Timing light.
First make sure all your vacuum lines are good.
Then you have to unhook a wire near the firewall. It's a single wire. Black with orange tracer IIRC.
Then hook the clamp on the number one sparkplug wire.
Clean off the timing tab near the harmonic dampener. Use chalk to trace the timing mark on the dampener.
Start truck and aim light at the tab.
I usually loosen the distributor hold down clamp just enough to be able to turn it. Also usually wear a leather glove. :lol
Okay I'll have to check that out. But also another question, is it a major issue for the dipstick to read about 2 qts low in between oil changes? I have no visual oil leaks and the truck dosen't smoke. It'll smoke on a cold start a little but every truck does that.
Firstly, what is your oil change interval?
Be exact. You won't be flamed or anything from going over or anything like that. We all get busy and forget.
Every 3000. Using 10w-30 high miliage. Either pennzoil or whatevers on sale. I use 4 quarts of oil and a quart of lucas. And I pulled the pvc out the other day and it rattles when you shake it. I believe thats what it should do; correct me if im wrong.
I've never used the lucas stuff, but in a way could see that causing it to burn some.
I would put in some MMO, ATF, or Seafoam. If you're getting near an oil change.
Instead of lucas, get the silver metal can of "engine restore," the v8 size.
That's what I've used for chevy gas engines and actually seen differences.
Okay jasper, Im not due for a change for about a 1000 miles but ill try that. And also, I jacked up my front end to check everything and all my tie rods and ball joints are tight but i did notice that my right front wheel will not spin freely. It will spin almost a full turn but you have to force it the last little bit. The left front tire spins freely. So I replaced my rotors thinking warped rotor and replaced the hub assembly with the wheel bearings and the tire still does not spin freely? What gives? Is it supposed to be that way or what?
Yeah it dont have manual hubs. You just gotta pull the lever back. And it seems to be getting stuck close to the differential. Maybe the fluid needs changed
Front differential. It'll be the only thing with wires coming off it. It screws in. I think it used like a 1¼ wrench or something.
When I bought one years ago, it cost like $75 or so.
You can get a manual cable operated one. Then it'll actually engage right when you need/want it too.
Even after I replaced mine, I would get worried in sticky situations because it would still take a bit to engage. But if you're smart and lock it in before previous said situations, you shouldn't have a problem.
I just liked testing 2wd capabilities. Lol
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