justinray
Contributor
Does anyone know if the mechanical lift pump would have any problem pumping straight engine oil? Like right from the pan oil?
Mech. Lift Pump for oil?
- Thread starter justinray
- Start date
pwjackson
Full Access Member
It would pump straight oil from my fuel tank as long as it wasn't cold outside.
Same here
justinray
Contributor
Im thinking about tapping 2 holes into the oil pan having a line out, to the mech pump, out of that to a transmission fluid cooler, then back to the oil pan. This would do miracles for oil temps, and in turn to overall engine temps.
justinray
Contributor
Part of my heat shedding ideas.
pwjackson
Full Access Member
Don't see why that wouldn't work
justinray
Contributor
Sounds like a good idea.
My overall system will hopefully look like this, from front to back.
Grill
Intercooler
Ac Condenser
Champion Radiator
(Bottom Right:Oil Cooler; Top Right:14" Fan; Bottom Left:14" Fan; Top Left:Cooler Between Heater Core outlet and Engine)
Engine.
I think between the extra oil cooler and the extra cooler between the heater core and engine I should lose some farenheit and be able to push a little harder than if I didn't. Maybe not entirely necessary, but hey, why not?.
My overall system will hopefully look like this, from front to back.
Grill
Intercooler
Ac Condenser
Champion Radiator
(Bottom Right:Oil Cooler; Top Right:14" Fan; Bottom Left:14" Fan; Top Left:Cooler Between Heater Core outlet and Engine)
Engine.
I think between the extra oil cooler and the extra cooler between the heater core and engine I should lose some farenheit and be able to push a little harder than if I didn't. Maybe not entirely necessary, but hey, why not?.
i can't think of why you shouldn't do this.it's interesting! normally you can't run the smaller lines/coolers for oil due to too much restriction,but you'd have your own devoted pump,so it wouldn't matter i guess.
for winter,you could just unhook it.
do you know what your oil temps are now?
could a little lift pump flow oil fast enough through a trans cooler to make any difference at all anyway? i guess that's the question.
that's a really frigging neat idea.
for winter,you could just unhook it.
do you know what your oil temps are now?
could a little lift pump flow oil fast enough through a trans cooler to make any difference at all anyway? i guess that's the question.
that's a really frigging neat idea.
Last edited:
Oog
Full Access Member
Can the oil be too hot for the diaphragm? Excellent idea, I do believe I shall do that for my zf though.
idiabuse
Full Access Member
Just buy synthetic oil it is cheaper than all that...
Javier
Javier
rlb245
Full Access Member
Had this Idea 4 months ago. I'm one of those guys how has to sit down and put it on paper first. I ve tried a couple of pumps . But right now looking at a gear pump. The 5/8" Line transmission coolers works good. But flow rate with diaphram pump is not consitent. Still working on it. I love this stuff! Sorry don't mean to rain on anyones parade. Just love these's concepts
justinray
Contributor
Even if the flow is inconsistent, it hast to be relative to engine speed, and somewhere upwards of 35 gal/hr to keep up with what it was intended for.
While synthetic may be cheaper, a 20' stretch of 1/2" tubing can be had for free at work, And I could flush my transmission cooler and use it when I do the T19 swap, so i'll be out $30 for the new lift pump because my old one was toast. So it's really more of a time thing than a money thing.
Thats part of the beauty of the idea, if it can't, and the diaphragm pops, all that will happen is the oil will go into the oil pan! If it happens more than once though, I'll start looking for different pumping ideas.
i can't think of why you shouldn't do this.it's interesting! normally you can't run the smaller lines/coolers for oil due to too much restriction,but you'd have your own devoted pump,so it wouldn't matter i guess.
for winter,you could just unhook it.
do you know what your oil temps are now?
could a little lift pump flow oil fast enough through a trans cooler to make any difference at all anyway? i guess that's the question.
that's a really frigging neat idea.
I use the heck out of my block heater in the winter, so imho that shouldn't even be an issue. The pump in it's intended use pumps 35+ gal/hr at 7psi through a 3/8" fuel line, thats more than half a gallon a minute, granted I'll be using bigger lines, it would likely be more, and it's flow rate is entirely dependent on engine speed, I think flowing half a gallon a minute trough a cooler would help a lot, it will just be one more way for the engine to shed heat, so it can't possibly make temps hotter. It would also add capacity, about 4 quarts actually iirc, so that will help too. I don't have accurate temp readings of my oil right now, but often shoot different areas of my truck with a temp gun at work when I get there, and have seen 220* on the oil pan! Thats when I decided some sort of modification would be nice.
Understand that I'm not doing this because I think my oil itself is getting too hot, but because I know that the oil carries off engine heat with it, and does a better job of doing that when it's cool than hot. It will take a little bit of a load off the coolant system, and allow me to work the truck a little harder before I start to worry. The oil probably lasting longer, and giving a better service while in the engine is just a happy side effect.
that's the same thing i did to check my oil temps.if i had 220 oil temps i wouldn't touch a thing.that's perfect.
if you don't run up over 200 like that,then the oil won't shed condensation.
im getting over 260F at the pan after i pull a hill even just slightly loaded.
im installing a 200F t-stat in front of my aux air oil cooler and may still want to bypass it all together in the winter.
you want the oil to reach operating temps.
iv got a oil pan with a slow leak anyway and you know leaks never get any better,so i'll take the pan right off and have a bung welded for my temp sender.iv got the banks/dynafact oil temp gauge all installed and ready to wire up sender now.
220-230 oil temps are ideal.don't alter perfection is my advice.
if you do though,just keep checking the oil temps in the winter.you don't want her to over cool and never come up to ideal operating temp.
if you don't run up over 200 like that,then the oil won't shed condensation.
im getting over 260F at the pan after i pull a hill even just slightly loaded.
im installing a 200F t-stat in front of my aux air oil cooler and may still want to bypass it all together in the winter.
you want the oil to reach operating temps.
iv got a oil pan with a slow leak anyway and you know leaks never get any better,so i'll take the pan right off and have a bung welded for my temp sender.iv got the banks/dynafact oil temp gauge all installed and ready to wire up sender now.
220-230 oil temps are ideal.don't alter perfection is my advice.
if you do though,just keep checking the oil temps in the winter.you don't want her to over cool and never come up to ideal operating temp.
justinray
Contributor
The thing with me worrying about the 220* is that I'm extremely easy on my truck when unloaded, and that was just a trip to work, 50 miles at that time. I've seen them hotter, upwards of 270* pulling hard but didn't put that number because that's not my average driving.
Justin: Read your PM to me.
At the Ford Lime engine plant , we ran tests on a 460 CID engine of the oil temp coming off the cylinder walls with the engine running WOT and full load in the Dyno room. That Oil temp was ~360* , overall pan oil temp ran ~240*. On a Diesel , you have squiters to cool the cylinder walls, no idea how hot that oil is. My oil temp right after the oil cooler runs just about the same as the coolant temp, maybe ~10* degrees higher. Just remember, a diesel generates a lot of vibration due to the high combustion, any steel (hard) lines have to be well braced, or they will in fact break.
At the Ford Lime engine plant , we ran tests on a 460 CID engine of the oil temp coming off the cylinder walls with the engine running WOT and full load in the Dyno room. That Oil temp was ~360* , overall pan oil temp ran ~240*. On a Diesel , you have squiters to cool the cylinder walls, no idea how hot that oil is. My oil temp right after the oil cooler runs just about the same as the coolant temp, maybe ~10* degrees higher. Just remember, a diesel generates a lot of vibration due to the high combustion, any steel (hard) lines have to be well braced, or they will in fact break.
