Looking at a 90 F250 7.3 IDI, have 2 hours to make decision, please help!

[abacuschicken]

If your thread goes cold, just make a post to bump it back up to the top. Late night riotwarrior may see it and chime in then. But a few beers makes his typing a bit difficult to understand

If you have diesel pooling on top of the engine, if you can run it just watch for where it leaks. Also feel under the injector line nuts on the IP and fittings on the filter head after shutdown.

Hi there,

thanks...it's not running , at least not for reliably or consistently. Acts like it ran out of fuel and dies. Was lucky it got me and the dogs home the other day. Tried to warm it up next morning and it died after about 3 mins running so I had it towed to the shop. I really appreciate the expertise being shared on here and hope I can avoid a rabbit hole on this with the mechanic.

 

[jwalterus]

please..... tell me it has at a minimum 1/2 tank of fuel........ forum search "showerhead".......

it'd suck to put on a lift pump for no reason.....
air intrusion should be crank, fire, 10 seconds running, crank for a while to get fuel again......

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

You should start by buying an eletric fuel pump and some fuel line. Hook it all the way back at the pick up for a FULL tank of fuel. This will eliminate about 20 possible connections for air intrusion, any rusted lines, any bad orings on quick connections, any fuel filter leaks (since it'll pressurize when engine isnt running and you'll se external leak), and eliminate the lift pump. It's the only way i found the parts truck i purchased had air intrusion at the elbow on the sending unit, i could hear it sucking air once every 10 seconds with the pump on and the engine not running. You probably have multiple air intrusion locations and fuel leaks. An electric pump that you can keep powered on the whole time will help you find them. The lift pump will only pump when the engine is rotating, and 30 seconds at a then wait 5 minutes isnt an efficient way to do it.

buy a cheap pump
http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8016S...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

buy a roll of 5/16" fuel hose
http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Inside-D...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

start with a can of diesel, run this pump directly to your fuel filter (cut the metal line to attach it or unthread the hard line fitting and install a barb fitting)

if it starts well and runs well (don't worry about external leaks) then run the fuel hose to the top of the tank sender. If it works there then start connecting it is various places to find where air is being drawn in. It's super easy, you'd only need a wrench, a screw driver and 2 wires to connect it to the battery, or any battery, or a jumper box to run all the time while you are working. I used quick steel to repair my parts truck to just check out the engine and move it around my yard, i'd replace sender if it was actually rusted and regularly driven

 

[abacuschicken]

You should start by buying an eletric fuel pump and some fuel line. Hook it all the way back at the pick up for a FULL tank of fuel. This will eliminate about 20 possible connections for air intrusion, any rusted lines, any bad orings on quick connections, any fuel filter leaks (since it'll pressurize when engine isnt running and you'll se external leak), and eliminate the lift pump. It's the only way i found the parts truck i purchased had air intrusion at the elbow on the sending unit, i could hear it sucking air once every 10 seconds with the pump on and the engine not running. You probably have multiple air intrusion locations and fuel leaks. An electric pump that you can keep powered on the whole time will help you find them. The lift pump will only pump when the engine is rotating, and 30 seconds at a then wait 5 minutes isnt an efficient way to do it.

buy a cheap pump
http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8016S...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

buy a roll of 5/16" fuel hose
http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Inside-D...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

start with a can of diesel, run this pump directly to your fuel filter (cut the metal line to attach it or unthread the hard line fitting and install a barb fitting)

if it starts well and runs well (don't worry about external leaks) then run the fuel hose to the top of the tank sender. If it works there then start connecting it is various places to find where air is being drawn in. It's super easy, you'd only need a wrench, a screw driver and 2 wires to connect it to the battery, or any battery, or a jumper box to run all the time while you are working. I used quick steel to repair my parts truck to just check out the engine and move it around my yard, i'd replace sender if it was actually rusted and regularly driven

Wow, THANK YOU all for the incredibly detailed and time consuming responses. Sincerely! I got it back yesterday and replacing the lift pump did fix the issue of it not running. I can't tell yet if there is another leak though. Too much pooled fuel still around to obscure the smell so can't tell if it is fresh still but I suspect that return kit needs to be done and I am pretty sure, as said...there are multiple fuel leaks around. I am not too sure how comfortable I am with not to much experience delving into the fuel system on my one and only transportation without a in person coach. All the info you guys provided me will help me continue to diagnose the fuel system, learn to do this in time myself, and MAYBE help make sure I don't get jacked by a mechanic. This lift pump deal was too expensive (close to $400 bucks) to have done to not learn this stuff and get tools as you all suggest. I currently don't have a dry place to work on the truck and living in Western WA, thats kinda important. Working on a move in very near future.

 

[OLDBULL8]

This lift pump deal was too expensive (close to $400 bucks) to have done to not learn this stuff and get tools as you all suggest.

OMG for a lift pump that costs $26 to $34 at most any auto parts store. First a knee to the groin, then a $150 at least refund from the mechanic. Towing cost? Make sure it's nice and shinny and that just the damn short rubber hose that goes to it from the steel line was the only thing replaced. The lift pump is on the front lower passenger side of the engine, in case you don't know.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

3 hours of diagnosis, repair and testing at $120 plus the part. Unless there was a tow bill.

