major fuel leak after timing the ip pump!!

[pottenza]

i finaly been able to time my ip pump!! right now, my timing is at 10,2 for now.....


i have a new problem!!! major fuel leak just happen right after we turn the pump!!! soon as i start the engine, a see fuel leaking on the grund!! the fuel drop from between the engine and the transmission....

it seem to drain my fuel line because i have to crank it a long time and play with the fuel pedal to make it start!!! and after he start...idle is good....but no power....

do you think i can have crack a fuel line somewhere ???

thank you!!

 

[icanfixall]

Lets look closely at this issue. Your working on a van I think. My thoughts are you broke a return line cap. Are you working mostly from inside the van timing this. Where the fuel is leaking off the back of the engine is where its designed to leak from if a leak develops on top of the engine. It can only drain off the starter side because the valley pan drain thru the top of the block only channels it to that direction. Did you tighten up all the loose injector lines.

 

[pottenza]

yes im working on a E350!! and i didnt loose any fuel or return line when we have time the pump!!!

 

[icanfixall]

So how did you get the stuck pump to move for the timing change. You posted about the pump would not move. This is why I ask. What did you use to make the pump move. Where did you grab ahold of the pump to turn it.

 

[pottenza]

I put a 3/4 wrench on the knob in the front of the pump!!! And with a turnbuckle i finaly make her move!!!

 

[gandalf]

If you had to use a turnbuckle on the wrench then that IP really did not want to move. One question is, why was it so tight if you loosened all three nuts holding it?

I think I'd take a very good look at the hard lines between the IP and each injector. If they were keeping the IP from moving to that extent, then it's quite possible to do damage to them. Feel along the entire length of each hard line looking for cracks. If that doesn't work, start the engine and look for leaks. If necessary, start from the bottom, where you see it dripping, and work your way uphill. If you follow the fuel trail, you should find the source.

 

[pottenza]

and i put the timing at 10,2... do you think i should bring it to 9.5 ??? do you think i will see a difference? if yes, on what?? power? mpg? faster throttle respond ?

 

[vegas39]

Doesn't the fuel supply line into the pump have an olive in it? I'm wondering if moving the pump disturbed it enough to cause a problem, especially if it was at the point of letting go anyway.
also, you may have cracked an injector line, which seems rare but stranger things have happened. Maybe you have an injector line that was not completely tight and moving the pump jarred it loose enough to leak.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

I would back the timing down some. I never go higher than 9.5.... and as for the leak, check the inlet line to the pump, and all return lines.

 

[icanfixall]

Checking the olives in the filter to pump feed line is a great place to look for leaks. If the engine is running do not feel the hard lines for leaks or cracks. Those lines have at least 1850 lbs of fuel pressure on them. Shut down the engine to feel for cracks.

 

[pottenza]

so, i find my leaking!!! its the automatic advance, on the bottom driver side of the pump, who came out of the pump....not to sure how that happen??? so now i have to take the pump out...and bring here to the injection shop and see what i can do with it!!!

 

[icanfixall]

Thats a happy ending but a sad ending to the leak. Only one way that plunger can come out of the pump. Thats breaking the lever arm. Now the piston does have a seal on it that will leak. If the internals are ok you can just replace the seal but have a injection shop do it. It has a special driver to install it the proper depth. At least you can time the engine again easy or make a timing mark like a center punch mark in the pump yo housing joint. Then just match it up when the same pump goes back on.