License Plate Light?

jaed_43725

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I went to get my truck inspected and it only failed 1 thing, the license plate light. After thinking I could just replace the bulb I ended having to replace the whole housing. I am pretty sure its not factory as I ended up using a universal license plate light from Advanced Auto http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...151/17190412-P?searchTerm=license+plate+lamps

And after hooking it up it still doesnt work. I dont remember it ever working actually. But what I need to know is what does the factory license plate light housing look like (Was there one from the factory?), how does it connect and where do I find one (LMC Truck does not list it and neither did Advanced nor Rock Auto)? Are there better options for lighting there? Should I get a 2 wire light housing? LED options?

I seen this and thought it might be cool to use https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...re-led-license-plate-bolt/1685/#/attributes/1

If anyone can just take a pic of their factory setup that would be a great help.
 

Waystro

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Here's the factory light from a 86

The 85 the Po just spiced in a cheapo light.
 

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gandalf

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A license plate light should be a real simple thing. I don't see anything too complicated about it.

There are two things I'd check, after replacing the bulb and/or the housing. 1) Is the light getting power? ie:is there power reaching the unit? 2) check the ground. If it's a single wire unit then it must be ground directly at the unit, perhaps through a mounting screw. If it's a 2 wire unit then it's grounded at the far end of the second wire.

When checking that the unit is receiving power, be sure to turn the lights on, so that you know it should be receiving power.
 

jaed_43725

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Part # 36-4505 at LMC

Interesting. It's the exact same thing I have. Although in the notes it says it's for the replacement bumper. I'm gonna get a test light and see if I can figure it out. If not then to the shop it goes. I'm not good at the electronics at all.
 

The Warden

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Interesting. It's the exact same thing I have. Although in the notes it says it's for the replacement bumper. I'm gonna get a test light and see if I can figure it out. If not then to the shop it goes. I'm not good at the electronics at all.
For what it's worth, I have the same assembly on my truck. I don't know why LMC lists it as being for a replacement bumper, because my housings have OEM Ford part numbers. I've seen them in painted silver, painted black, and chrome...I used to have painted silver, and snagged a chrome set from an Exploder that was being parted out.

With that having been said, you don't NEED the OEM assembly if an aftermarket one fits and lights up the license plate sufficiently. If the LED setup you linked to in your first post would work better, you can go that way, although I think the threaded part is much smaller than the hole in your bumper (not 100% certain, though). Whatever works easiest, really.

As to why it isn't lighting up...just to cover all bases, are your other running lights operating normally? If not, it could be as simple as a blown fuse. If the other lights are working as they should, then you either have a bad ground, a bad socket, or the wire got cut. Especially if you launch boats and the bumper might have been immersed in water, the terminals in the socket could be corroded to the point where you need a new socket.

I would take a voltmeter and see if you have 12 volts on the positive side of the socket, and continuity to the frame on the ground side of the socket, and go from there.

Hope this helps some..good luck!
 

crash-harris

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Just for future reference, to replace the bulbs on the factory teardrop license, you have to reach inside/behind the bumper and twist the plug/connector and it will drop out. If the new one isn't working, just tap the wire for the other one as a power source.
 

dunk

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Part # 36-4505 at LMC

That looks like the same junky generic replacement he already has that won't fit properly. I've been down this road before with several vehicles. If you have a Ford bumper just get the Ford outside lens/reflector pieces and a replacement harness if need be. Get a 5 SMD LED for each one so they never burn out and the government goons on road tax duty can't claim you were recklessly endangering the children with a bunt out or "too dim" license plate bulb. This is bare minimum, wouldn't hurt to put 2x or 4x of those bolts with the threaded through LED to really make it shine, and as much additional lighting as you can fit while not shining any white light directly aft. You might consider at least 8ga wire on the long run and a relay to minimize voltage drop and resultant loss of pure unadulterated candlepower. Also suggest cleaning, polishing, and waxing your license plate. In the People's Republik of NJ your license plate lighting should be blinding those behind you from the reflection, giving epileptics seizures as you drive past, and starting brush fires at random from the intense heat coming off it.

To accomplish this, you will need at minimum:
2x LMC PN 47-4247
1x LMC PN 47-4255
2x hipoparts.com PN 194-5SMD-W
 

jaed_43725

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Just for future reference, to replace the bulbs on the factory teardrop license, you have to reach inside/behind the bumper and twist the plug/connector and it will drop out. If the new one isn't working, just tap the wire for the other one as a power source.

Good to know for my next truck. This truck the factory stuff is long gone by PO.
 

jaed_43725

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A license plate light should be a real simple thing. I don't see anything too complicated about it.

There are two things I'd check, after replacing the bulb and/or the housing. 1) Is the light getting power? ie:is there power reaching the unit? 2) check the ground. If it's a single wire unit then it must be ground directly at the unit, perhaps through a mounting screw. If it's a 2 wire unit then it's grounded at the far end of the second wire.

When checking that the unit is receiving power, be sure to turn the lights on, so that you know it should be receiving power.

1. As far as I know it should be. I had the truck running and the lights turned on.
2. Ground is good.
3. I am going to get a test light or multimeter to see what I can come up with. I wont be able to get to it until Saturday though.
 

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