 

[abacuschicken]

Wow, THANK YOU all for the incredibly detailed and time consuming responses. Sincerely! I got it back yesterday and replacing the lift pump did fix the issue of it not running. I can't tell yet if there is another leak though. Too much pooled fuel still around to obscure the smell so can't tell if it is fresh still but I suspect that return kit needs to be done and I am pretty sure, as said...there are multiple fuel leaks around. I am not too sure how comfortable I am with not to much experience delving into the fuel system on my one and only transportation without a in person coach. All the info you guys provided me will help me continue to diagnose the fuel system, learn to do this in time myself, and MAYBE help make sure I don't get jacked by a mechanic. This lift pump deal was too expensive (close to $400 bucks) to have done to not learn this stuff and get tools as you all suggest. I currently don't have a dry place to work on the truck and living in Western WA, thats kinda important. Working on a move in very near future.

Sigh, nope not towing, have roadside asst. with USAA, so that was free. $85hr to diagnose, $85hr to replace, $47 for part. ***** part is on Friday afternoon he said it was lift pump, would be $225. He called me Monday am to get it, when I arrived the bill was $380 for a few things I didn't ask for and he didn't get approval on. Dinged me twice for 1/2hr labor, some additional work like unplugging the windshield washer line, moving a rubbing brake line and some other crap. Too pissed to relive this. Grrrrr.

 

[79jasper]

Never pay for that crap. If you didn't tell them to, tell em to pound sand.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[abacuschicken]

But then I am chick stuck with truck and no "reliable mechanic" within reasonable distance at all. Not too many choices here. Lesson learned though, won't let it happen with this shop again. This was a referral from a commercial drive line mechanic from Church. Can't win for losin'!

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

In the world of repairs it's really not that expensive. The part might be cheap but they had to spend time figuring out what's wrong getting the truck to start probably
had to bleed air from the system. I didn't have time mess with one our gas work trucks having a bad fuel pump so I sent it to a local garage. $1250 to replace it. $450 for a ford fuel pump, sure, I'll buy that, it was the 9 hours labor they charged me for dropping the tank I got mad about. I already diagnosed and requested the repair which was an hour of my time. If it's a shop they gotta bill for something. $85 is a resonable hourly rate.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

These trucks are easy to fix, and don't require many special tools or training to work on them. That's why many people get them and do the work on them. But they are 20+ years old and are going to need the work no matter the mileage, age wears on them, and if you're just going to keep sending it to a mechanic it's going to cost you as much as a new truck. They don't charge different labor rates for older trucks. Infact your bad lift pump would have probably been shown in the ecm as a check engine light on a new truck and there wouldn't have been anything but a scan diagnosis charge. Plus newer trucks tend to have parts that don't have 20 years of rust on them and are easier to remove

 

[riotwarrior]

Y was he playing wjth washer when diagnosing non runnuing truck n fixing that was only request.

Point the shop name out in this thread...then...show the shop...then show shop our OB HALL OF SHAME.... then politely ask for refund on non requested work.

Just sayin u was strong armed...so just point out truth to them...if they ante up good if not bless them and thank them and walk away


My guess is yhat there are more here with knowledge and exp than just about anywhere else...in anyshop and could literally walk ya step by step through any issue. If you choose that...its how we roll here.

 

[bbjordan]

Welcome to the forum. You found the right site for IDI know-how. The knowledge and experience of the members here is unsurpassed!

It sucks to have someone take your tools regardless of your gender.

Nice truck!

$400. for a fuel pump change seems kind of steep. That money could have gone towards the purchase of tools. Oh well, we can't change the past. Learn the lesson and move on.

These trucks are old, but they are far from being obsolete. There are a number of modifications and upgrades that can be done that can enhance the performance and reliability of these marvels of mechanical engineering to make them run for another 20 years. One of those upgrades is the electric fuel pump upgrade. I did it and highly recommend it.

Take some time to read through the stickies. There is lots of good information there. Just by reading the stickies, you will probably know more about your truck than the "mechanic" that replaced your lift pump.

To me, there is nothing more empowering than knowing how my vehicle runs and being able to repair it.

 

[OLDBULL8]

3 hours of diagnosis, repair and testing at $120 plus the part. Unless there was a tow bill.

If that mechanic took three hours to diagnose no fuel. He ain't much of a mechanic. Must have been fresh out of school.

That's maybe the problem anymore, computer controlled, fuel pumps in the tank or rail mounted.

This same so called lift pump has been used on cars and trucks for 70 years. Even the design has not changed.

Lift pump, because it Lifts fuel to an Injector Pump.

Fuel pump because it supplies fuel to a carburetor or injectors.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Couldn't it have been partially failing and just air intrusion? I see hundreds of posts about people having trouble with that and not being able to get their truck started from air intrusion issues. These trucks can be a pain to pint point a leak.