate in normal mode, if any of these are out it will go into limp mode - hard irratic shifts. Do not use for any length of time you will fry the T/C. Use diesel clean or equ with every fill up. Head lites, change the switch and do the relay mods to the head lites and running lites, common problem is for the switch and connector to fry.


first,dont waste your money on the ATS upgrade parts.i did and the downpipe to elbow connection leaks like hel.the slip fit of the 2 parts is like throwing a hotdog down a hallway.go back a few pages and you will see my threads about it.


2nd DO NOT disconnect the batteries before haveing the codes read.if you do this is will clear the ECMs memory and youll never know what the problem is/was untill it starts flashing again by then it could be too late to fix it.the auto parts stores and walmart scanners can not read the ECM in these trucks.you need to go to a tranny shop or repair shop and have the codes read.
 

9073

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One caliper replaced?

Working on brakes is like a math equation:

"What you do to one side, you must do to the other"

When you do wheel cylinders in the back replace them both as well.

godd luck
 

firemedicmonkey

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9073 said:
One caliper replaced?

Working on brakes is like a math equation:

"What you do to one side, you must do to the other"

When you do wheel cylinders in the back replace them both as well.

godd luck

Yeah that was my thoughts exactly, why didnt he do them both. I can deffinatly tell the difference, the truck pulls to the right a bit. Brakes are my specialty. Thinking about redoing all the brakes all the way around from the master cylinder down. I bed that would fix the abs, it fixed it in my dads 87 F-150. Is there any place to get pre-bent stainless lines for these trucks. The ones in LMC are for 80-86.
 

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