Manual control of 6.9 GP system?

Sycostang67

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A friend of mine recently awoke an 84-86 6.9 from a 2 year slumber. He appears to be having a problem with the GP controller and wants to just go to manual control. I checked the tech articles but only found the 7.3 write up. How do you wire the 6.9 GP system for manual control?
 

FordGuy100

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On the controller there are the two main wires and then the two smaller ones. Look for the purple wire...mine was so old it was kinda brown, it is the small wire towards the front of the truck. Run a fused power line into the cab to some sort of momentary on switch, and then back to the little stud, put a small bolt in it to hold it down, and your good to go.
 

timothyr1014

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totally agree with above however I would make sure that the wire is switched power and not constant....that way they are only able to come on when the keys are there. last thing you want is to have someone pushing the button just for the fun of it and burning them up for you.

Another thing (just recently finished this on my 85) is swapping I replaced all of my zd1a's with zd9's. you have to swap to a bullet connector, but they will survive a little longer duration, and kragen/o'rileys/checker had them for $5 ea
 

EricW

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A friend of mine recently awoke an 84-86 6.9 from a 2 year slumber. He appears to be having a problem with the GP controller and wants to just go to manual control. I checked the tech articles but only found the 7.3 write up. How do you wire the 6.9 GP system for manual control?

No, it's more like 7 years.

The trouble is, the plugs all light up when tested and when the switch is pushed (the system was converted to button back in the 90's) and the GP controller/solenoid clicks when the button is pressed...

Other than leaky return lines, sheet metal falling apart, rust taking over, and the grenaded D50, it's one hell of a runner...

Dan, why is my truck in your sig? :D

Justin, is that the same truck that I've seen on YouTube???
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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Yep, the crop duster is the famous red youtube IDI truck.

Not sure what your problem is with the GP system. Sounds to me like you already have it controlled manually.
 

Agnem

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6.9 controller should be replaced with a 1/2" pipe plug. Just as intelligent, but less likely to fry your plugs. LOL Just find the purple wire on the controller, cut it and run the wire into the cab from there. The wiring will be neater, and you'll save money on the length of run. ;Sweet
 

cornbinder 84

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The trouble is, the plugs all light up when tested and when the switch is pushed (the system was converted to button back in the 90's) and the GP controller/solenoid clicks when the button is pressed...

If the solenoid on the passenger side inner fender just clicks more than likely it is bad if you already have a push button wired up to the purple wire. I think I got one for my truck at NAPA for about $27.
 

timothyr1014

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okay, clarifiation...it should give one click when you apply power, and another when power is taken away....if it is clicking more than that you have a bad solenoid.
 

EricW

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If the solenoid on the passenger side inner fender just clicks more than likely it is bad if you already have a push button wired up to the purple wire. I think I got one for my truck at NAPA for about $27.

It sounds like a solenoid always does when power is put to it, I just interpret that as an audible click...

okay, clarifiation...it should give one click when you apply power, and another when power is taken away...
correct
 

Sycostang67

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Wow, you actually showed up. :D

The truck shall remain in my sig until it has been delivered. Besides, I may still swipe a few parts you wont be needing when you drop the 6.9 in it. :sly
 

EricW

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okay, clarifiation...it should give one click when you apply power, and another when power is taken away....if it is clicking more than that you have a bad solenoid.
Could it still be bad even if it sounds like its working right?
 

Sycostang67

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You have other fords laying around, swap in another solenoid and see if it works.
 

cornbinder 84

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You can test the soleniod with a test light and a jumper wire. Take off the purple wire off of the little terminal. Put the test light on the big terminal going to the glow plug harness (usually the large terminal on the firewall side). Then use the jumper wire to jump from the positive battery post to the small terminal that you took the purple wire off of. If the test light lights up the solenoid is good. Just don't hold the jumper on the small terminal to long if the testlight does come on because that means your glow plugs should be burning. Basically when 12 volts is applied to the little terminal where purple wire is both big terminals will have 12 volts on them. Take away the 12 volts from the little terminal and you will only have 12 volts on one of the big terminals(battery side). Well I believe I made that as clear as mudLOL.
 

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