looking for advise. blown 6bta/E350

[rebar]

Hi new here.

Iv got a 95 E350 with a IC 12v swapped in. NV4500 3.54 gears. Ran great (29 mpg unloaded) until I tried to tow my 8000 lb toyhauler to Colorado. Fuel was at the pedal but my egt's were to high for me to use it.

Short story is I started blowing white start up smoke in the morning.. OK, head gasket time.. But later looks like I have oil coming from the top of the dipstick tube. Massive blow by. ran the entire trip with same power. Had to shift to 4th on the plains on long hills holding 55 mph. Shifted down to 3rd on 7% Colorado pass grade at 33 mph. No tach.

Regardless, I don't trust the engine and need more power and cooler egt's. Can those go hand in hand?

Or would my 1990 inter cooled slightly tweaked 12 valve H1C turbo give me enough power to hold 75 on the plains if I simply rebuild it? Or gear down since I was lugging it in 5th at 65? If I could have lowered my egt's I could have run the 75 mph I was told it could do.

I don't think I would be happy if I ended up with the same power after a rebuild so Im starting to wonder what I can do with my limited space.
Any suggestions? Can I remote mount a compound setup?

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[kc0stp]

P-pumped or VE pump? Quite frankly the power potential of a 6bt is only limited by its ability to be a DD (roughly 750whp). As far as keeping EGTs down with a properly matched turbo/pump setup you should never have to worry about EGTs the problem is you cant have the best of everything so people normally compromise with higher egts for better low end or... Depending on how the dog house fits on it looks like you have a ton of room for compounds in there with the first turbo where your current is and secondary between it and the motor mount. Unfortunately any turbo upgrades you do will have to be custom fabricated as Im 99% sure no one makes a kit for an E350.

*edit* just noticed the part about a Dodge tranny, quite frankly that will be your weakest link to adding any more power, quite frankly the Dodge trannies can hardly handle the stock power let alone any upgraded power.

 

[rebar]

P-pumped or VE pump?.

VE pump

Quite frankly the power potential of a 6bt is only limited by its ability to be a DD (roughly 750whp).

Its not a DD. I drive it once in a while to keep the cobwebs out but its purpose is to haul me and my toys to Colorado and back to Iowa once or twice a year. I wouldn't mind spanking my coworker with a 06 6 leaker who's always talking trash on my cummins

As far as keeping EGTs down with a properly matched turbo/pump setup you should never have to worry about EGTs the problem is you cant have the best of everything so people normally compromise with higher egts for better low end or...

Well, obviously something is mismatched because as soon as I hooked on to my toyhauler the egt's flew up to 900 (post) trying to run 70 mph. I settled for 65 at 750-800 degrees but I was lugging the engine with my 3.54 gears.

Depending on how the dog house fits on it looks like you have a ton of room for compounds in there with the first turbo where your current is and secondary between it and the motor mount. Unfortunately any turbo upgrades you do will have to be custom fabricated as Im 99% sure no one makes a kit for an E350.

Really? It looked to me like the two turbo's would fit but the piping.. No way.. That's why I asked about turbo relocation. Iv seen a few turbo's relocated to under the vehicle. But I haven't seen a compound system relocation, but also not sure if I need two turbo's.

*edit* just noticed the part about a Dodge tranny, quite frankly that will be your weakest link to adding any more power, quite frankly the Dodge trannies can hardly handle the stock power let alone any upgraded power.

Really? crap! I love my nv4500. A built automatic can handle more power?
Damn this is getting expensive if I have to switch to a auto and all the related linkage I don't have.

I guess I should have just bought a newer truck, but I love the van format. So much room to keep things locked and dry.
I was planning to convert it to 4x4 but that's on hold right now.

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[gonecrazyi]

Back the smoke screw and fuel screws out a little for a little less fuel. The egts you are running really arnt all that hot. Are you sure yiy do t have a timing issue or possibly a bad injector.

 

[rebar]

The egts you are running really arnt all that hot. Are you sure you dont have a timing issue or possibly a bad injector.

The pyro probe is to far back and I really never know what the post (more important) temps were.

Bad news.. Massive blowby. I haven't capped the inlet of the vacuum pump but the tubing to it looks newer. its kaput. I cracked the injector lines and got a lower rougher idle each cylinder. Not allot of white smoke but a steady trail that does smell sweet.


