Electrical Advice - Restoring Tail Lights to Factory Wiring

[bumblinstumblin]

Hey Ya’ll

I'm looking to tap into the collective wisdom. I drive an '84 F250 with a 7.3L swapped in for the 6.9L. The truck came with a dealer-mounted trailer harness. I recently had a new bumper put on the truck and realized the wires backing up the harness were dry-rotted and needed to go. There weren’t many posts on the subject, but from what I could find, the part (D4AB-14A459-JB) was discontinued. I decided to wire everything back to factory.

It took a bit of doing, but I’ve got turn signals, back-up lamps, and taillights all working. The wiring for my stoplamp switch is all jacked up because the previous owner did a ham-****** install of an aftermarket cruise control on top of the dealer-mounted trailer harness. I do not have 12V on the LG-R wire coming from the fusebox, and I do not have 12V at fuse #1 (stop / hazard lamps, speed control).

That’s a long-winded way of getting to my question: Would it be possible to run 12V from the battery directly into the fusebox at position #1, or to run a wire directly from the battery to the LG-R wire’s position on the stoplamp switch with a 15A fuse in-line?

Bonus question: I also have a Kelsay-Hayes hydraulic brake controller wired into the stoplamp switch. I assumed that meant the stoplamp triggered the controller. But, during troubleshooting, I pulled the wiring harness off of my stoplamp switch, and the Kelsay-Hayes still lit up when I pressed the brakes. Is it possible that the controller was triggering my brake lights instead of the stoplamp switch?

Thoughts? Suggestions?

I’m primarily going off of Gary’s wiring diagrams, but am cross-referencing with a Haynes service manual.

 

[Clb]

First, ascertain why no power into those 2 fuses...
If the actual fuse holder is not hot, then it's in the fuseblock.
We go from there.

Godspeed with prior owners and electrical issues.

 

[bumblinstumblin]

The fuse holder isn't hot, and power comes from the ignition switch. I believe it should be 12V all the time. I do not want to have to mess with / replace the ignition switch or the directional, horn, and hazard switch if I can help it.

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[IDIBOBS]

doing anything but putting it back to stock is going to be just as messed up as the previous guy. I’d get stock power back to the fuse what ever that takes. then I’d pull all the rotted wires out from the back all the way to the connections at the drivers side fire wall and replace with new bigger better wires in a good fiber loom all the way to the lights and 7way. Bare crimp connectors, solder and marine shrink wrap.