Lift pump or IP?

BudLight

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I searched for that last four hours, but couldn't find what my symptom's fit. I'm sure I used the wrong key words, but I tried. I think it's the lift pump.

18 miles into my journey, today I lost power. I had the cruise set at 65 and noticed people were catching/passing me. I checked the speedo and saw that I was down 57ish. Manually hit the throttle and no power, down shifted to 4th and the same. I switched tanks, (both are full) just to see if their would be a change. Nope.
I pulled over and it died, I refired it and it idled normal for 10 to 15 seconds then slowed down and died. Tried it again, same results. Started it again and added throttle pulled up to about 2700 rpm's and slowed down and died.

Rinse lather repeat.
Swapped the fuel filter out and got the same results. I would have installed my new (mechanical) lift pump, but I had "good" clothes on,so I got a tow home from a friend. I don't like waiting hours for people.
The truck still acts the same after cooling down hours later.
So much for the back story.
On to my questions.

To check lift pump pressure, do you install the gauge before or after the fuel filter? I have read both ways, and to do both (using 2 gauges).
I also read that the IP should be able to pull through the lift pump, changing the timing, but prematurely wearing the pump, but still pull fuel from the tanks. I'm running #2 diesel only.

Without checking fuel pressure, was the lift pump bad and I smoked the IP?
Also lift pump pressure specs (from different sources) are between 3-5 to 3-7 (PSI), what is correct for a non electric fuel/lift pump? I might as well check before I start throwing parts at it.

I plan to check lift pump PSI, and go from there. What a day.
 

OLDBULL8

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Your on the right track. Check your crankcase oil level, if the lift pump diphram ruptures fuel can get into the oil.
Do you, have one or two tanks? The shower heads in the tanks start to disintagrate, or even fall off, under a 1/4 tank you have trouble sucking fuel, rubber pieces can get in the FSV (2 tanks) and partiallyu plug them. Any where's from 3 to 7 PSI is good, running at 60MPH , fuel pressure can drop to 1- 2PSI and still be OK at the IP.
 
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SHARPIE

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When I checked mine I just stuck the pressure gauge rubber hoes into a rubber hose on the pressure side and put a few clamps to hold but dont make them too tight as to block off the fuel pressure gauge....You can put it on either side as long as its the pressure side.
 

BudLight

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So I checked the pressure, after the fuel filter, and it is about 7/8 psi and constant.

Couple questions.
What do you think went wrong in the IP? o-rings, lips seals?
Truck was parked for 9 years, why, I do not know. Just turned 51,000 original miles. 99% sure of this.
I have only put 700 miles total, 400 towing (less than 7000#) on it, since I got it.

In the Chilton manual, yes, I know they suck, states, "Also, do not wash or steam clean engine while engine is running. Serious damage to injection pump could occur."
What could you hurt on an IP?
I know what water could damage on a hot engine, but :dunno
The night before I did a quick rinse with my pressure washer, dead cold engine, basic bug removal from the radiator. Ran fine when I moved it around and parked it later on.

I don't think the IP is mechanically bad, or worn out, so should I try to reseal it? I own old stuff so I can fix it myself.
One thing that bothers me is the tag on the IP.
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Washed out pic, sorry but stamped "reman".
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Makes it look like it has been replaced already. I know what the smart thing to do, but being broke, should I try the cheep thing?
Finally, just to verify, it's "typ4" or "Agnem" for a baby moose, right? Russ or Mel, I don't remember.
 
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DragRag

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51000 original miles with a remanufactered pump on it? Seems kind of unlikely to me, most likely 151000 miles. If you have strong fuel pressure like you are saying, and clean filter, you probably have an injection pump problem.
 

icanfixall

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I'm thinking along the lines of the injection pump is shot too. If you choose to install another pump don't buy from Ebay till you read EVERYTHING in the Hall Of Shame.. There are sellers you don't waht to deal with for posted good reasons. Yes... Mel (Agnem) sells the Moose Pump line of parts and Russ (Typ4) sells the other turbo and injecter parts.
 

BudLight

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Typically, (sp?) how does an injection pump go out / die? I can post more pics of mine, if anyone wants them.

I don't want a turbocookoo, I just want a runner. 1 grand for an IP, and Injectors. I need to re-gear too.
 

sassyrel

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how?? because some rebuilders,,DONT do a thorough rebuild!!!! half baked,,at best...whats unusual,,is that yours already has a rebult ip. if its like a ford reman in this area,,its junk!!! the people,,that were rebuilding ford things,,in this area,,for a number of years,,were good,,then someone else,,took it over,,and the rebuilds were junk.............under warranty,,my bros truck,,had a rebuilt ford ip put on. still wouldnt start right..after a lifter fork broke,,and we redid that mess,, i had a friend of mine redo the pump..he asked,,who the clown was,,that said that was a rebuild!!!!!!! new head,,and some seals, and one spin,,and it was running!!! and no gp's..at 70 degrees!!!! i would NEVER start,,with gp's, at 32!!!!! he ALWAYS, had to plug it in!!! after the ip,,would start on gp's at low temps, every time!!
 

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