Video below.

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[rebar]

Back the smoke screw and fuel screws out a little for a little less fuel. The egts you are running really arnt all that hot. Are you sure yiy do t have a timing issue or possibly a bad injector.

Timing was stock, but I was told I might have been running marine injectors with the wrong spray angle. The smoke crew cap was missing.

I'm surprised at the cam and crank damage, as the cylinders didn't looks to bad. I'm on the fence about this engine as this is adding up fast for a 95 van..

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[79jasper]

I wander if that could've been from fuel in the oil...

 

[rebar]

I wander if that could've been from fuel in the oil...

Not sure.. But it wont happen again.

My Machinist mentioned the cylinders didn't look so bad, but still no word yet.

I spoke with Zach Hamilton about his 178-208 cam. But after I explained what I wanted from my tow vehicle he said..

""If it were mine, I would get a htbg 57mm s-300 with a 14cm housing and pair it up with a 188-208 cam. That will be enough air to cool your egts quite a bit. On injectors, there are a few options available. You should verify with the choice with an injector company, but I would run a 5x.012" which is a 5 hole nozzle with a .012" orifice , if you want to lean towards economy or 5x.014" if you want to lean towards performance. Also, I would go vco not sac style.""

Think his suggestion is a good plan?

I'm also giving up on Jeff at Mumau Diesel.. I talked to him and it seemed he wanted to help me out. But I then sent a more detailed email which was never answered. Even after I called back and asked a employee to remind him to answer.. Nothing.

So I'm tempted to order my rebuild kit from http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com since Zach linked to it for whatever reason. Decent vendor?

 

[rebar]

I just got a call from my machinist..

He said #1 cylinder had been re sleeved.
A hone job was all that was needed to get the bores in good shape.
Pistons are stock and in reusable condition!
Head needed decked and now only needs valve stem seals to be ready.
Last three crank main bearing surfaces need turned, and he was surprised the bearings didn't spin.

So its good news, but leaves me wondering where all the blow-by came from if the rings didn't fail.
And what took out the last three crank main bearing surfaces? Anyone?

Did this cause the blow by?

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[79jasper]

I don't know Cummins internals, but if that's a oil passage, sure would.

What cylinder is that?

 

[rebar]

I don't know Cummins internals,

Neither do I..

#4 which had allot of oil coming out the exhaust.

Could this crack in my vacuum pump housing cause the blow-by? And what should I do about this? Replace the entire vacuum pump?

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This has me concerned because if the repair doesn't work the engine might have to come back out to address again. And the PS pump almost touch's the motor mount and Im guessing that's how the vac pump housing got damaged.

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[79jasper]

Replacing it is your only choice. Unless you have hydroboost brakes.

Is the vacuum pump gear driven?
I'm just not understanding what it has to do with blow by.

 

[rebar]

Replacing it is your only choice. Unless you have hydroboost brakes.

Is the vacuum pump gear driven?
I'm just not understanding what it has to do with blow by.

Gear driven 1990. I thought a crack may produce more vacuum like a vacuum leak which can cause blow by since the pumps discharge goes to the crank case.

Either way it needed rebuilt. Still don't understand what caused the main bearings to start to fail though.

 

[79jasper]

Ah I see.

Now if that is a oil passage, I wander if that compression leak could've caused a lack of oil to those bearings. (Again, just a wag, and probably way off. But I still think it's related)

 

[rebar]

Thanks.. Machinist said head had not been machined for seals. But he thought top hat's were stock. Valves 5/16"

Im in $750 so far with no parts.. Block, head (minus seals) and crank ready.

Here's the parts list Iv made so far.. I need to get this list accurate before I annoy Jeff with my inexperience.

Full upper and lower gasket and seal aftermarket kit, cummins .061 head gasket ?, But head was decked and Im unsure which thickness head gasket.
valve stem seals.. 5/16 top hat stock?
Green piston oil squirters
Crank and rod journal bearings .25mm oversize =.010
stock size cummins piston rings.
Freeze plugs
cummins oil pump even though mine was fine
Hamilton 188-208 Cam and tappets
cam bearings

Have I forgotten anything? Or not enough info?

Thanks