Looking at a 90 F250 7.3 IDI, have 2 hours to make decision, please help!

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I don't think your being a women really even needs to be mentioned, we are here to help with trucks, not life events. I didnt see the thread but there are thousands of threads on fuel systems issues that can be searched for. There is everything you could ever want to know about repairs to the fuel system on this site, creating a new thread about it isnt necessarily the best option. Some of the experts may get tired of repeating themselves 10 times on the same fuel system issues.

 

[FarmerFrank]

^^ what hims said. Can you visibly see a fuel leak under the hood, particularly around an injector? IMO the return systems on an Idi is the weakest point on these trucks, but it is a simple enough fix


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[madpogue]

Yeah sorry the thread went cold; it just happens sometimes. No reason to attribute it to anything beyond that. Anyway, do you park the truck on a surface that wouldn't show a leak, gravel/dirt or the like? If so, make cardboard your friend. Lay clean cardboard under the truck, including along the fuel lines from the tanks. That should at least help narrow down the leak source.

Generally, how're you liking the truck?

 

[riotwarrior]

Seems i got kicked out of the ol' boys club here just for making a comment about getting my tools taken by an ex-dude. Real is real guys, doesn't mean I should be excommunicated. My new truck's fuel system went cattywompous but since no one on here replied to my previous thread...didn't seem to be much reason to reach out even though ya'll said ask the experts here before getting work done. Sigh.

What "other" thread.

Likely a leaky return cap and O rings.

PM Typ4 he sells quality kits a decent prices.

The overall work isnt too complex but might be a bit messy.

As for tools needed well get em...ya sucks when ***** like that happens.

Yer not kicked out...nope you've been welcomed into the fold and now yer an OBr fkr ever!!!!

JM7.3CW

 

[abacuschicken]

What "other" thread.

Likely a leaky return cap and O rings.

PM Typ4 he sells quality kits a decent prices.

The overall work isnt too complex but might be a bit messy.

As for tools needed well get em...ya sucks when ***** like that happens.

Yer not kicked out...nope you've been welcomed into the fold and now yer an OBr fkr ever!!!!

JM7.3CW

Thanks for the replies sans the smart assey "we aren't here to help with life events" condescending crap. Mechanic has had the rig for a week and starting to cross my fingers he isn't messing about. Was a referral from a solid source and it wasn't running so I had to have it towed within reasonable distance. So far he has told me the lift pump and a line need to be replaced and the bill is approx. $250 for that. Does this jive? this part looks to run $25-$30 bucks online if I researching it correctly. Said he couldn't tell where the leak that is pooling on top of the motor is coming from until he fixes that and can get the air out of the fuel system. Was told he would be checking the IP and return kit after that, but once again, I haven't heard back from since he told me about the lift pump etc.

 

[abacuschicken]

Yeah sorry the thread went cold; it just happens sometimes. No reason to attribute it to anything beyond that. Anyway, do you park the truck on a surface that wouldn't show a leak, gravel/dirt or the like? If so, make cardboard your friend. Lay clean cardboard under the truck, including along the fuel lines from the tanks. That should at least help narrow down the leak source.

Generally, how're you liking the truck?

I LOVE the truck other this. It totally DOES sound like a giant well oiled sewing machine. Very reassuring sounding

 

[madpogue]

Well the lift pump is on the right side of the engine, so it wouldn't be the source of a leak that you're seeing pooling on top. He might have some other reason it should be replaced, though. Lift pump is also not that hard to replace, it's doable with hand tools. You really should look into DIYing some things on this truck. As said, time to start rebuilding your tool set. Your FLAPS should be able to lend you tools as well; you put down a deposit, or leave a credit card number, for the value of the tools, and then it's refunded when you return 'em.

Can you post a pic of the leak pooling on top?

 

[abacuschicken]

^^ what hims said. Can you visibly see a fuel leak under the hood, particularly around an injector? IMO the return systems on an Idi is the weakest point on these trucks, but it is a simple enough fix


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Yes, that is exactly where it is pooling. One ex-military 12v mechanic thought it was a leaking injector. The mechanic that did my buyers inspection said it was the return kit. Now this guy says there is air in the lines and the lift pump and a fuel line are bad.

 

[abacuschicken]

I will see if I can get a picture tomorrow. I don't know where he is at in the work.

 

[Waystro]

Sounds like a injector line having the same problem on my truck it leaks about 2 gallons
I personally like to see on the other side of the screen name we're a family here don't be embarrassed to ask questions or share anything about yourself.

 

[crash-harris]

If your thread goes cold, just make a post to bump it back up to the top. Late night riotwarrior may see it and chime in then. But a few beers makes his typing a bit difficult to understand

If you have diesel pooling on top of the engine, if you can run it just watch for where it leaks. Also feel under the injector line nuts on the IP and fittings on the filter head after shutdown.

 

[riotwarrior]

If your thread goes cold, just make a post to bump it back up to the top. Late night riotwarrior may see it and chime in then. But a few beers makes his typing a bit difficult to understand

If you have diesel pooling on top of the engine, if you can run it just watch for where it leaks. Also feel under the injector line nuts on the IP and fittings on the filter head after shutdown.

Ahh yes the cryptic beerease comes out late at night now n again...mostly cause I type to fast with thumbs on phome n too lazy to correct much of anything....

These guys are excellent interpreters of the cryptic speak...

Just sayin

No beers tonight...well thats not entirely true...1 beer during two movies

E D I T.

BTW return lines require a set of plkers a sharp knife and a 5/8 wrench and maybe one to undo line clamps....thats about it.

 

[texcl]

I had to replace the return lines on mine a couple times, a common issue, easy to fix and not worth taking to a mechanic. These trucks are not very economical if you don't do much of the work yourself. I've had to learn all sorts of stuff since buying mine. I'd suggest going on ebay and buying one of the ford service manuals for your truck, they come on a CD with all volumes including the diesel engine supplement for under $30, they are even done by year and have all sorts of great trouble shooting info, part numbers, torque specs ect....

PS- don't buy a haynes manual, they are worthless, buy the Ford Service manual

 

[TahoeTom]

Just a thought: the steel injection lines require line clamps to hold 3 and 4 lines together in four places. Passenger side has two clamps holding three lines each, drivers side a three and a four line clamp. If any of the clamps are missing the vibration will eventually crack a line resulting in a major leak. The crack will most likely be at the nut on either end of the line. Not the greatest picture, but you can see the line clamps on the drivers side.

 

[OLDBULL8]

To find a cracked injector line. As you say, the valley pan is wet.

Dry it up with paper towels. Slip on some vinyl gloves first.

Fold up in half a couple of paper towels, like make a 4" square of them, place the center of the fold under the IP where the lines come out. If it gets wet in the center, then one or more lines are cracked, very hard to see the crack, but you'll know it's there.

If the IP drive shaft seal is defective, the top of the paper towel fold will get wet first before the center of it.

If a line(s) are cracked at the injector, fuel will pool at that spot, there's kind of an indent where the injector screws in.

If the injector lines do NOT have the clamps on them, you can almost be sure a line(s) is cracked right at the line nut.

It's possible that the line from the filter to the inlet port is leaking, the line has a seal (Olive) there, it's a common place for leaks and/or air intrusion. That seal gets very hard over the years and if the line is disturbed in any way it usually leaks.